Eastwood Versus POR15

Hi Everyone!

FINALLY starting the first stage of reassembly, painting the frame. I'm tired of not finding someone to blast the frame, so I'm going to do it myself in the driveway.

Once I get it "clean" (no old flaking paint, it's not very rusty so I'm looking for a good surface for the paint/coating to stick) I will be putting it back in the garage and starting the process with a metal prep and paint/coating/topcoat as needed. This truck will get plenty of use, so I want to protect it as much as possible.

I've heard good about Eastwood products as well as POR15, so I'm looking to make a decision between the two. Thoughts?

Thanks again to all who reply, this forum has great posts and really enjoy reading about others' rides!

Take Care,
KS in KCK

If you’re blasting you shouldn’t need any special “prep” product, paint will stick to the rough texture left from blasting.

I don’t have any experience with the air catalyzed coatings like por15, there is another air catalyzed coating called Rust bullet though.

I’m a fan of epoxy paint personally, it sticks to bare steel and is moderately tough for the cost.

Ive never had the desire to pay that high price for some Por 15 to even test it....
Is Por15 just a way over $$$ priced gimmick? I read somewhere that Rustoleum Semi Gloss Black is better and they are basically the same ingredients. Dont know if that's really true or not. Alkyd enamel

I have frames, axles, springs etc painted with rustoleum semi gloss black 30 years ago that have held up great.

Im sure there's people that think por15 is a gift from god... ?

If you are blasting the frame, I'd recommend going with a 2k product.

I used Tamco chassis black on my 79's frame and am pleased. It has gone up in price since 2019 (what hasn't), but currently $150 for 1.25 gallons sprayable. I looked and looks like POR-15 is $220 for a gallon, and that does not include all their "special" prep stuff.

With a good blasted surface, some maroon scotchbrite sto scuff it, then wipe with wax and grease remover and spray.

Here is my 79 frame sprayed with Tamco chassis black.

I know 2 guys who make a living sandblasting and spraying semi trailer frames. Both use POR15 and both told me to use it as a primer and not as some miracle sealant paint. They make a top coat to go over it (it gets so hard no paint will stick to it plus it is very UV sensitive (will turn white/chalky if exposed to sun).

I have used this stuff since it was a back page ad in a cheap car or club magazine. What Restomotive Labs (POR15) used to say to do was to paint it with POR15 and when it tacked up, mist a self etching primer over it and then you can paint (to that). Did it that way alot too. And fwiw.....I would brush it on and not spray it - its beyond toxic and you dont want it sticking to your lungs the way it attaches itself to your skin.

I had mine blasted and powder coated - if it was just me doing it again, I'd spray it in epoxy primer (2-3 coats) then use a truck and tractor enamel or maybe Rinoliner, etc (which is what I did with my fuel tanks).

Thanks for the replies! I have only used POR15 on the inside of a door on one of my 1980 Starfires, so I really don't have much of a preference one way or another.

I completely forgot about Rustoleum, I used their stuff on the chassis/cage of a race car and the last time I checked in on it the paint still looked OK (will have to be repainted after a lot of changes are made). I am definitely going to look into the Rhinoliner, as it will see it's share of salty roads.

I really appreciate the advice, having people that can give first-hand experiences really helps!

Take Care,
KS in KCK

IMHO POR 15 is a smoke and mirrors thing. It's a reboxed old system,the distract you with the hype so you don't see the science. Read POR 15 directions wash with their water based cleaner, prep with their phosphoric acid wash,protect with their magic paint. Now look at an old 3 part system, wash with water based cleaner,prep with phosphoric acid wash(OSPHO) protect with,whatever paint. The clean surface and the phosphoric acid are the magic,and the phosphoric acid is the science it neutralizes rust and turns it into a stable surface you can paint over. POR 15 has everyone looking at the magic paint so no one notices the acid wash.All paint companies used to have some form of acid wash.My opinion would be purple power or simple green,ospho sprayed from a garden sprayer and a top coat of rustoleum right over the Ospho.

I’ve used POR 15 maybe 5-6 times over the years… it worked good for small rusted areas, like battery trays, etc..
I wouldn’t even consider using it on an entire frame, there are way better and less expensive paint options available.

I've used POR-15 many many many times over the years. It has some good uses, but it is not a miracle paint. You definitely don't need all their prep products for a good result. I wouldn't coat an entire frame with it, there are better and cheaper options that don't include any type of special "rust" coating. POR-15 is definitely a different type of product than Rustoleum though and for many of it's uses, it is a far more durable product than Rustoleum.

A while back, I watched a YouTube video of a rather well executed test that compared all the various "rust coating" products. I'll try to find it and post it. It compared 8 or so brands and tested them for adhesion, chemical resistance, scratch and chip resistance, salt spray resistance and also exposed them to the outdoor elements for a year or so. No one brand proved itself to be a miracle paint (not even the Bill Hirsch "Miracle Paint") but some brands were better at certain things than others. I can't recall which one came out on top overall, but it was not POR-15.

I'm pretty sure it was this video:

I'm pretty sure God gave us POR 15. Mikey likes it.