What have you done to your square lately??
- Thread starter Old77
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JD Miller
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- 1981
- Truck Model
- K20 silverado
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- 350
I wish I could find a deal on a snow plow or free. I see junk for sale round here local "Gomer gold digger" wants more $$$ than a new plow would cost
77Dmax
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- vt
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- Joe
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- 1977
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- c20
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- 6.6
I wish I could find a deal on a snow plow or free. I see junk for sale round here local "Gomer gold digger" wants more $$$ than a new plow would cost
I have some junk I bought 10ish years ago. I cranked the welder up and twisted some wires together..
WFarm
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- Paul
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- 454
Enjoyed a little off roading today with the wife.
Was horrified to discover DIRT in my tires afterwards! Gotta get that cleaned up!
Was horrified to discover DIRT in my tires afterwards! Gotta get that cleaned up!
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Normmus
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- Norm
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- 1977
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- K10
- Engine Size
- 350
Finally got around to installing the exhaust on the K10, consisting of Flowtech headers and a Thrush dual exhaust kit that I bought a couple years ago and had in storage till now. The headers fit great, the exhaust not so much, but after some cutting/welding/bending, it's on. I can't comment on the sound just yet but I am sure it is an improvement over the leaky straight pipe. It's 20 below outside right now, gonna wait for some better weather to go for a drive. Next, is to fix the fuel sender wiring, speedometer cable, and make sure the choke is working properly (recently converted from divorced to electric).
newguy11
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- 1972-1987
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- 305/350
Sometimes we have to do repairs to get by. my truck doesn’t earn me money and it’s the 3rd vehicle so I can take my time and actually enjoy wrenching.
Iv fixed a lot of things in the cold and rain, I’m glad I seldom have to do that anymore
I remember when I was in my teens I broke off about every bolt I ever touched.. no heat, no penetration oil, no patients
ChuckN
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- Chad
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- 1981
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- C10
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- 350
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Tonight, I set out all the various pieces of the non a/c conversion that were given to me. Just about all of the metal is shot or rusted heavily.
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I’m not so sure these things given to me are going to be super helpful. The non a/c controls look like they have a different plug, and the light bulb configuration is different. One has decent door flaps, but all of the foam gaskets (I’m assuming they had some at one point) are gone. Tons of surface rust. Of the two boxes, only one of the four brackets that hold the heater core is not rotten.
I’ll need all new cables, apparently. This is quickly becoming a project to be shelved and to collect parts along the way. LMC does have some of the parts if I want to pay with my left kidney. Hmm.
Not complaining- very thankful honestly- just farther away than I thought I was.
Does anyone know if I’ll be able to harness any parts from the A/C box to repurpose? Or are they all completely different?
I’ll look up some threads.
Rustisbest
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- Matt
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Just throwing it out there but I cheated and used the fiberglass cover that's made to bolt right in place of the AC box. Ordered it from classicindustries but I think the company is Acdelete.com or something like that.
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ChuckN
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- 350
Cool! Good idea. Might take your idea on that.
The challenge that I have is that the inner workings of the heater box itself (air doors, brackets, foam seals etc) are all completely shot, at least for the most part- so I’m looking into what’s available to refurbish this thing. It’s a mess.
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I found a guy online that does rebuild these for 300 or so plus your core, so I might give him a jingle- he also sells some internal parts. So, then I can make an educated decision about how to go forward.
ChuckN
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Double post- disregard
Rustisbest
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- 377
This just uses all the original AC heater core and blower motor that you have already if its in good condition. The non AC box is more compact and does look better though.
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- Larry
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- 1981
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- 250 6 cylinder
Weather cooperated, dry and 38 degrees, so I put in my new distributor cap, rotor, HEI coil in cap, and nice blue plug wires.
Everything from RockAuto. Maybe I will get my picture on a magnet someday. All parts appear to be good quality.
I had previously installed a cap, rotor and plugs 10 years ago when truck was acquired, but kept the red MSD plug wires. changed everything except the plugs, they were each removed and cleaned, all 6 looked great.
Not sure how the plug wires should be dressed, but this is my best effort after playing around for 10 minutes:
Further internet searching is required to see if there is a better layout.
Best news, the truck started right up with a bit of choke and runs fine. Might get to drive it a few more weeks.
Next on to rear brake inspection and parts roundup.
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Everything from RockAuto. Maybe I will get my picture on a magnet someday. All parts appear to be good quality.
You must be registered for see images attach
I had previously installed a cap, rotor and plugs 10 years ago when truck was acquired, but kept the red MSD plug wires. changed everything except the plugs, they were each removed and cleaned, all 6 looked great.
Not sure how the plug wires should be dressed, but this is my best effort after playing around for 10 minutes:
You must be registered for see images attach
Further internet searching is required to see if there is a better layout.
Best news, the truck started right up with a bit of choke and runs fine. Might get to drive it a few more weeks.
Next on to rear brake inspection and parts roundup.
ChuckN
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- 1981
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- Engine Size
- 350
Well, shoot. Just realized another thing. Well, I guess in a way I already had- with the non-a/c box, there is no more front vents. At all. I knew that I would need a new bezel that would eliminate those vents, but I was looking at my donor dash pad from a non a/c truck, and there’s no vents in the front of that trim panel EITHER. Guess after this it’s just heat, defroster, or nuthin’.
When you kept your old a/c stuff, are the front vents still viable to get some front airflow, or by default does all that get disabled? My vacuum ball is disconnected by previous owner. Guess maybe I wouldn’t miss it.
Rustisbest
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- Engine Size
- 377
Yeah everything in the cab stayed the same. More or less just deleting the evap box and drier under the hood. Any unused wires outside got cut, heatshrink and taped back in the harness.
I did have to drill the replacement peice for the mounting holes and make my own hole for the resistor. Sealed to the firewall with butyl rope but I've seen some use rubber weatherstripping or silicone caulk. Not too bad of a job, I would like to clean up and hide all the wiring a little more though.
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