What have you done to your square lately??

Truck82 said:

Were the tires you found new?
Do you know of anyone who make a 16.5 tire that’s affordable?

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Powerking super highway II in 9.50 r16.5

WFarm said:

It may be just me, but I like the fasteners to stand out. Unless it’s a special fastener I’ll stop by Valley Fastener and get stainless replacements. Not factory correct, but love the look!

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I did the reverse on my differential when I put the chrome cover on it. All the bolts were painted black.

Fixed a droopy headlight by replacing the plastic doo dad behind the adjuster. Black (old one) was internally stripped and cracked.

Started a brake job today, the right side looked decent but this is the left…
Advice that Iv been giving myself for years is to buy everything and more than you need when it comes to brake jobs.
The brakes take such abuse that when you get in there you don’t want to be caught with your pants down.

Slowly getting this thing back together. Still one headlight shy of wrapping up the front end. Started with the bumper brackets for a chrome sport bumper. I got a new to me (never installed) aftermarket radio installed.

newguy11 said:

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Started a brake job today, the right side looked decent but this is the left…
Advice that Iv been giving myself for years is to buy everything and more than you need when it comes to brake jobs.
The brakes take such abuse that when you get in there you don’t want to be caught with your pants down.

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In the past, I've run drums like that with new shoes and everything was fine. Other than having to back off the adjuster if I ever needed to remove the drum again.

*This was on my daily beaters, not customer vehicles, lol*

Ordered some repop tail lights and a manual choke kit for the 75 since it won't stay open, then stuck a camera down the aux tank and it looks clean I couldn't get the camera down the filler neck to check the main tank so I'll have to figure another way to check it, it's got a manual tank selector valve and the click clack pump under the truck came to life(manual pump is gone block off plate installed) fingers crossed the main tanks clean less work for me lol might have to yank it anyway and delete the tank socks and put a filter inline like I run my 83, priced out some reman brake calipers still need to get the brakes situated probably gonna need to replace everything just to be safe think I might have some wheels and tires off my old 78 that's got a hole in the block anyone know if the hubcaps will fit on 16s?

Ajax19 said:

Ordered some repop tail lights and a manual choke kit for the 75 since it won't stay open, then stuck a camera down the aux tank and it looks clean I couldn't get the camera down the filler neck to check the main tank so I'll have to figure another way to check it, it's got a manual tank selector valve and the click clack pump under the truck came to life(manual pump is gone block off plate installed) fingers crossed the main tanks clean less work for me lol might have to yank it anyway and delete the tank socks and put a filter inline like I run my 83, priced out some reman brake calipers still need to get the brakes situated probably gonna need to replace everything just to be safe think I might have some wheels and tires off my old 78 that's got a hole in the block anyone know if the hubcaps will fit on 16s?

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Hubcaps are interchangeable between 16" and 16.5" wheels.

mcarlo86 said:

Hubcaps are interchangeable between 16" and 16.5" wheels.

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Sweet thanks, also happy Thanksgiving to everyone

it is so dark inside the cab of these old rigs, and I could never see the cupholders on the center console of the suburban. One good thing about more modern cars is the little LED that shines down from above to illuminate the console area.

So I added a little LED to provide some ambient light in the console area. The rear defrost switch has a lamp in it, so I tapped power there and it comes on with the headlights. I drilled a hole in the switch bezel to keep from drilling a hole in the metal dash. I did have to shim it out with an additional O ring so the LED body would fit in the bezel cavity. The bezel is angled downward slightly and is nearly centered on the console. It's not as elegant as a light shining from above, but overall, I am pretty happy with it for less than $10 and about 20 minutes of my time.

The light amount is perfect to just let me see the console area on an empty highway or backroad and isnt distracting while driving (sorry no night time pic, maybe I'll add one later).

gmbellew said:

it is so dark inside the cab of these old rigs, and I could never see the cupholders on the center console of the suburban. One good thing about more modern cars is the little LED that shines down from above to illuminate the console area.

So I added a little LED to provide some ambient light in the console area. The rear defrost switch has a lamp in it, so I tapped power there and it comes on with the headlights. I drilled a hole in the switch bezel to keep from drilling a hole in the metal dash. I did have to shim it out with an additional O ring so the LED body would fit in the bezel cavity. The bezel is angled downward slightly and is nearly centered on the console. It's not as elegant as a light shining from above, but overall, I am pretty happy with it for less than $10 and about 20 minutes of my time.

The light amount is perfect to just let me see the console area on an empty highway or backroad and isnt distracting while driving (sorry no night time pic, maybe I'll add one later).

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Nice idea! That reminds me of the little amber light by the dome light in 30 series John Deere tractors like 4430’s that gave some (emphasis on some) light to supposedly help see the transmission shift levers at night.

mcarlo86 said:

Nice idea! That reminds me of the little amber light by the dome light in 30 series John Deere tractors like 4430’s that gave some (emphasis on some) light to supposedly help see the transmission shift levers at night.

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Our old JCB's had a similar feature. There was a switch on the RH dome light that would turn on a nice, dim, aqua-blue light that would cast a pleasant light down on all the controls at night.

Checked the oil

Checked the oil!

Wife took pity on me today and gave me an early Christmas gift, a boroscope so I could find those ridiculously hard to see stamping and casting numbers on my engine. Had tried several times but eventually admitted defeat.

Tool worked great! From todays searching here is what I have found:

Stamped engine Code and VIN info:

CPD - 1971 365 hp LS-5 454 from Chevelle or Monte Carlo with 4-speed.

11B228294 - Chevrolet Division, 1971, Baltimore assembly plant. The 228294 is the partial VIN of the car this engine was originally built with.

Block Casting #:

3963512 - this casting was used for both 427 and 454 big blocks. Could be 2 or 4 bolt mains. I’ll find out which one day.lol

Exhaust manifold casting numbers: 3994045 (LH side). Big block Police manifolds. From what I read the only real difference is an increase in nickel to add strength and heat resistance as cop cars idle a lot and things get hot under the hood.

Didn’t pull a valve cover to check head casting info, but I posted earlier about that vintage Weiand intake that’s for the large rectangular port heads.