Recommendations while tearing down for valve job?

TX87R10 · Nov 8, 2024

Hello -

We are heading out of town for a couple of days and renting a car so I figured what better time to pull the heads on the square and drop them off at the machine shop for a valve job.

I was thinking to go ahead and do the following -

1. Remove valve covers, clean, paint
2. Remove both heads with engine still in truck
3. Purchase and replace head gaskets and valve gaskets

While the heads are at the shop should I just go ahead and replace the valve springs? Is there anything else I should have them do at the machine shop or anything I should do while getting that deep in to the motor?

I've got a Haynes manual and I'll watch a bunch of videos ahead of time to prepare but if there is anything I can do while in there to maximize the time and effort of removing the heads I'm all for it.

Truck82 · Nov 8, 2024

TX87R10 said:
Hello -

We are heading out of town for a couple of days and renting a car so I figured what better time to pull the heads on the square and drop them off at the machine shop for a valve job.

I was thinking to go ahead and do the following -

1. Remove valve covers, clean, paint
2. Remove both heads with engine still in truck
3. Purchase and replace head gaskets and valve gaskets

While the heads are at the shop should I just go ahead and replace the valve springs? Is there anything else I should have them do at the machine shop or anything I should do while getting that deep in to the motor?

I've got a Haynes manual and I'll watch a bunch of videos ahead of time to prepare but if there is anything I can do while in there to maximize the time and effort of removing the heads I'm all for it.

I would replace the springs while you’re in there. How much is the shop doing? I would suggest having the valve guides and seats replaced also (unless you have the 882 heads that have everything integrated like I do than that could cost a lot to get them all drilled out and fit with replaceable ones )
Just give it a good cleaning and it’ll work like a top!
Good luck with your build!

TX87R10 · Nov 9, 2024

Truck82 said:
I would replace the springs while you’re in there. How much is the shop doing? I would suggest having the valve guides and seats replaced also (unless you have the 882 heads that have everything integrated like I do than that could cost a lot to get them all drilled out and fit with replaceable ones )
Just give it a good cleaning and it’ll work like a top!
Good luck with your build!

They quoted $500 for the valve job which I think is the guides and seats. I didn't check the price but when I rebuilt my '66 mustang I think it was $25 for the springs so seems like a no brainier

ali_c20 · Nov 9, 2024

Do as much as possible within your $ limit when your in there. Check lifters, pushrods and all the parts that are accessible without heads and intake. If something fails or wears and you have to pull the heads again...no bueno. Ask me how I know.

Ricko1966 · Nov 9, 2024

TX87R10 said:
They quoted $500 for the valve job which I think is the guides and seats. I didn't check the price but when I rebuilt my '66 mustang I think it was $25 for the springs so seems like a no brainier

Seats are very rarely replaced in a valve job,and cost prohibitive,your old seats are cut or ground,depending on the machine shop,you're old valves are cut or ground and the stems are shortened to correct installed height. If you need 16 seats installed,spend the money on new better heads.If you are going to a reputable machine shop, leave what is necessary to their discretion,they have way more experience than 99% of people on this forum. I've never see a problem with factory GM springs,but you might with the quality of replacement parts these days. If you were going with more cam I'd recommend springs,a valve job only,I wouldn't. I guarantee you,the shop I worked at we did thousands and thousands of heads,in the time I was there, we reused factory springs on 90 percent if not more .Have your machine shop get you a headset, they will use the valve seals,you will use all the other gaskets. A lot of times if I'm doing a valve job,I'll do rings, rod bearings and a timing set at the same time,kind of a budget rebuild,these engines will go a long,long time trouble free.

TX87R10 · Nov 9, 2024

Ricko1966 said:
Seats are very rarely replaced in a valve job,and cost prohibitive,your old seats are cut or ground,depending on the machine shop,you're old valves are cut or ground and the stems are shortened to correct installed height. If you need 16 seats installed,spend the money on new better heads.If you are going to a reputable machine shop, leave what is necessary to their discretion,they have way more experience than 99% of people on this forum. I've never see a problem with factory GM springs,but you might with the quality of replacement parts these days. If you were going with more cam I'd recommend springs,a valve job only,I wouldn't. I guarantee you,the shop I worked at we did thousands and thousands of heads,in the time I was there, we reused factory springs on 90 percent if not more .Have your machine shop get you a headset, they will use the valve seals,you will use all the other gaskets. A lot of times if I'm doing a valve job,I'll do rings, rod bearings and a timing set at the same time,kind of a budget rebuild,these engines will go a long,long time trouble free.

That's the other thing I was thinking lol I've worked in a plant where we assembled torque wrenches and modern springs are **** quality...

Thanks for the advice

DoubleDingo · Nov 9, 2024

All excellent advice, I can't add anything worth while, except maybe reseal the engine while it's torn down that far and replace the timing set. It's not needed, but it can't hurt. With it that far down, you only have three sets of seals left to do, pan gasket set, timing cover set, rear main.

Craig Nedrow · Nov 12, 2024

Like ^^^^^ those guys said. If you are in doute find the specs for the cam and have the shop check the PSI at the installed height of the springs. I always do, but I have access to a spring tester. Do pretty much what Ricko suggests. The head man has all the tools to measure and test the heads. If they are a reputable shop, you will get a nice clean shiny head set up for your cam, probably with the stock springs.

77Dmax · Nov 13, 2024

Having done this job several times before, I recommend pulling the motor. It's only a few more bolts, and working bent over the fenders/cowl is such a PITA.

DoubleDingo · Nov 13, 2024

77Dmax said:
Having done this job several times before, I recommend pulling the motor. It's only a few more bolts, and working bent over the fenders/cowl is such a PITA.

I agree. And torquing the head bolts is much easier standing on the ground than straddling the engine under the hood.

TX87R10 · Nov 23, 2024

Any idea what I am looking at here? Appears to be a part replaced but the old one not removed or something.

You must be registered for see images attach

TX87R10 · Nov 23, 2024

Yep thats exactly what it was.

Good news and bad news found some sludge blocking the oil return. Cleaned everything up ran some ATF for an hour and then changed oil we looking pretty good no smoke no misfires.

Not going to pull the heads for now. I am running rich for some reason still but I'll take that for now.

Recommendations while tearing down for valve job?

TX87R10

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