Carb help? (With pictures)

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Vann

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Location
Georgia
First Name
Vann
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
350
Hey guys. I have been given an 84 k10 a while back, and I’m starting to try and get this thing road ready. It runs great when it gets going, I just can’t ever get it to crank without turning it over and over or using starter fluid? I think it’s a choke issue but I have no idea when it comes to carbs. I know I can push something that kinda locks in to place on the carb side while it’s running and it brings the idle down some. I’ve included pics of all 3 side so that if there’s something glaring obviously wrong someone can point it out, thanks so much.
 

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ali_c20

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Alexander
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1974, 1979
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Engine Size
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Welcome from Austria. When starting with the engine cold the choke plate should be closed. Step on the accelerator before cranking and the choke plate should close.
As soon as the engines fire up the choke plate is opened a little by the vacuum pull of. It runs on higher rpm for faster engine warm up. The electric heated spring opens the choke plate slowly till full open and idle speed goes to normal. If you step a little on the accelerator it should go to idle before the choke plate is fully open.
Search youtube, there many vids for Quadrajets.
 

Vann

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Georgia
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Vann
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
350
Okay great this helps
 

Ricko1966

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c20
Engine Size
350
Okay cranks and cranks,no start unless starter fluid. First thing I'd check, is hold the choke plate open with your fingers( engine off) snap the throttle open with one hand,while looking down the throat of the carb. You should see a squirt of fuel,just like a squirt gun 1 down each throat. That's the accelerator pump,if you are not getting that shot you are going to have a rough time getting it to start. Post back so we can get into that further if it doesn't work. Second thing when you step on the pedal once,engine cold, the choke plate should close. Check those 2 things and post back.
 
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Ricko1966

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Engine Size
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Looks like a bunch of the linkages on the pass side are not hooked up or missing. Might be holding things in the wrong spots and/or jamming up other parts.
Good eyes. I was concentrating on the written description of symptoms. The rear vacuum break is disconnected NBD, it should be, and will require removal of 2 screws on the side to maneuver it to hook it back up. The secondary air valve door is also not connected,which may cause a bog on hard acceleration due to air valve opening too soon. Neither should be giving a hard start cured by adding starting fluid.
 
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