Thread sealant on header bolts?

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Truck82

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Just wanted to know what y’all do when installing headers.
Thread sealant on bolts or not?
I’ve heard both yes and know and want your opinion and experience.
Thank you all in advance!
 

Truck82

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seal 'em from what?

Ive put grease or anti seize on 'em to keep from rusting stuck and breakin' off when removal time comes
I thought they might be connected with an oil passage? Maybe I’m stupid but a bolt on the back side of my manifold is leaking oil. I’m swapping the stock manifolds out for long tube headers and didn’t want any more leaks
 

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Always anti-seize on the bolts.

Ways to keep them tight:
Frequent retorque
Bolts that have cam locks
Washers with fold over tabs
Drill the bolt heads and use lock wire

Do not use lock washers!
 

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Valve cover leak or someone ram rodded too long of a bolt in possibly, but I doubt that would hit oil.
 

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Valve cover leak or someone ram rodded too long of a bolt in possibly, but I doubt that would hit oil.
I just replaced the valve covers and gasket so I think I can rule that one out. Could still be possible. It’s happened to me before.
 

PrairieDrifter

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I just replaced the valve covers and gasket so I think I can rule that one out. Could still be possible. It’s happened to me before.
Shouldn't be intake or oil press sending unit. Those usually run on the bottom surface of the head. Either residual or valve cover.
 

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I just replaced the valve covers and gasket so I think I can rule that one out. Could still be possible. It’s happened to me before.
If your valve covers are beat up with a deformed edge, they'll still leak after replacing the gaskets. Just something to consider.
 

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I highly recommend studs, ARP makes the best kits I did stainless on the 572, and yes liberal Permatex anti seize or as I used ARP torque lube…
 

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Guess I'm in the minority, because all I do is run a thread chaser into the header bolt holes, add a drop of light oil to the bolt threads, and torque the bolts to 25-30 lb/ft, assuming I can get a socket on them. As for occasional re-tightening, that may be a good idea, but I've only done it after a few hours of running the engine. Good quality gaskets are key, as well as making sure the header port and gasket hole shapes are a good match for the exhaust ports. I can't remember the last time I had a header gasket leak, at the cylinder heads or collectors. BTW, soft copper or aluminum collector gaskets are my favorite.

Edit: I kinda like the ARP stud idea suggested above.:)
 
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Truck82

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If your valve covers are beat up with a deformed edge, they'll still leak after replacing the gaskets. Just something to consider.
Brand new covers. Still checked the edges from habit and were perfectly straight.
 

Truck82

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What valve covers did you use,pic. Yes I'm serious.
The new chrome ones are from LMC. Cheapest pair out there but not bad quality for 30 bucks.
 

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The new chrome ones are from LMC. Cheapest pair out there but not bad quality for 30 bucks.
On cheap chromes I've never had luck unless I take the right angle die grinder th the sealing surface on the valve cover to rough it up good,then I glue my valve cover gasket to the valve cover it's self with 3m super weather strip adhesive and use grease on the other side of the gasket where it meets the head. Those valve covers should have spreaders on the retainer bolts,do you have them? You are missing 1 hole on the valve covers so how do you have them installed. Hole on PS side valve cover should go to pcv breather,hole in other valve cover should go to pcv valve. If you plugged either of those holes,you are going to have leaks,if that breather is plugged you are going to have leaks. If you plugged them both you are going to have big leaks. You will have to fill through the vent or the pcv hole. Unless you have an early manifold on your truck.
 
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