HELP! My truck won’t start!

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Truck82

Truck82

Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2024
Posts
75
Reaction score
147
Location
Alderton
First Name
Christopher
Truck Year
1982
Truck Model
c20
Engine Size
350
So… my truck won’t start. I did a tune up today (cap, rotor, spark plugs. Didn’t mess with the carburetor because it won’t start) put everything back together and it doesn’t want to fire. Cranks over and back fires through the carburetor but won’t start up. I am not experienced in troubleshooting and know nothing about electrical issues. Any help, advice, or possibilities would be greatly appreciated!
 
legopnuematic

legopnuematic

Licensed Junk Dealer
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2016
Posts
2,485
Reaction score
6,402
Location
MO
First Name
Spencer
Truck Year
1971, 1̶9̶7̶4, 1976, 1979,1̶9̶8̶5, 2002
Truck Model
Dart Swinger, Sierra 10, C10 Cheyenne, C10 Big Ten, Silverado 10, Ram 2500
Engine Size
225/6, 350 c.i., 350 c.i., 5.9l Cummins
First is you did put the/a rotor back on before the cap (I've done it plenty of times)?

Second I would inspect the connections at the cap. I've had trouble before with them pushing the terminals either out of the plug or up into the cap and not making connection or an intermittent connection.

Carbon button in place under the coil?

I assume it was running before the tuneup?
 
Truck82

Truck82

Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2024
Posts
75
Reaction score
147
Location
Alderton
First Name
Christopher
Truck Year
1982
Truck Model
c20
Engine Size
350
The truck ran great before the tune up.

Yes the rotor was put on before the cap.
(I’m going to assume I put it on correctly)

Carbon button? Not sure what this is, I’ll be honest. Is the picture attached the carbon button? If so, yes it’s in but if its installed correctly I don’t know.

I will check the connections and make sure the spark plug wires are in the right order (for the 10th time)

Honestly I’m kind of mad about the whole thing. I was being cheap and bought the cheapest parts I could find. When they showed up in the mail they looked like toys and not something I would want on my truck. So maybe it’s the parts just not working? Sorry to drag you into my personal problems :D

Thanks for the tips

You must be registered for see images attach
 
Truck82

Truck82

Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2024
Posts
75
Reaction score
147
Location
Alderton
First Name
Christopher
Truck Year
1982
Truck Model
c20
Engine Size
350
Dmack said:
Double check your firing order. Make sure you didn't switch some wires or move the whole set over a terminal.
Click to expand...
I’m thinking I might have moved them over a terminal. Is there any way I can check which one the no. 1 cylinder should be on without removing the valve cover to look at when the valves are closed?
 
Dmack

Dmack

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 13, 2019
Posts
333
Reaction score
436
Location
Central OR
First Name
Dave
Truck Year
1983
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
350
Pull the cylinder 1 plug, put your thumb over the hole and bump it over until the compression bumps your thumb off. Should be #1 coming up on the compression stroke. Look at your timing mark and see if it is close to tdc. If you are off a terminal on the cap, that would put the mark 45 degrees off TDC instead.
 
Dmack

Dmack

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 13, 2019
Posts
333
Reaction score
436
Location
Central OR
First Name
Dave
Truck Year
1983
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
350
Another option is to turn it over until the timing mark is at tdc. Pull the cap and the rotor should point to either #1 or 180 degrees off. If not, you are off.
 
Truck82

Truck82

Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2024
Posts
75
Reaction score
147
Location
Alderton
First Name
Christopher
Truck Year
1982
Truck Model
c20
Engine Size
350
I though I’d give y’all an update. I had the no. 1 spark plug in the wrong place and so obviously every other one was out of place making it not run. My problem is that I’m still 180 out even with the rotor in the right place. I’ve doubled checked everything and it’s all correct. I’ve just decided I’m fine with that as it is running great and I’ll just have to time it off the companion cylinder.
Thank you everyone for the help!
 
R

Robert Bare

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 13, 2020
Posts
107
Reaction score
165
Location
MT
First Name
Robert
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
k20
Engine Size
5.7
??
 
Y

YakkoWarner

Full Access Member
Joined
May 29, 2024
Posts
162
Reaction score
187
Location
Central Texas
First Name
Wolf
Truck Year
1989
Truck Model
R2500 Suburban
Engine Size
454
Truck82 said:
I though I’d give y’all an update. I had the no. 1 spark plug in the wrong place and so obviously every other one was out of place making it not run. My problem is that I’m still 180 out even with the rotor in the right place. I’ve doubled checked everything and it’s all correct. I’ve just decided I’m fine with that as it is running great and I’ll just have to time it off the companion cylinder.
Thank you everyone for the help!
Click to expand...

There is no rule the says the rotor HAS to be physically pointed at the #1 plug - it is common practice and not a bad idea but as long as the rotor is pointing at the wire connected to the #1 plug when the #1 piston is at top of the compression stroke (and all the subsequent wires are in the right sequence), it will run just fine and do no harm. You can still time off the #1 cylinder because its still firing at the correct moment. The relationship of the rotor to the wires is what matters, not the absolute physical position of the rotor.

I always label my cap and wires with where they are going before disassembly, and then mark the new ones before reassembly (if the pre-existing labels are gone) so I don't make that mistake. Had a friend get a couple reversed on an engine a couple years ago and when it tried to run it apparently blew the head gasket from the fire happening at the wrong part of the stroke.
 
Truck82

Truck82

Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2024
Posts
75
Reaction score
147
Location
Alderton
First Name
Christopher
Truck Year
1982
Truck Model
c20
Engine Size
350
YakkoWarner said:
There is no rule the says the rotor HAS to be physically pointed at the #1 plug - it is common practice and not a bad idea but as long as the rotor is pointing at the wire connected to the #1 plug when the #1 piston is at top of the compression stroke (and all the subsequent wires are in the right sequence), it will run just fine and do no harm. You can still time off the #1 cylinder because its still firing at the correct moment. The relationship of the rotor to the wires is what matters, not the absolute physical position of the rotor.

I always label my cap and wires with where they are going before disassembly, and then mark the new ones before reassembly (if the pre-existing labels are gone) so I don't make that mistake. Had a friend get a couple reversed on an engine a couple years ago and when it tried to run it apparently blew the head gasket from the fire happening at the wrong part of the stroke.
Click to expand...
Right now I have the rotor pointing at the no. 8 cylinder and have the no. 1 plug wire in that position. My problem is that I’m still 180 out and having to time it off of the no. 4 spark plug wire. Why am I 180 out when the rotor points at the no. 1 plug wire at TDC compression AND when it’s at TDC exhaust? No matter what, I’m always 180 out. I’ve gotten so frustrated at cranking that thing over by hand and repositioning the distributor so many times that I’ll just have to leave it 180 out and time off of the no. 4.
 
Y

YakkoWarner

Full Access Member
Joined
May 29, 2024
Posts
162
Reaction score
187
Location
Central Texas
First Name
Wolf
Truck Year
1989
Truck Model
R2500 Suburban
Engine Size
454
Truck82 said:
Right now I have the rotor pointing at the no. 8 cylinder and have the no. 1 plug wire in that position. My problem is that I’m still 180 out and having to time it off of the no. 4 spark plug wire. Why am I 180 out when the rotor points at the no. 1 plug wire at TDC compression AND when it’s at TDC exhaust? No matter what, I’m always 180 out. I’ve gotten so frustrated at cranking that thing over by hand and repositioning the distributor so many times that I’ll just have to leave it 180 out and time off of the no. 4.
Click to expand...

You got me on that one. As long as the rotor is pointing at the right wire it will run just fine however. I wouldn't re-stab a distributor either in that case, just label the cap and wires appropriate and let it ride.
 
R

Ricko1966

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2017
Posts
5,414
Reaction score
8,630
Location
kansas
First Name
Rick
Truck Year
1975
Truck Model
c20
Engine Size
350
Truck82 said:
Right now I have the rotor pointing at the no. 8 cylinder and have the no. 1 plug wire in that position. My problem is that I’m still 180 out and having to time it off of the no. 4 spark plug wire. Why am I 180 out when the rotor points at the no. 1 plug wire at TDC compression AND when it’s at TDC exhaust? No matter what, I’m always 180 out. I’ve gotten so frustrated at cranking that thing over by hand and repositioning the distributor so many times that I’ll just have to leave it 180 out and time off of the no. 4.
Click to expand...
Posted below.
 
Last edited:
R

Ricko1966

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2017
Posts
5,414
Reaction score
8,630
Location
kansas
First Name
Rick
Truck Year
1975
Truck Model
c20
Engine Size
350
Cam and distributor turn at 1/2 crank speed,so rotor will be 180 out every other revolution.
 
R

Robert Bare

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 13, 2020
Posts
107
Reaction score
165
Location
MT
First Name
Robert
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
k20
Engine Size
5.7
It doesn't matter where the dizzy is inserted, as long as the rotor is pointed at the wire going to #1, as said.
I don't think you "get it". Now the way a Chevy 350 works, #1 and #6 are "companion cylinders". This means that they, and only they, will be at TDC when the crank timing marks are lined up, be it compression/fire, or exhaust. No other cylinders have this ability with the timing marks. So, if you are timing it on #6, is just fine.
If you are limiting it on #4, as you say, then you don't know where #4 is, or your balancer has slipped on the rubber. When setting timing on old,dirty, rusty engines I have used the coil wire for the inductive pickup on a timing light, for the extra flashes and light. But it is hard on timing light bulbs.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

CopperLB81
Help me Tom Cruise.. Fuel or Spark Issue??
Replies
2
Views
550
CopperLB81
CopperLB81
mqbaity
Spark, Fuel, Crank but won't start
2
Replies
29
Views
4K
Scott91370
Scott91370
Kowboy
Ignition won’t turn
Replies
10
Views
3K
L7AlxL7
L7AlxL7
M
454 problems timing/carb?
Replies
9
Views
824
DoubleDingo
DoubleDingo
G
Rough Idle and Stalling
Replies
6
Views
1K
75gmck25
75gmck25

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
44,129
Posts
949,913
Members
36,229
Latest member
CompyCarGuy
Top