Replacing DVOM batteries

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AuroraGirl

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So I have an innova 3320 that I got when I started working on cars, has done a lot for me.
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I went to use it and its dead lol. Im guessing so many times I left it on even with auto off probably drained it. I found a video that shows it uses AA batteries. Does it matter what kind of batteries you use, like physical type or technology? If freezing isnt good for a certain type of AA, for example. I like to leave it in harsh conditions. I dont want it leaking acid all over the inside etc.
also anyone have recommendations for multimeter leads, I bought some at menards but they are cheap junk.
 
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Buy leads from Innova or if those aren't any good ditch the whole thing and get a Fluke. Heard good things about Eneloop rechargeable. Whatever you do, don't buy Duracell. I have had battery's leak that were less than a month old. One time ruined a weather station monitor [inside] other I caught before damage, was in a rifle scope. Tried Energizer rechargeable so far they have been fine.

Alkaline batteries do not like the cold, lithium ion?

Might add those pancake batteries may also leak. I had one and heard others having leakers.
 
legopnuematic

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I have a set of these from AstroAI. Also have one of their clamp on meters, I’ve been pleased with both the meter and lead set from them. Reasonable too.

AstroAI leads
 
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Use one that has a long shelf life. I use Lithium batteries in mine. Expensive but they last a long time.
 
Craig Nedrow

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I have a fluke, stays in the shop, so seldom or never freezes in there but I work out there lots in the winter and heat it.
 
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AuroraGirl said:
So I have an innova 3320 that I got when I started working on cars, has done a lot for me.
You must be registered for see images attach

I went to use it and its dead lol. Im guessing so many times I left it on even with auto off probably drained it. I found a video that shows it uses AA batteries. Does it matter what kind of batteries you use, like physical type or technology? If freezing isnt good for a certain type of AA, for example. I like to leave it in harsh conditions. I dont want it leaking acid all over the inside etc.
also anyone have recommendations for multimeter leads, I bought some at menards but they are cheap junk.
Click to expand...

I have the exact same one. I went several years without using it. When I went to use it again, it was dead of course. When I opened up the battery compartment, I found a bunch of corrosion and destroyed contacts. You probably should open it up before you worry about what batteries to use.
 
AuroraGirl

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bucket said:
I have the exact same one. I went several years without using it. When I went to use it again, it was dead of course. When I opened up the battery compartment, I found a bunch of corrosion and destroyed contacts. You probably should open it up before you worry about what batteries to use.
Click to expand...
mine was okay on that, i just used some duracell power boost or some other marketing hype, they have lines on them, the only double A we have lol

Which I verified were alkaline, apparently youre only supposed to use alkaline because of the operating voltage is different, not sure how much that really affects things.. but i didnt have lithium anyway so it didnt bother me
 
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I have found 9v batteries less prone to leaking. Likely due to their construction where any cell leakage is contained in the main body. My fluke uses a 9v. One of my cheapies uses a 9v. The others use AA or AAA. Find a cheap used Fluke 87 and beat the hell out of it. If you're patient, they can be had for less than $100. Doesn't matter what version of the 87.
 
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AuroraGirl said:
mine was okay on that, i just used some duracell power boost or some other marketing hype, they have lines on them, the only double A we have lol

Which I verified were alkaline, apparently youre only supposed to use alkaline because of the operating voltage is different, not sure how much that really affects things.. but i didnt have lithium anyway so it didnt bother me
Click to expand...

Alkaline batteries are nominally 1.5v when new (in testing they tend to be from 1.56 to 1.62 when fresh from the pack). Rechargables are only 1.2v to 1.3v when fully charged, which would explain why your instrument's instructions say to use alkaline.

I've had rechargables and alkalines both leak - they key is just pull them out as soon as possible after they stop working. Pretty much all batteries will lose power in extreme cold.
 
Camar068

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AuroraGirl said:
So I have an innova 3320 that I got when I started working on cars, has done a lot for me.
You must be registered for see images attach

I went to use it and its dead lol. Im guessing so many times I left it on even with auto off probably drained it. I found a video that shows it uses AA batteries. Does it matter what kind of batteries you use, like physical type or technology? If freezing isnt good for a certain type of AA, for example. I like to leave it in harsh conditions. I dont want it leaking acid all over the inside etc.
also anyone have recommendations for multimeter leads, I bought some at menards but they are cheap junk.
Click to expand...
leads, if you buy cheap, get a 2nd set just in case. nothing worse than a bad set of leads, you didn't test them prior, and chase your ass all day due to a set of bad leads.

As for batteries, in harsh environments I'd check them often regardless of type....or keep the meter out of the elements....and have spares.

Know how it feels to have a "bad" meter when needed regardless of what the issue is....Chasing your tail is what I call it lol.

[EDIT] If you working in harsh environments, you probably want to open up the meter and find out what fuse it takes. You probably know if you Ohm across power, it will blow the fuse and the meter won't do sh|t. Put that with your batteries/leads.

Or just go to HF and buy a few ~$6 meters. Your choice.
 
Last edited:
Camar068

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Camar068 said:
leads, if you buy cheap, get a 2nd set just in case. nothing worse than a bad set of leads, you didn't test them prior, and chase your ass all day due to a set of bad leads.

As for batteries, in harsh environments I'd check them often regardless of type....or keep the meter out of the elements....and have spares.

Know how it feels to have a "bad" meter when needed regardless of what the issue is....Chasing your tail is what I call it lol.

[EDIT] If you working in harsh environments, you probably want to open up the meter and find out what fuse it takes. You probably know if you Ohm across power, it will blow the fuse and the meter won't do sh|t. Put that with your batteries/leads.

Or just go to HF and buy a few ~$6 meters. Your choice.
Click to expand...
just noticed battery load test, disregard the HF bit.
 
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Camar068 said:
leads, if you buy cheap, get a 2nd set just in case. nothing worse than a bad set of leads, you didn't test them prior, and chase your ass all day due to a set of bad leads.

As for batteries, in harsh environments I'd check them often regardless of type....or keep the meter out of the elements....and have spares.

Know how it feels to have a "bad" meter when needed regardless of what the issue is....Chasing your tail is what I call it lol.

[EDIT] If you working in harsh environments, you probably want to open up the meter and find out what fuse it takes. You probably know if you Ohm across power, it will blow the fuse and the meter won't do sh|t. Put that with your batteries/leads.

Or just go to HF and buy a few ~$6 meters. Your choice.
Click to expand...
Or make a fused lead with cheap common fuse. Thats what our instructor taught us,so an eff up doesn't result in having to open the meter and replace a 10.00 fuse. Open an inline fuse holder and .50 fuses from the hardware store.
 
Camar068

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Ricko1966 said:
Or make a fused lead with cheap common fuse. Thats what our instructor taught us,so an eff up doesn't result in having to open the meter and replace a 10.00 fuse. Open an inline fuse holder and .50 fuses from the hardware store.
Click to expand...
well damn....never thought of that one. Fine idea there. May do that for all my guys meters at work.

[edit] well damn again....you can buy fused meter leads lol.

hmmm...what about using the amp function? Maybe use that max amp fuse the meter is rated at and jump down an amp or 2.
 
Last edited:
Craig Nedrow

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Camar068 said:
well damn....never thought of that one. Fine idea there. May do that for all my guys meters at work.

[edit] well damn again....you can buy fused meter leads lol.

hmmm...what about using the amp function? Maybe use that max amp fuse the meter is rated at and jump down an amp or 2.
Click to expand...
That Ricko is a smart cookie!!
 
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