Fjordlander
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Oct 10, 2022
- Posts
- 99
- Reaction score
- 38
- Location
- USA
- First Name
- Kyle
- Truck Year
- 1976
- Truck Model
- Scottsdale K10
- Engine Size
- V8
Okay thanks. I'll try that and see what happens
Front end noise
- Thread starter Fjordlander
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Fjordlander
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Oct 10, 2022
- Posts
- 99
- Reaction score
- 38
- Location
- USA
- First Name
- Kyle
- Truck Year
- 1976
- Truck Model
- Scottsdale K10
- Engine Size
- V8
I removed the front driveshaft but now my truck won't move at all.. She'll roll in neutral but no driving forward or reverse. Any idea what that means? I was under the impression that removing the front shaft would just give me a rear wheel drive truck
- Joined
- Oct 27, 2016
- Posts
- 2,465
- Reaction score
- 6,296
- Location
- MO
- First Name
- Spencer
- Truck Year
- 1971, 1̶9̶7̶4, 1976, 1979,1̶9̶8̶5, 2002
- Truck Model
- Dart Swinger, Sierra 10, C10 Cheyenne, C10 Big Ten, Silverado 10, Ram 2500
- Engine Size
- 225/6, 350 c.i., 350 c.i., 5.9l Cummins
Since it's a full-time 203, you need to put the shifter into Hi-Loc, in Hi range, it is like an open differential, since you removed the front driveshaft it is putting 100% power to the front output as it has no resistance.
Fjordlander
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Oct 10, 2022
- Posts
- 99
- Reaction score
- 38
- Location
- USA
- First Name
- Kyle
- Truck Year
- 1976
- Truck Model
- Scottsdale K10
- Engine Size
- V8
Thank you! I thought I was in Hi-Loc cause it felt like the end but I just had to pull super hard.
The truck drives now and there are no weird sounds so it was definitely the front drive shaft. Is there a chance it could be the u-joints or do you think I need a whole new drive shaft?
AuroraGirl
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Sep 8, 2019
- Posts
- 9,693
- Reaction score
- 6,867
- Location
- Northern Wisconsin
- First Name
- Taylor
- Truck Year
- 1978, 1980
- Truck Model
- K10, K25
- Engine Size
- 400(?), 350
if you werent in LOC then having a slight delay itself may not be an issue but the speed difference may not be odd.. you had all 4 in the air right? If you put it in LOC then you would get matched speeds?
AuroraGirl
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Sep 8, 2019
- Posts
- 9,693
- Reaction score
- 6,867
- Location
- Northern Wisconsin
- First Name
- Taylor
- Truck Year
- 1978, 1980
- Truck Model
- K10, K25
- Engine Size
- 400(?), 350
Lets say he kept the driveshaft off it, could one drive it normally in hi loc or would that be super stressful on the case?
75gmck25
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2016
- Posts
- 2,253
- Reaction score
- 2,192
- Location
- Northern Virginia
- First Name
- Bruce
- Truck Year
- 1975
- Truck Model
- K25 Camper Special TH350 NP203
- Engine Size
- 5.7
My truck with NP203 started making loud clicking noises (not a clunk), and it turned out to be the u-joints (rusted, roller bearings had metal in metal) and the centering yoke in the front driveshaft CV joint.
The CV joint has a spring-loaded centering yoke in between the u-joints, and it keeps the joint parts in alignment as the driveshaft turns. It can wear down, spring can break, etc, and then the joint does not turn smoothly. It did not feel loose when installed, but the damage was very clear when I took it apart.
IIRC, I got the new sealed u-joints and the centering yoke from RockAuto because it was the cheapest source. Easy job to disassemble and replace parts once I got the driveshaft off.
The CV joint has a spring-loaded centering yoke in between the u-joints, and it keeps the joint parts in alignment as the driveshaft turns. It can wear down, spring can break, etc, and then the joint does not turn smoothly. It did not feel loose when installed, but the damage was very clear when I took it apart.
IIRC, I got the new sealed u-joints and the centering yoke from RockAuto because it was the cheapest source. Easy job to disassemble and replace parts once I got the driveshaft off.
- Joined
- Oct 27, 2016
- Posts
- 2,465
- Reaction score
- 6,296
- Location
- MO
- First Name
- Spencer
- Truck Year
- 1971, 1̶9̶7̶4, 1976, 1979,1̶9̶8̶5, 2002
- Truck Model
- Dart Swinger, Sierra 10, C10 Cheyenne, C10 Big Ten, Silverado 10, Ram 2500
- Engine Size
- 225/6, 350 c.i., 350 c.i., 5.9l Cummins
Looking it up, it seems some say it’s not a big deal, others say it’s hard on, and can wear the lock pins in the case? So pretty much the normal internet answers lol.
I suspect that overall condition and driving style/usage play into this significantly.
Fjordlander
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Oct 10, 2022
- Posts
- 99
- Reaction score
- 38
- Location
- USA
- First Name
- Kyle
- Truck Year
- 1976
- Truck Model
- Scottsdale K10
- Engine Size
- V8
Yeah I had all 4 up in the air but I didn't try it in Loc. Once I replace the u-joints in the front driveshaft I'll test it in Loc and see
Fjordlander
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Oct 10, 2022
- Posts
- 99
- Reaction score
- 38
- Location
- USA
- First Name
- Kyle
- Truck Year
- 1976
- Truck Model
- Scottsdale K10
- Engine Size
- V8
I took all the u-joints out but I didn't see a spring anywhere so that must have broken and fallen off or something. I'll look into ordering a new centering yoke
Fjordlander
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Oct 10, 2022
- Posts
- 99
- Reaction score
- 38
- Location
- USA
- First Name
- Kyle
- Truck Year
- 1976
- Truck Model
- Scottsdale K10
- Engine Size
- V8
All u-joints and the centering yoke have been replaced and the noise is gone!
When I got the old centering yoke off, the spring was broken into a few pieces and the part was pretty worn in general. Thank you all for your help!
When I got the old centering yoke off, the spring was broken into a few pieces and the part was pretty worn in general. Thank you all for your help!
Similar threads
