Tubular on the c1oh

Ive got a few questions. Which i belive I've asked on my build thread but i wanted to expand and explain here.

So for thoes who don't know i have a lifted 79 c10. 4.5" spindle lift. It has quite alor of body roll, but no sway bar. I have some peeps telling me I need to do a tubular upper control arm(have someone who will build them for me) and i need to do coilovers. However I am wondering if this is nessacary? Also if it will help with the roll? I. Assuming is have to get some for a c30?

Now I also have another guy, I'm very skeptical about this, saying on my rear axle I need to put my shocks to the back side instead of one front one back???

Quite confusing figured I'd clarify them.

It's just as frame for the next month and half while getting painted.

swaybars will help with body roll more than coil-overs. and there cheap. you will most likely haft to make drop brackets for the swaybar so it will reach your a-arms.
i used a piece of 3" square tubing to lower my bar on my 8" lifted crewcab.
weird your getting such massive amounts of roll. i took my swaybar off when i went to cross-over and it handles pretty much 95% the same. i can hit corners at 50-60 and doesn't even come close to feeling like it'll go over
and shocks staggered are best. it helps counteract torque, or axle wrap

Rumbledawg said:

swaybars will help with body roll more than coil-overs. and there cheap. you will most likely haft to make drop brackets for the swaybar so it will reach your a-arms.
i used a piece of 3" square tubing to lower my bar on my 8" lifted crewcab.
weird your getting such massive amounts of roll. i took my swaybar off when i went to cross-over and it handles pretty much 95% the same. i can hit corners at 50-60 and doesn't even come close to feeling like it'll go over
and shocks staggered are best. it helps counteract torque, or axle wrap

Click to expand...

Well it's also got 35" tires on 15" rims. And the current springs might be kinda weak. They're ebay springs. Can you send a picture of the drop bracket?

In my opinion I think a sway bar could do it for the truck. And if not some c20 springs could.

Springs and sway bars control body roll. Almost exclusively. Other stuff helps other stuff.
Rear shocks orientation isn’t contributing to it either.

randomTruckKid said:

Well it's also got 35" tires on 15" rims. And the current springs might be kinda weak. They're ebay springs. Can you send a picture of the drop bracket?

In my opinion I think a sway bar could do it for the truck. And if not some c20 springs could.

Click to expand...

tires are unsprung weight. even when i run my 42" swamps i never get that tippy feeling.
even with bad springs a sway will help.
i was actually a little leery taking off my swaybar, cause it saved my a$$ a few months earlier. i broke the front drivers leaf spring rear bolt out in the bush. the rear of the front spring was just hanging. that 1 1/4" swaybar held my D60 in place all by itself 30 miles home. no swaybar and it would have been on the hook to get home.
for drop brackets you just need a couple hunks of steel. i happened to have some sq tubing so it's what i used. bolt the steel to your swaybar pads and bolt your swaybar to the drop brackets

C10 and C20 use the same front coil springs. Try the sway bar first, get a heavy duty one. There are also rear sway bars available. Leave the rear shocks alone, the engineers at gm had a good reason to make the shock setup how it is. Staggered shocks dampen the axle wind up under acceleration.

ali_c20 said:

C10 and C20 use the same front coil springs. Try the sway bar first, get a heavy duty one. There are also rear sway bars available. Leave the rear shocks alone, the engineers at gm had a good reason to make the shock setup how it is. Staggered shocks dampen the axle wind up under acceleration.

Click to expand...

That's exactly what I was going to do. I don't particularly want to go off cutting crap off for tubular or moving the shocks. I prefer it to be reversible. If I ever want to de lift it or someone else does.