after doin front end clutch and steering column,truck feels like its in 4wd

so recently I had to do a front end swap on my 83 K10. I got a used married front and rear end. and shortly after putting them in my clutch went out.in which time my ignition and lock cylinder took a **** as well!, long story, but I did clutch slave cylinder and pressure plate/throw out bearing. which involved taking tranny and transfer case outwhich obviously involved taking drive lines out. oh and when did front end (which came out of like a85suburban).I ha to shorten the steering link?. and adjust stabilizer bar, to get the wheels aligned straight. I feel like I had no issues with front end swap, nor the clutch besides bleeding that bastard...I did run into few issues with steering column like it had a tilt column in it with it being a column shift used as a manual shift truck. I ended up buying a used fixed column because I don't like how weak tilt columns get from prolonged use. the difference is the length was alil longer(not an issue) and the ignition switch is mounted and operates opposite of the tilt one. with a little modifying mounting brackets and it all worked.and moving some stuff under the dash in that time I found out my starter was ****, so I had to get a brand new starter as well. . ok I've listed everything I've done since the truck first went down, which I've had for 4 years before this time and which nothing was short of running very nicely before these snowball effects occurred. but my issue is I've got everything put back together and it is not right in some way,when I do a large turn or turn in a 180 for whatever reason it kinda jerks and chirps like if the brake was engaged(which it isn't).or like when a truck was in four low, it has drag or feels like it does, like its engaged in 4low. it isn't because when I get on the road and proceed to speed limit which I'd 45 top speed I've had it since my overhaul. the motor and truck seems to be innrwd like it should, and I shift thru the gears starting out in 2nd and it shifts smoothly clutch doesn't have issues, and truck brakes fine when I engage them, no jerking or pulling but I went down the road a mile or so and had a whining/squealing/chirping sound, maybe even a slight vibration/ the noise seemed to happen in higher gear and best I could tell cuz of other raddic noise and motor being a beast that the noise kinda quieted up some after I checked out visibly anything for loose parts or bolts. but the truck seems to feel like its engaged in 4wd or the tanny? or axles or I dunno at this point does anybody know what I'm dealing with?or understand what I'm describing. I need my reuck In a bad way, but also don't wanna screw up what I've done so I don't really want to drive it much. I'm by no means a gear head or a wrench or a mechanic, but I can change parts, and am a good student, and I don't have Enuf driving results of mechanical overhauls to know if i missed something or installed something, outside of visibly seeing something not right, like the drive lines all went back and can notice they line up and mate with the same wear spots or they go back where they always have and cant see any reason why they are wrong, but it almost feels and sounds like the tranny? and the one thing I did notice was my front hubs felt pretty warm after about a mile, as did my steering pump/box. but my pumpkins weren't hot neither was tranny transfer case an ebrake seemed to not be engaged, I've not put it up on jackstands yet and tried to recreate the issue, as this jus happened late laat nite, I am jus looking for some insight, so I don't have to rip a bunch of crap apart. hoping this was common or at least a flag to any experts. can the tranny engage in a way that it will still shift without clunking but not be in sync with the sifter? or can the transfer case engage the front axles without hubs being locked in manually or any dummy lights not showing. I checked the obvious, manual hubs are free, that's how I noticed they were pretty warm. and I know I replaced fluid in both tranyy and trans. I'm goin to check all fluids now, but I regreased all zircs and pretty sure I put all fluids in all places, so I'm just wandering if I put something back wrong or if this is an issue created by having new parts and other things being too warn to keep up? or if I'm jus a *******? please help as I said I really need the use of my truck. and do not want to hurt what I've already done by driving it more, so time is f the essence, thanks In advance sorry for the frigging novel I didn't want to leave out anything even tho I may have anyways. haha

so somewhat of an update, I re checked all fluids and grease zircs, all were ok.jacked truck up non jack stands and I could not manually turn axles without wheels on which should be easy?. I noticed the brake pads were more than touching the rotors, so I loosened them and bled off brakes alil bit to get Enuf to spread caliper apart, just to see if that is what was causing my drag, and I was able to spin both axles freely. so I think this will eliminate the 4wd feeling and squell or whining. but my next question is what causes brake calipers to do that, and does that mean they are no good? as in the pistonor whatever makes them compress and depress? the brake lines themselves have plenty fouid in entire system and no air came out when I cracked them open. so its not sucking air, I'm sure they are fairly older brakes they came on the front end I bought as I stated before. but the pads are basically new and the rotors look fine, no gouges or any marring, so does this mean those calipers(?) are worn out or no good?. thanks

shonto777 said:

so somewhat of an update, I re checked all fluids and grease zircs, all were ok.jacked truck up non jack stands and I could not manually turn axles without wheels on which should be easy?. I noticed the brake pads were more than touching the rotors, so I loosened them and bled off brakes alil bit to get Enuf to spread caliper apart, just to see if that is what was causing my drag, and I was able to spin both axles freely. so I think this will eliminate the 4wd feeling and squell or whining. but my next question is what causes brake calipers to do that, and does that mean they are no good? as in the pistonor whatever makes them compress and depress? the brake lines themselves have plenty fouid in entire system and no air came out when I cracked them open. so its not sucking air, I'm sure they are fairly older brakes they came on the front end I bought as I stated before. but the pads are basically new and the rotors look fine, no gouges or any marring, so does this mean those calipers(?) are worn out or no good?. thanks

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Any brakes staying on is usually a bad rubber hose. I have had a caliper seize before once my pads got too wore out it stuck the caliper and held it on till the pads got too hot and started to lock the wheel up.

Ive been thinking (a little bit) about this.
My first thought was "steering rack".
Wait...thats not it lol
Then my head wanders to the RAG JOINT.

I wouldnt bet too much but i'm lookin at you "shortening of the steering column".
It's obviously in a bind.

Ever turned a circle in a dry parking lot in 4lo?

Everything else bolted up but you modified that one part if I understand correctly?
That's my bet.
Junior.

Split to caliper hardware? Super cheap.

The steering binding of being in 4wd on dry pavement is the same 4hi or low.
IMO a hanging brake does not feel the same but is easy to diagnose. It’s the wheel(s) that get too hot and cause it to pull on way or other.
I think your problems, symptoms and solutions are mutually exclusive. And you’ve described 2 separate issues.

Old brake lines breaking down, they swell and let fluid through due pressure applied but won’t relax enough to let the pressure back out which jams the brakes on. Could be the culprit.

(maybe he's thinkin about it??)


I'm gonna have a seat...


Where'd that Drink Girl go?

Grit dog said:

The steering binding of being in 4wd on dry pavement is the same 4hi or low.
IMO a hanging brake does not feel the same but is easy to diagnose. It’s the wheel(s) that get too hot and cause it to pull on way or other.
I think your problems, symptoms and solutions are mutually exclusive. And you’ve described 2 separate issues.

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i think he meant the hop would be pronounced more, because of the torque increase



did the OP say anything about if he unlocked his hubs..i only skimmed his words and seen him ask if they can lock without being turned to that.

Can the OP confirm that the hubs are unlocked and that if you jack up your front axle you can spin the wheels both ways without the shaft behind the knuckle rotating?

I only read a line or two from that way-huge monosentence and I got a headache ... but so far I see some responses that open a little info.....

I've had the wrong master cylinder internal pushrod turn out to be too long and that keeps the brakes partially applied.

I might be totally wrong here --- but I'm not going to even attempt to read the OP's post ... but hot brakes and odd steering/brake feelings (an assumption, I agree because of reasons I've already posted) ... are not usually caused by rubber hoses.

I've only seen that ONCE in 57+ years as a mechanic ... and that was when the rack pad was pinching the hose.

Oh yeah --- I had a customer insert a BB into a hose once to block off a leaking rear wheel cylinder --- and THAT was a merry chase to find!

Rusty Nail said:

I'm gonna have a seat...


Where'd that Drink Girl go?

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I think I'd rather have the foot massage girl come by .....

.

Are you sure that the front and rear pinion gears are the same ratio. If one is different than the other it can cause your issue. The ratio's are fighting each other.

Jimmyperf400 said:

Are you sure that the front and rear pinion gears are the same ratio. If one is different than the other it can cause your issue. The ratio's are fighting each other.

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I think ole boy left the chat…