Car Hauler tips/tricks/ideas

bluex said:

These through wheel straps popped up on Amazon this week for $36 so I thought I'd give them a try. It was/is just the strap an no ratchet. I actually like them, just need to pickup a pair of ratchet handles that have the hook straight on them for the rear. An maybe some softer covers if I ever have nicer wheels. The tounge box is pretty full now but I think I have enough straps for anything I might need to haul.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

I also picked up a reciever winch mount, the reciever part an a 2' piece of 1/4" angle. Going to bolt the angle under the floor to the crossmember an then bolt the reciever to that through the floor. Had hopes to get that much done this weekend but looks like the weather isnt going to cooperate.

Click to expand...

Ok I'm just nit picking here, but you can never strap anything down too good.

On the front, if you are going to use the long run of straps like that, imho it would have been better to cross them so they form an "X". Otherwise, just use a shorter run of strap and go down to one of the closer stake pockets. It offers more downward pull and also more side-side stability.

On that left rear wheel, the strap should have been through the next opening to the rear. You want the imaginary line of your strap to be inline with the axle centerline. The reason being, if you were to hit a large bump and the wheel lost some contact pressure with the trailer, the force of the strap could rotate the wheel, which would then cause the strap to be loose.

But like I said, just nit picking. You certainly had it strapped down far better than a lot of people do, and 99.999% of the time, nothing bad would have happened.

bucket said:

Ok I'm just nit picking here, but you can never strap anything down too good.

On the front, if you are going to use the long run of straps like that, imho it would have been better to cross them so they form an "X". Otherwise, just use a shorter run of strap and go down to one of the closer stake pockets. It offers more downward pull and also more side-side stability.

On that left rear wheel, the strap should have been through the next opening to the rear. You want the imaginary line of your strap to be inline with the axle centerline. The reason being, if you were to hit a large bump and the wheel lost some contact pressure with the trailer, the force of the strap could rotate the wheel, which would then cause the strap to be loose.

But like I said, just nit picking. You certainly had it strapped down far better than a lot of people do, and 99.999% of the time, nothing bad would have happened.

Click to expand...

I don't mind at all, that's what this thread is for. I want to learn what's good/bad, easier ways, better equipment etc. I probably know enough to be safe but it could also be just enough to be dangerous too.

I thought about crossing the front ones but I didn't like how it was pulling on the ring. Probably would have been OK but in my google image research I didn't see anyone crossing with this style. I have 2 more pocket d-ring things so I can definitely tie it down closer to the truck. When I use the axle straps to the control arm/axle I always cross them.

On the LR, I had it in gear an brake applied but I do see what you are saying there an that makes sense. I am not sure why I ran it there, must not have been paying attention as much since we were talking. I did see it when I stopped on the highway ramp but with it on the Dr side, I didn't want to restrap it that close to traffic. Plan was to stop an check before that point but traffic was heavy an there just was no good place with easy access.

I think I'd definitely look into counter sinking some of those flush mount d-rings in the floor in various spots. Those looooooooong straps in the front give me the willies lol. I'd probably do another 2 pair up front and maybe one in the rear, that way you have several options for tying down.

That's a nice trailer though, I'm jealous! The winch mount with a receiver and quick connects is a great idea, though storing it will be a pain. I've always had them mounted in the toolbox on the tongue but I get why you don't wanna do that.

It seems like running the strap through the wheel would leave rub marks on them.

nvrenuf said:

It seems like running the strap through the wheel would leave rub marks on them.

Click to expand...

As long as you have the soft covers on them, they typically don't do anything to the wheels. I've hauled a bunch of cars with them.

Ya these have a cover sleeve but it seems it's almost the same material as the strap, like it's just to help keep the strap from getting abrasion itself. I found some fleece covers that I might get. I'm ready for different wheels on it so I'm not to worried about those, they are far from perfect anyhow.

All right brain trust, is this beefy enough? This took a bit of planning but it turned out how I wanted, unless it's not solid enough. The angle underneath is 1/4", all bolts are 1/2" grade 8 with prevailing torque nuts, also grade 8. The crossmember it's bolted to is 3/16" i believe.

With the way they made the front of the trailer drilling through the crossmember wasn't going to work. The very front one is 5" an the other one is 3", the open part of each channel is facing each other like this [ ] so it was fun getting the bolts in there to mount the angle. Plus with where the holes were in the reciever it couldn't get back far enough to reach the front 5" crossmember anyway.

Looks good from over here.

Agree

Looks good to me. We mounted ours in a very similar way. Also, we used a waterproof deck sealant. Kinda like a roll on rubber. It's my buddy's trailer and that's what he wanted. Held up pretty well. When it's time for a re-coat, I think we'll just do some sort of bedliner.

If it were MY trailer, I'd coat it in used motor oil. Some mix it with used ATF or diesel to make thinner. Easier to soak into the wood. And then you won't worry about oils dripping on it either. Makes the wood VERY water and rot resistant.

I'm giving the wood about another month to dry out an it's getting the oil/diesel treatment for sure.

Help me with the diesel / oil / trans fluid deck treatment...

To me this would take a very long time before the deck would be dry to the touch. At the very least, I would worry about getting any amount of oil on my shoes and tracking it around plus I've used my trailer deck as a work bench for parts as well as working on my Blazer, again not wanting to get oil on parts or clothes.

nvrenuf said:

Help me with the diesel / oil / trans fluid deck treatment...

To me this would take a very long time before the deck would be dry to the touch. At the very least, I would worry about getting any amount of oil on my shoes and tracking it around plus I've used my trailer deck as a work bench for parts as well as working on my Blazer, again not wanting to get oil on parts or clothes.

Click to expand...

It soaks in like any other stain once the wood is in the right condition. I've seen alot of comments about getting things dirty, oily etc. Everyone says once it sits in the sun a few days it's soaked in an won't rub off on anything just like a regular store bought stain

It's also important to get under the trailer an do the bottoms that you can get to from what I've heard

Oiling sounds like a treatment that is best performed with all the wood exposed, dry and clean. Then after assembly, a recoat should be enough to keep the 'internals' protected. But, if that's not an option, go the Binford way - more oil!

Radiohead said:

Oiling sounds like a treatment that is best performed with all the wood exposed, dry and clean. Then after assembly, a recoat should be enough to keep the 'internals' protected. But, if that's not an option, go the Binford way - more oil!

Click to expand...

Agree, that would be “best”. It will absorb moisture from the uncoated underside. But not practical to remove the deck for that.
And for sure motor oil works. Wouldn’t plan on using it for a couple weeks or whatever.
But I also wouldn’t use it on a new trailer with new lumber. Guess if I spent $1000s on a trailer that is nice and shiny, and more on a winch mount. accessories, etc, I’d just spring $50 for a gallon of Penofin and keep it nice looking and not ugly black and smelling like the grease pit at a Jiffy lube.