What locker shall I go for?

I installed a True-Trac in my Suburban. I have probably 30,000 miles on it now. I haven't had any problems with it at all.

mattsk8 said:

I think a Detroit locker can cause as many problems in snow and ice as it solves. I would look at a TruTrac, but another option is putting chains on your back tires. Not sure what you're getting stuck more in, snow or mud. Unfortunately for snow it's tough to beat 4wd, I've never been glad I had a posi rear diff when I was driving in snow.

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Well the OPs truck is 2wd so a locker or posi will certainly solve more problems than it causes.
The issue with lockers/posi and ice is mostly a connectivity issue between the driver’s cpu (brain) and right foot.
I suppose if you stick to 4wd on cruising roads and highways that are at least moderately maintained in the winter, a posi is not of great use…..
Selectable locker is great. Even on a 4wd. Used it a lot in the couple Ferd Sooper doody company rigs I had a while back. Plenty of times, the one wheel peel would t get it, but the locker would. Keeping me from havin to shift into 4wd briefly, just to go back to 2wd again.

Grit dog said:

Well the OPs truck is 2wd so a locker or posi will certainly solve more problems than it causes.
The issue with lockers/posi and ice is mostly a connectivity issue between the driver’s cpu (brain) and right foot.
I suppose if you stick to 4wd on cruising roads and highways that are at least moderately maintained in the winter, a posi is not of great use…..
Selectable locker is great. Even on a 4wd. Used it a lot in the couple Ferd Sooper doody company rigs I had a while back. Plenty of times, the one wheel peel would t get it, but the locker would. Keeping me from havin to shift into 4wd briefly, just to go back to 2wd again.

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I've only ever used full posi in snow and ice and IMO it was no fun w/out traction control. I'll take the one-wheel-peel in that scenario, just because the little bit of traction I gain with posi is quickly forgotten if I goose the throttle a little too much on an ice patch with a posi rear diff. I totally agree an electric or an air locker would be the best option, unfortunately it's also the most expensive, and the most work to install.

Mud is much more frequent than snow. What kind of problem do you foresee with a Detroit locker in the snow?

Andreas Wickman said:

Mud is much more frequent than snow. What kind of problem do you foresee with a Detroit locker in the snow?

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If you have a Detroit locker on snow packed or icy roads it can be hair raising, seemingly unpredictable. A little too much throttle and it'll whip you around in a circle real quick. That's the benefit to a LSD, like a Trutrac, they don't behave that way on snow and ice.

This was a video that was very helpful for me as a newbie in this topic

Andreas Wickman said:

Mud is much more frequent than snow. What kind of problem do you foresee with a Detroit locker in the snow?

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If you were just driving in mud and dirt it would be a no-brainer, get a Detroit locker. I run a Detroit in my FF14B rear diff, but my truck is stored inside all winter. But on ice or snow, in MY opinion a Detroit Locker can be pretty hairy.

Some of the choices are "lockers", while others are termed a "limited slip differential". Limited slip often has internal clutches, or some other mechanism that makes the locking come in more gradually. It sounds like a selectable locker might be your best choice, but they are usually relatively expensive because you need some way to control them (electrical, vacuum, etc.).

The GM factory locker option was called the G80 GovLock, and it was more for trucks (like ours) than it was for performance cars. It has a locking pawl inside and whenever the rpm difference between the two rear wheels reaches about 200 rpm, the pawl flips out and engages the locking mechanism. The GovLock has a bad reputation because if you spin it up too fast on pavement it will lock too quickly, and then sometimes things start to break inside. Hence the nickname - GovBomb.

Detroit Locker has a great rep, but it's really designed for performance cars that want a very positive locking mechanism. It is a very solid locking mechanism, and may chirp or make various noises when turning sharp around corners. I first heard of them in the 70's when they were an option on Ford Mustang Mach 1, Torino Cobra, etc.

I had a Ford Traction-Lock axle in my Torino, and even that could be a handful on ice. When you spin one wheel (no Traction-Lock) it drags the car rear end around relatively slowly because one wheel is spinning and one is stationary. With Traction-Lok and a lot of engine power it was easy to break both wheels loose very quickly on pavement, and just about as quick for the car to try to completely swap ends. On ice I learned that once it lost traction the rear of the car started a slow swing out to the right and I had to let up on the throttle and try to manage it by steering back the other way.

75gmck25 said:

Some of the choices are "lockers", while others are termed a "limited slip differential". Limited slip often has internal clutches, or some other mechanism that makes the locking come in more gradually. It sounds like a selectable locker might be your best choice, but they are usually relatively expensive because you need some way to control them (electrical, vacuum, etc.).

The GM factory locker option was called the G80 GovLock, and it was more for trucks (like ours) than it was for performance cars. It has a locking pawl inside and whenever the rpm difference between the two rear wheels reaches about 200 rpm, the pawl flips out and engages the locking mechanism. The GovLock has a bad reputation because if you spin it up too fast on pavement it will lock too quickly, and then sometimes things start to break inside. Hence the nickname - GovBomb.

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that mostly happens on S-10 10 bolts and 12 bolts do not hear about that much on 9.5 14 bolt or 10.5 14 blot or the aam 11.5 that being said it can still happen but imho the big rear were built better so less failure rate

Like @Grit dog said earlier, if you can swing the cost, a selectable locker like an air, electric or manual locker is hands-down the best way to go. Then you get the best of everything, it just costs more than double what any of the other ones cost.

CalSgt said:

If primarily being used on the farm a Detroit may be a good choice



Really? I didn’t search for any but I’d bet there are numerous selectable lockers for the 14 bolt, they are widely popular in the rock crawling crowd. I’d assume there is tons of aftermarket support in this area.

That said ARB is a great locker, I’m also a fan of the Eaton “E” lockers, my jeep came with Spicer’s E lockers front and rear and they have held up really well with no issues

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For a 10.5 ff axle, absolutely. For the 9.5 sf not so much. Both axles are referred to as 14 bolts, but totally different beasts.

I would suggest an air locker or e locker. These units run as an open differential until selected, then both wheels have drive. This will give you the most predictable driving manner and reduce wear compared to auto lockers. They do cost more and require a bit more technical knowledge to install.
Really it comes down to what your application is and your budget.

Andreas, welcome from farmer to another. My 1973 K20 needed a posi, I chose a Yukon Lunchbox locker for my rear 14 FF, and a Spicer for the Dana 44 in front. I drove the truck several years this way, and love the rear locker, very positive, and seems indestructible behind my modified 454. It will "scrunch" gravel when I turn sharp in my driveway. In a parking lot, it does not, and is quiet. I have a complete pictorial teardown and setup here: https://www.gmsquarebody.com/threads/1973-k20-350-to-454-swap.29840/page-3
Start around post 32. This takes you through the steps to install a lunchbox locker. I did it for the same reason you are, and where I live is remote, rural, and lots of snow. Here it is in action:
and: The clunk about 2 seconds into the video was the tire letting go a big chunk of rubber.