1973-1980 Tailgate Trim

Can anybody share the details around the (2) options of tailgate trim available on a 73-80 C/K? I know you could get no trim band/insert with chevy letters stamped on tailgate showing and they made (2) different trim band panels. There is a smaller one with chevrolet stampled across tailgate and then larger one that covers entire indent on the tailgate. If the truck was equipped with this trim would it of been listed on the SPID in glove compartment or was it trim level option? I have a 79 Scottsdale and like the small trim and have a friend wth one thats NOS and looking to put on the truck. Just curious how they were outfitted on the trucks back new.

Also, anyone mount these with good 3M 2 sided tape or is everyone drilling the holes to mount like original?

thanks for input

pic attached of the smaller tailgate trim band i looking to put on my 79 K10

That small trim is the only tailgate trim I would have, other than the two tone trim. They are factory drilled through both layers of sheet metal. If your tailgate doesn't have holes, don't drill any. Adhesive tape is crazy good these days.

I doubt they showed up on the spid, they definitely weren't a trim level thing. I'm sure it was something the dealer ordered for random trucks, or the customer ordered it.

thats the one i want as well...the smaller one. Like the looks of it and my truck has same two tone trim you have as well. I will definitely use 3M VHB 2 sided tape. Thanks for input and nice to see a K10 working truck!

My 76 is a Cheyenne and has the smaller trim recessed in the tailgate.

Looking at the 1976 vehicle information kit, the way I read it is the Cheyenne package got you the small trim, the Silverado package got you the large trim. I wouldn’t doubt that they could be ordered to add or delete or substitute in some form though.

thank you...super helpful!

PrairieDrifter said:

That small trim is the only tailgate trim I would have, other than the two tone trim. They are factory drilled through both layers of sheet metal. If your tailgate doesn't have holes, don't drill any. Adhesive tape is crazy good these days.

I doubt they showed up on the spid, they definitely weren't a trim level thing. I'm sure it was something the dealer ordered for random trucks, or the customer ordered it.

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let me see your truck bed trailer, boss

AuroraGirl said:

let me see your truck bed trailer, boss

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My great grandpa used it as a water trailer forever, still has factory shocks on it. Just a half ton 5 lug 2wd trailer.

My 1977-8 ish C10 5 lug trailer (12 bolt) is a lot like yours, but my leaf spring stack is split in half on one side..lol.. onl the spring with the eye is actually left on half ,which im guessing means its not very useable till i correct that.

3/4 ton full floatings are cool to make into trailers if you dont mind the 14 bolt being used simply because you can pull the shafts. may be good for units which grenaded and such. Low differential pumpkin so you gotta use taller tires to not hit the ground, but they pull MUCH easier than the 10/12 bolts will as a trailer

WWOLFE68 said:

thats the one i want as well...the smaller one. Like the looks of it and my truck has same two tone trim you have as well. I will definitely use 3M VHB 2 sided tape. Thanks for input and nice to see a K10 working truck!

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It's a k20. But my K10 is retired. Other than taking it out for a fuel run and hauling bales every year and the occasional drive. It does still work every year, because that's what this truck did its entire life. Work. Not much else.

AuroraGirl said:

My 1977-8 ish C10 5 lug trailer (12 bolt) is a lot like yours, but my leaf spring stack is split in half on one side..lol.. onl the spring with the eye is actually left on half ,which im guessing means its not very useable till i correct that.

3/4 ton full floatings are cool to make into trailers if you dont mind the 14 bolt being used simply because you can pull the shafts. may be good for units which grenaded and such. Low differential pumpkin so you gotta use taller tires to not hit the ground, but they pull MUCH easier than the 10/12 bolts will as a trailer

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Being me id have to rip out the 14 bolt to use it lol. I'd like to find a good swap in trailer axle, not have to worry about the differential.

Will the hub bearings still get lube if the axles are removed on a 14 bolt assembly? For some reason it seems to me that the spinning shafts help draw fresh lube out from the pumpkin.
Truth or just this bowl talking?

Oh, I can vouch for a '79 Silverado having the monster band.

PrairieDrifter said:

Being me id have to rip out the 14 bolt to use it lol. I'd like to find a good swap in trailer axle, not have to worry about the differential.

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i suppose, nothing prevents anyone from placing a trailer axle under or on top of the leaf springs already there, right?

Radiohead said:

Will the hub bearings still get lube if the axles are removed on a 14 bolt assembly? For some reason it seems to me that the spinning shafts help draw fresh lube out from the pumpkin.
Truth or just this bowl talking?

Oh, I can vouch for a '79 Silverado having the monster band.

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Luckily my friends here have helped with this very topic when I decided to undergo this myself about 5 years ago(been that long!?)

I found out that the axle shafts lubricate the bearings in the end of the axle, and that removing them would under lubricate.
But there was a solution, my first suggestion given was to use my chop saw and remove the axle shaft from the part that covers the end and then simply fill up the thing to submerge the bearings. I wanted to keep these axle shafts because I have a 14 bolt in service on my square and having spare shafts seems wise.

The gear oil on the ground was what happens when I held the wand of the bucket-pump and looked away while pumping and managed to miss the axle a few pumps

So I capped one end and pumped this baby up with gear oil!

In late 2022, I removed one of my covers in order to inspect the fluid condition and see if there was any issues to note. I still need to replace the breather end on the axle, because at the moment it lets dust in, but the fluid was still purple/blue/red whatever the color was new, and there were no issues to speak of other than what was present back then. The brakes havent seized or locked up on me, so the hubs spin beautifully, im glad. One day I need to reemove the hub and remove the shoes because Id hate for a spring to brake and then next thing you know the trailer becomes immoveable lol!

I do road this trailer!

In 2022 I went to a slightly shorter, narrower tire on both sides since the tires I was using were both getting down there tread wise but mostly because they were AT tread and were more dry rotted

This made pulling behind my 1/2 ton f150 a little easier since its not as wide and being HT it just makes it quieter /smoother. Still load range E for a tire, overkill for what I do.
The obnoxious john deere yellow is because I have a lot of it , and I used hardener. I figured a bright ass yellow tailgate on black bed makes for a more obvious thing, that someone behind me pays attention. I still use magnetic trailer lights which I stick in the old tail light spots. I eventually will get my taillights mounted under it which have reverse/ split turn and stop into separate lights/ running lights/ and have cages to protect the lenses

i want to replace the shocks on the trailer too, wonder if that will do anything practical for the road considering its got a pretty thick leaf pack

On Tuesday or Wednesday im going to pull it for the first time with my 2005 2500HD and see how it handles it

I also want to pull the pumpkin cover on this trailer, and swap it with the one on the 2500HD, because The older covers are nicer looking in my opinion, and my dorman cover on the 2500HD is quite rusty. Id use the time to put that vent in, see what kind of gears are in the trailer, and if worth using ever, and inspect the G80 components on the 2500HD