Car Hauler tips/tricks/ideas

I drove myself nuts for over a month looking for a good trailer. I wanted one that was a bit overkill for what I needed, so I wouldn't have any worries about it handling whatever I want to do with it. I have more than enough truck to pull one with so I was looking at 10k gvwr ones and even 24' OAL.

I went back an forth a bunch over brands, new or used etc but wound up with this new 22' Rice 9.9k car hauler. Pretty happy with it so far, about the only thing I didn't get that I wanted was a steel deck. 5200 lb brake axles, 10 ply tires, rear ramps, fully powdercoated etc. I honestly think with the current prices these are a really good value for what you spend.



I want to add a 9k or so winch but have it removable for storage (it's hard on them sitting out in the elements) and found this winch plate. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Deta...YGRGzgak_lmeWIwSBJ8VRkSWmw9iO9BQaAkG2EALw_wcB

Any thoughts on that or mounting with the wood deck? I don't want to put it on the tounge as I'd have to replace the box that's already there. I don't do any offroading so I don't really need the capability to hook it to a truck either.

Other than that, all I've done so far is by straps and some stake pocket d-ring adapters. I had a trailer with my pervious business (20' 7k steel deck) that I always had tire issues and other gripes about so thats why I might of went a bit overboard with this one. I did full length e-trac on it for over tire straps and that was my plan again but I'm thinking that for more functionality on this trailer I might skip that. It has d-rings in the front an with axle straps an the stake pocket adapter for the rear I think that'll be sufficient for vehicle tie down anyhow. It does suck getting under to strap (mainly because I'm not getting any younger) them but the e-trac can cause loading issues with other items too.



Let me know what you guys use to make things easier or mistakes you figured out the hard way!

Nice looking trailer, I know I've heard good things about Rice.

Here is my winch mount on my 16 footer:

Harbor freight step bumper receiver welded to the rail and braced to the header below. The winch (12klb badland with synthetic cable kit) is on a receiver mount. Slide in, pin in and done.

I did a chop job on the tongue box by sectioning the center 2" inward to clear the mount.


I'm not an offroad guy either, but having the ability to throw the winch in any 2" receiver comes in handy for moving/dragging stuff around.

Hopefully your stake pocket adapters fit better than the ones my friend has. Part of the issue is most trailers we use have smashed up stake pockets, but mine are not. Way too tight. Like hammered in and out tight.

Got my d-rings in. They fit how they are suppose to I guess. They definitely don't have to be hammered in. They have a 5400 lb WLL.

I know nothing about trailers but it looks like you scored a good one

Rad trailer…

I know you said you don’t want to put the winch on the tongue but you could easily fit one inside the box closest to the deck. It would be out of the weather there.

Here’s the way dad fabbed up his trailer winch, usually the spare tire tucks down on top of it

CalSgt said:

Rad trailer…

I know you said you don’t want to put the winch on the tongue but you could easily fit one inside the box closest to the deck. It would be out of the weather there.

Here’s the way dad fabbed up his trailer winch, usually the spare tire tucks down on top of it

Click to expand...

That's pretty much what the guy at the trailer place said most people do. I don't hate that idea but with the way the box slopes down I'll lose most of the storage in there if that's where I put it. I also kinda hate to spend more money on a bigger box.

After considering what @legopnuematic posted I'm thinking of going that route. The front rail on mine is just sheet metal though so I can't weld it onto that an I don't want to mess up the powder coat.

I'm thinking about something like this...



Send the bolts all the way through the wood an out the bottom of the channel. Should be plenty for what I'll do. 1/2 grade 8 shear is like 16k lbs an there will be 4 of them.

Worst case I'm pulling a vehicle with a flat or two, it'll still be rolling some anyhow. I'm only planning a 9k winch max, if not a 5k. Just depends on what/who has the best sale

I’ve had my trailer for a long time and I still keep telling myself that I need to have 8-10 “D” rings added to it. You can’t have enough tie down points and stake pockets along the sides aren’t really positioned good for strapping down a car or truck.

My next round of ratchet straps will be USA made from a company in Tx (can’t remember the name) that have a length of chain instead of nylon strap on the anchor hook.

I have a “easy-up” ramp from Tractor Supply in case I need to change a tire (drive the good tire up on the ramp and it will get the dead tire high enough to change, no jacking from under the trailer), lug wrench too.

Invest in a high end tongue lock, get one that encloses the hitch with a lock in a pocket. For years I used a lock that had a U bolt style lock but the key cylinder failed recently and it only took one hit with a hammer to break it off.

This idea is going on the square, so I can winch my 2 wheel drive a$$ out of something if I need to. More for moving stuff around or out in inclement weather and get into trouble than any wheeling action. Wife's hardbody is for that, which needs a front receiver treatment as well. If I get a good trailer, this will happen too.
It's nice to see other people implement an idea I've kicked around in my mental fab shop for far too long.

nvrenuf said:

I’ve had my trailer for a long time and I still keep telling myself that I need to have 8-10 “D” rings added to it. You can’t have enough tie down points and stake pockets along the sides aren’t really positioned good for strapping down a car or truck.

My next round of ratchet straps will be USA made from a company in Tx (can’t remember the name) that have a length of chain instead of nylon strap on the anchor hook.

I have a “easy-up” ramp from Tractor Supply in case I need to change a tire (drive the good tire up on the ramp and it will get the dead tire high enough to change, no jacking from under the trailer), lug wrench too.

Invest in a high end tongue lock, get one that encloses the hitch with a lock in a pocket. For years I used a lock that had a U bolt style lock but the key cylinder failed recently and it only took one hit with a hammer to break it off.

Click to expand...

It does need some more d rings for sure. I don't understand why it doesn't have at least 2 on the rear somewhere. I cross my straps so they seem to do OK going to the pockets on the rear.

I just ordered some 8' snap hook ones from us cargo to replace the 27' harbor freight wire hook. I'll keep those in there for non vehicle stuff but I'm always worried they will come loose since they are just a hook.

A spare tire assy, one of those ramp jacks are on my list too. I have a foldable lug wrench somewhere.

Security plans are: proven industries locking coupler, I'll sacrifice a ball by cutting the shank off so no one can use a 2 or 1 7/8 to set it on. Their adjustable hitch lock to prevent someone from just removing the locking one. A lock to use on the safety chains and finally some pewag chain to secure a wheel to the frame so that in the case they have a solution for the first 3, they have a non rolling wheel to deal with too. All this is gonna run about $700 though, just to try an slow them down some

I also found a company called hub lock but it seems they are still in development but I like the looks of it too. My lot is somewhat secluded from the main road and gated so I'm hoping it won't be an issue. At the moment it just has a HF tounge lock that fits badly an would probably break off with a 16 oz hammer and standard chain through a wheel.

bluex said:

That's pretty much what the guy at the trailer place said most people do. I don't hate that idea but with the way the box slopes down I'll lose most of the storage in there if that's where I put it. I also kinda hate to spend more money on a bigger box.

After considering what @legopnuematic posted I'm thinking of going that route. The front rail on mine is just sheet metal though so I can't weld it onto that an I don't want to mess up the powder coat.

I'm thinking about something like this...

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Send the bolts all the way through the wood an out the bottom of the channel. Should be plenty for what I'll do. 1/2 grade 8 shear is like 16k lbs an there will be 4 of them.

Worst case I'm pulling a vehicle with a flat or two, it'll still be rolling some anyhow. I'm only planning a 9k winch max, if not a 5k. Just depends on what/who has the best sale

Click to expand...

That's similar to my setup, although I have the receiver plate welded to the trailer.

Put the stake pocket adapters to work today. Seem to do just fine. I also used them to winch the Tahoe on the trailer with a come-a- long. Man that is to much work



I also picked up a step bumper receiver, but the way the trailer is built at the front is going to make it kinda difficult to mount like I wanted. I think I'm going to have to make a plate to bridge the first two crossmembers and mount the receiver to that.

@bluex be very careful strapping to anything above the axles, the suspension can still cycle as the trailer goes over bumps etc causing those straps to have slack and possibly come loose.

The only way to successfully strap to anywhere above the suspension is to pull it down until it’s on the Bump stops.

nvrenuf said:

@bluex be very careful strapping to anything above the axles, the suspension can still cycle as the trailer goes over bumps etc causing those straps to have slack and possibly come loose.

The only way to successfully strap to anywhere above the suspension is to pull it down until it’s on the Bump stops.

Click to expand...

That, and the rear straps hooked to the safety chain loops of the receiver hitch. Those things will tear surprisingly easy, especially when the suspension is still able to cycle over a big bump in the road.

You guys are right, I didn't go far with it an it was late and dark when I finally got it loaded so I was in a hurry. The only reason I did it that way was because I have the snap hook straps now so I knew they wouldn't fall off the rings if they did get slack.

I have axle straps an that's normally what I do I just opted for easy this time.

I also gave it the shake test an said "that's not going anywhere" so the universe was bound to keep it on there as well.

These through wheel straps popped up on Amazon this week for $36 so I thought I'd give them a try. It was/is just the strap an no ratchet. I actually like them, just need to pickup a pair of ratchet handles that have the hook straight on them for the rear. An maybe some softer covers if I ever have nicer wheels. The tounge box is pretty full now but I think I have enough straps for anything I might need to haul.




I also picked up a reciever winch mount, the reciever part an a 2' piece of 1/4" angle. Going to bolt the angle under the floor to the crossmember an then bolt the reciever to that through the floor. Had hopes to get that much done this weekend but looks like the weather isnt going to cooperate.