Header swap begins.

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

hey mister

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2024
Posts
162
Reaction score
423
Location
North Coast
First Name
Marty
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
350
I've been planning the header project for a few months now.
I've been spraying PB Blaster on the manifold bolts on and off for a few weeks. They are original. Yea, it smokes for a couple miles and stinks, but it has paid off. Using only a Ridgid sub compact 3/8" electric impact driver, all 12 spun right off on the #2 of 4 power setting. No problemo.
Flange bolts will be tomorrow.
But there may be a snafu.
Between the spark plugs and the manifold is a thin sheet metal heat shield. 2 on each side. With the manifold loose, they are not. I can not see under them to see if something is holding them on the block, but they feel/act like they are attached. Taking the manifolds off without removing them is not going to happen.
After looking thru all 4 of my manuals, I can find no reference to them.
So the question for the collective is this:
Are they attached to the block?
How do they get removed?
Thanks guys for the replies.
 

Attachments

  • 20240714_193101.jpg
    20240714_193101.jpg
    249.5 KB · Views: 31

PrairieDrifter

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2014
Posts
3,712
Reaction score
5,240
Location
North Dakota
First Name
Mason
Truck Year
84,79,77,76,70,48
Truck Model
Suburban k10, bonanza k10, k30, k20, c10, gmc 1/2ton
Engine Size
350, 350, 350, 350, 350, 350
I've been planning the header project for a few months now.
I've been spraying PB Blaster on the manifold bolts on and off for a few weeks. They are original. Yea, it smokes for a couple miles and stinks, but it has paid off. Using only a Ridgid sub compact 3/8" electric impact driver, all 12 spun right off on the #2 of 4 power setting. No problemo.
Flange bolts will be tomorrow.
But there may be a snafu.
Between the spark plugs and the manifold is a thin sheet metal heat shield. 2 on each side. With the manifold loose, they are not. I can not see under them to see if something is holding them on the block, but they feel/act like they are attached. Taking the manifolds off without removing them is not going to happen.
After looking thru all 4 of my manuals, I can find no reference to them.
So the question for the collective is this:
Are they attached to the block?
How do they get removed?
Thanks guys for the replies.
They are attached just above the pan rail. With I believe one bolt per shield. Maybe two.

There are different versions, some mounted to the manifold bolts.
 

hey mister

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2024
Posts
162
Reaction score
423
Location
North Coast
First Name
Marty
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
350
They are attached just above the pan rail. With I believe one bolt per shield. Maybe two.

There are different versions, some mounted to the manifold bolts.
Thank you for your reply.
In the dark, I just crawled under with a light and sure enuf I found the 2 bolts that holds each one in place.

How in the heck does one get a wrench in there?
It looks like I have remove motor mounts and a starter to get to them.
Tell me there's a secret to getting them out...please.
 

PrairieDrifter

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2014
Posts
3,712
Reaction score
5,240
Location
North Dakota
First Name
Mason
Truck Year
84,79,77,76,70,48
Truck Model
Suburban k10, bonanza k10, k30, k20, c10, gmc 1/2ton
Engine Size
350, 350, 350, 350, 350, 350
Thank you for your reply.
In the dark, I just crawled under with a light and sure enuf I found the 2 bolts that holds each one in place.

How in the heck does one get a wrench in there?
It looks like I have remove motor mounts and a starter to get to them.
Tell me there's a secret to getting them out...please.
Just bend them. No one uses those things anymore. Most of them were long gone by the 90's already. Either get a stubby flex head in there, or a flex head ratcheting wrench.
 

hey mister

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2024
Posts
162
Reaction score
423
Location
North Coast
First Name
Marty
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
350
What makes you think the manifolds won't come off with them attached?
The frame rail keeps the manifold from being pulled away from the block and the shield keeps them from moving up or down.
I've tried to move the manifolds, they are trapped in place.
 

hey mister

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2024
Posts
162
Reaction score
423
Location
North Coast
First Name
Marty
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
350
Just bend them. No one uses those things anymore. Most of them were long gone by the 90's already. Either get a stubby flex head in there, or a flex head ratcheting wrench.
Ahh, brute force.
Ok.
My thoughts were to not destroy them, but if I want the manifolds off there may not be a choice short of pulling the motor....let's not do that.
 

PrairieDrifter

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2014
Posts
3,712
Reaction score
5,240
Location
North Dakota
First Name
Mason
Truck Year
84,79,77,76,70,48
Truck Model
Suburban k10, bonanza k10, k30, k20, c10, gmc 1/2ton
Engine Size
350, 350, 350, 350, 350, 350
Ahh, brute force.
Ok.
My thoughts were to not destroy them, but if I want the manifolds off there may not be a choice short of pulling the motor....let's not do that.
You can try and fight em from underneath. But that's your choice.
 

hey mister

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2024
Posts
162
Reaction score
423
Location
North Coast
First Name
Marty
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
350
Next question:
My power steering pump has a top bracket which shares a bolt with the #1 manifold exhaust port.
I know I need much shorter bolts for the headers. Is there a specific bolt for that PS bracket?
Or is "fudge-it" the norm?
Thanks again, guys.
 

legopnuematic

Licensed Junk Dealer
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2016
Posts
2,181
Reaction score
5,152
Location
MO
First Name
Spencer
Truck Year
1971, 1̶9̶7̶4, 1976, 1979,1̶9̶8̶5, 2002
Truck Model
Dart Swinger, Sierra 10, C10 Cheyenne, C10 Big Ten, Silverado 10, Ram 2500
Engine Size
225/6, 350 c.i., 350 c.i., 5.9l Cummins
Pretty standard is making a spacer, either make a solid spacer from some tubing or pipe, or make a stack of washers/nuts
 

idahovette

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2016
Posts
7,023
Reaction score
15,218
Location
Weiser Idaho
First Name
Perry
Truck Year
1975-1979
Truck Model
K20-K10
Engine Size
350
The sleeves on the front disc brake calipers are just about the right size??
 

PrairieDrifter

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2014
Posts
3,712
Reaction score
5,240
Location
North Dakota
First Name
Mason
Truck Year
84,79,77,76,70,48
Truck Model
Suburban k10, bonanza k10, k30, k20, c10, gmc 1/2ton
Engine Size
350, 350, 350, 350, 350, 350
Make a spacer. Dont hack the bracket. Then you can use the old bolt length for that hole.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
43,422
Posts
935,298
Members
35,275
Latest member
OurDually
Top