Shocks are like steel bars.

Dano500 · Jul 12, 2024

Bumps and potholes are so jarring, really does seem like steel bars instead of shocks, and so loud! I know it’s is old and rickety, but geez. Background info- the truck has 3” blocks front and back and what I think are original, or at least old, stock height shocks, so over extended and maybe they seize at 35/40, but not at 10/15mph? I looked at spring bushings, but I don’t know how to tell if they are bad. They look to be in place. I already replaced swaybar bushings and because of front blocks, sway bar is practically horizontal.

I’m looking for advice on what I’m thinking of doing to find out if I am overlooking anything.
1. Buy springs & remove blocks
2. Shocks

That’s it. lol

Am I missing something?

TIA,
-Dan

nvrenuf · Jul 12, 2024

#1. Front blocks are BAD and illegal in many cities / states.

#2. I’d bet you’re feeling the front suspension bottom out on the bump stops since there not much room between stock front springs and the bumps.

#3. Get a real lift kit (see #1), Tuff Country is typically the best riding off the shelf lift kit.

#4. A square body will never ride as good as a newer Silverado, come to terms with the fact it will always ride harsh.

Grit dog · Jul 12, 2024

Gotta figure out what’s making it jarring.
Not likely shocks. They are usually good or blown. They don’t get stiffer. But that’s easy to diagnose. Disconnect front or rear and go for a ride.
Rear springs will be rough. Period.
Fronts could be bottoming out but you can see evidence of that. And you’d likely know if they were bottoming out.
What about your new tires? Your size Should be maybe 40-45 psi front, 30ish in the rear for decent ride and safe proper pressure for an empty truck.

Otherwise, try softer springs? Mine rides like a fckin brick with 4 wheels. Even with squishy tires, nice soft shocks and nothing bound up. If it was a daily driver, both would be replaced with something softer. Fronts at a minimum.

Dano500 · Jul 12, 2024

Grit dog said:
Gotta figure out what’s making it jarring.
Not likely shocks. They are usually good or blown. They don’t get stiffer. But that’s easy to diagnose. Disconnect front or rear and go for a ride.
Rear springs will be rough. Period.
Fronts could be bottoming out but you can see evidence of that. And you’d likely know if they were bottoming out.
What about your new tires? Your size Should be maybe 40-45 psi front, 30ish in the rear for decent ride and safe proper pressure for an empty truck.

Otherwise, try softer springs? Mine rides like a fckin brick with 4 wheels. Even with squishy tires, nice soft shocks and nothing bound up. If it was a daily driver, both would be replaced with something softer. Fronts at a minimum.

It doesn’t feel like there is any movement in suspension at all, the bump pads don’t look damaged/ work, so that is why I was wondering if the shocks could be seized, but idk. I can tell the tires have way more give than old ones. I’ll check tire pressure tomorrow. I’m going to Summit to get the springs and shocks tomorrow to at least get rid of blocks PO put on it, I just didn’t know if there was something else I should get. I know it won’t be a great ride, but this literally feels like steel bars. lol

Dano500 · Jul 12, 2024

nvrenuf said:
#1. Front blocks are BAD and illegal in many cities / states.

#2. I’d bet you’re feeling the front suspension bottom out on the bump stops since there not much room between stock front springs and the bumps.

#3. Get a real lift kit (see #1), Tuff Country is typically the best riding off the shelf lift kit.

#4. A square body will never ride as good as a newer Silverado, come to terms with the fact it will always ride harsh.

Yeah, I didn’t put them on, but hadn’t removed them because I hadn’t driven it much over the time I’ve been restoring it. Now that it’s ready, I want to, but this was way too harsh.

I don’t think it’s bottoming out because I don’t feel the nose drop with bumps, or potholes and the bump stops aren’t warm. No marks on top of spring.

I’m not expecting it to ride like a new truck, man, but I do know something is wrong here.

Dano500 · Jul 13, 2024

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Well, if all this doesn’t help, I’m gonna drive it off a cliff. Lol

nvrenuf · Jul 13, 2024

Dang, that was fast!

Turbo4whl · Jul 13, 2024

Dano500 said:
Bumps and potholes are so jarring, really does seem like steel bars instead of shocks, and so load!

Shocks that loose their oil will lock up and act like steel bars. May not be all of them. One locked shock effects the whole suspension.

waterpirate · Jul 14, 2024

I only drove my truck about 200 miles after the rough country lift was installed. It took another 2 to 3 hundred miles to break in the suspension. Be patient with your new install. It will take a while to be able to drive it without spilling your road soda.
Eric

Dano500 · Jul 14, 2024

nvrenuf said:
Dang, that was fast!

No, the parts are still staring at me, waiting for me to put themto work. lol I am siking myself up right now.

Turbo4whl said:
Shocks that loose their oil will lock up and act like steel bars. May not be all of them. One locked shock effects the whole suspension.

That's what I had read, and hoping it is, but the PO had put blocks up front, so that's why I bought the springs. I sure hope this works.

waterpirate said:
I only drove my truck about 200 miles after the rough country lift was installed. It took another 2 to 3 hundred miles to break in the suspension. Be patient with your new install. It will take a while to be able to drive it without spilling your road soda.
Eric

I'm good with that, as long as it doesn't feel and sound like a bomb is going off with every bump. lol

Dano500 · Jul 14, 2024

@Grit dog @Turbo4whl
It was the shocks. I disconnected them and took a little ride. Night and day difference.

Brban88 · Jul 15, 2024

I’ve had experience with stock spring stacks wherein the lower leaf will wear a “notch” into the leaf above it. This prevents the natural “slip” that’s supposed to exist between the leaves as they flex during normal use. The ride becomes incredibly stiff due to the fact that a fairly significant shock is required to force, or jar, the lower leaf out of the “notch”. I’ll bet if if you split the spring stack and inspect the lower side of the upper leaves your issue will become immediately apparent.

Good luck, enjoy the adventure!

Dano500 · Jul 16, 2024

Can someone tell me if this is acceptable? The people at summit have no clue about it. The sleeve is the width of the shackle, but as you can see, the leaf spring itself is not

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Rusty Nail · Jul 16, 2024

Dude.
I read the first post.
Just now.

Uhh. Remove the sway bar end links..they are limiting the shock travel see?

That's all you gotta do.
Fixed it for free

Report back after you REMOVE TWO NUTS.

DoubleDingo · Jul 16, 2024

Dano500 said:
@Grit dog @Turbo4whl
It was the shocks. I disconnected them and took a little ride. Night and day difference.

I was going to suggest that, and to simply replace them. had the same thing with my truck when I bought it. Rode like cr@p, loud, banging, miserable. Besides the read studs being loose, the shocks were basically frozen. Removed them, drove around, way bouncy, but no loud bangs and rode way better, just too bouncy and unsafe. Replaced them and like a new truck, kinda.

Shocks are like steel bars.

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