Squarebody chassis swap build help: Were there any exterior differences between 81-87, 2wd/4wd and weight classes (c10, k30, etc)

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CaptainDude

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Long time reader, new member. Looking for some wisdom for my build. My plan is doing a chassis swap, finding a crew cab square body and putting it on my current 03 lb7 crew cab shortbed chassis, and stretching the frame to fit a longbed.

Something i'm wondering is were there any differences between the years and weight classes that I need to verify before I buy the square body parts? I can't find an entire crew cab longbed in decent condition without taking out another mortgage, but I have found a few c30 dooleys with rusted out frames and beds but the body is fine. I'm just wondering if I can pair a 82 k20 long bed, with a 86 c30 dooley cab, and a 85 k10 front clip for example, and have all the body lines and mounts all line up correctly without having to double check.

Were there any differences I should look into before I go on a part buying spree?

Also curious about the 89-91 classic bodies (blazers, suburbans, and one-tons I believe) and if they are also identical apart from the obvious differences (other than the front headlights and grille)

I'm aware of the interior differences through the years, steering columns, AC dash, etc. I'm not worried about that since i'm going to have the whole interior apart anyway I can just mix and match all the flavors I want, I'm just worried about stuff I would absolutely need to address or double check before buying.

If there anything else I should keep in mind feel free to mention it.

For anyone wondering the lb7 frame is in very good condition but the body isn't as great. Planning on stripping it down and sanding/repainting and freshen up the lb7 while the body's off, as well as completely go through the squarebody and spend a lot of time getting the interior immaculate and brand new.

Appreciate the help.
 

PrairieDrifter

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Everything body mounting and lining up, should be the same. There's probably gonna be weird quirks, just little non important stuff, coolant and washer tanks and what not. Different options

Generally for mechanical and electrical it's 81-84 some things 81-83. Then 85-87, then 87-91. No changes between weight classes.

Main thing is make sure you get the correct core support for the grille and headlights you want. Quads, small quads, singles. Turn signals as well, basically what front end you want. Then you'll have to piece under hood stuff together, wiper and coolant overflow tank, single or dual battery.
 

CaptainDude

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Everything body mounting and lining up, should be the same. There's probably gonna be weird quirks, just little non important stuff, coolant and washer tanks and what not. Different options

Generally for mechanical and electrical it's 81-84 some things 81-83. Then 85-87, then 87-91. No changes between weight classes.

Main thing is make sure you get the correct core support for the grille and headlights you want. Quads, small quads, singles. Turn signals as well, basically what front end you want. Then you'll have to piece under hood stuff together, wiper and coolant overflow tank, single or dual battery.
Sweet, good to know about the body. Still not sure which front end I want but I have done face swaps before. I'm leaning towards the OBS style like the ones on the 89-91 square bodies.
 

75gmck25

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I have read in other posts that there are frame differences in the one ton trucks. I know the rear shock mounts are definitely different on a one ton, and others have said the frame is thicker in certain areas. However, I couldn't put my finger on any specific documents to verify.
 

PrairieDrifter

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350, 350, 350, 350, 350, 350
I have read in other posts that there are frame differences in the one ton trucks. I know the rear shock mounts are definitely different on a one ton, and others have said the frame is thicker in certain areas. However, I couldn't put my finger on any specific documents to verify.
That is correct. That doesn't change body mounting though
 

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