Does anyone make 17" aluminum 4x4 Rally wheels?

Buicknut said:

@Redfish ^ ^ ^

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sorry, been busy.

Those are the factory Rally Wheels for a 1/2 ton 4wd. Someone else may know better than me but I think they are 15x8.

The tires are 33x12.50.

I try to share what I did to my truck without telling other folks "You MUST do the same thing I did!" I wanted this truck to look like it would have if I had owned it back in 1987 and had the money to make it exactly like I wanted it then. I like the look of the wide mud grips even though we always ran the narrower Q-78 Buckshot Mudders. I probably would not have kept the Rally wheels back then, the mud does not play well with the stainless beauty rings.

Grit dog said:

That may be one of my aversions to them. But never liked the look at all. One of GMs poor decisions in wheels. Who tf is using 16x6 wheels on their flagship HD trucks all the way into the 2010s? Was like a slap in the face penalty for all Duramax buyers for the first 10 years. Spend big bucks on our truck and still have to get wheels to run bigger/wider or heavier duty tires…

And I wouldn’t consider them rally wheels.

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Oh man, there's no better look than those narrow PY0s and some meaty 315/75/16s 'cept for maybe some LMM 5 spoke 20s

I like the factory Rally wheels a lot aside from only being available on 1/2 tons. I will say that the trim ring retainer tabs have been the bane of my existence in some cases. I’m about to just rtv one on. Odds are I’ll be able to rip the trim ring back off when it’s time to change tires again.

TotalyHucked said:

Oh man, there's no better look than those narrow PY0s and some meaty 315/75/16s 'cept for maybe some LMM 5 spoke 20s

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I ran some 34 inch super swampers on some PY0s once. Being a GMT800, I had to put a leveling kit on the front end and shave the bumper skirt a little. The truck handled like a boat at highway speeds but the stance looked awesome and that truck could make it through mud holes and ditches that it had no business going through.

CheemsK1500 said:

I ran some 34 inch super swampers on some PY0s once. Being a GMT800, I had to put a leveling kit on the front end and shave the bumper skirt a little. The truck handled like a boat at highway speeds but the stance looked awesome and that truck could make it through mud holes and ditches that it had no business going through.

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I've had 7 GMT800s, mostly leveled 4x4s but also one stock 2wd Tahoe and a lowered 2wd Yukon. I've only gotten stuck once and it was a much deeper hole than I thought lol. They're probably the best generation truck GM ever built

TotalyHucked said:

I've had 7 GMT800s, mostly leveled 4x4s but also one stock 2wd Tahoe and a lowered 2wd Yukon. I've only gotten stuck once and it was a much deeper hole than I thought lol. They're probably the best generation truck GM ever built

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Totally agree. I’ve had a few as well driven the GMT900s and post 2013-2019 “K2” trucks. I still prefer the 800 to both of them.

The 800 is new enough to have an engine engineered specifically for TBI use and not just a retrofitted small block like the late production squares and GMT-400s had. It’s also generally extremely easy maintenance as well. Things like headlight bulb changes and headlight switch replacement are either tool free or require very minimal tools and have very little hardware to get lost.

CheemsK1500 said:

Totally agree. I’ve had a few as well driven the GMT900s and post 2013-2019 “K2” trucks. I still prefer the 800 to both of them.

The 800 is new enough to have an engine engineered specifically for TBI use and not just a retrofitted small block like the late production squares and GMT-400s had. It’s also generally extremely easy maintenance as well. Things like headlight bulb changes and headlight switch replacement are either tool free or require very minimal tools and have very little hardware to get lost.

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I just wish they would've kept the accelerator cable, like the first 2 or 3 years had.
Don't care too much for drive by wire.

CheemsK1500 said:

Totally agree. I’ve had a few as well driven the GMT900s and post 2013-2019 “K2” trucks. I still prefer the 800 to both of them.

The 800 is new enough to have an engine engineered specifically for TBI use and not just a retrofitted small block like the late production squares and GMT-400s had. It’s also generally extremely easy maintenance as well. Things like headlight bulb changes and headlight switch replacement are either tool free or require very minimal tools and have very little hardware to get lost.

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GMT 800s don't have TBI. GM dropped TBI the end of 1995.

Redfish said:

sorry, been busy.

Those are the factory Rally Wheels for a 1/2 ton 4wd. Someone else may know better than me but I think they are 15x8.

The tires are 33x12.50.

I try to share what I did to my truck without telling other folks "You MUST do the same thing I did!" I wanted this truck to look like it would have if I had owned it back in 1987 and had the money to make it exactly like I wanted it then. I like the look of the wide mud grips even though we always ran the narrower Q-78 Buckshot Mudders. I probably would not have kept the Rally wheels back then, the mud does not play well with the stainless beauty rings.

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Yes truck Rallyes as far as I know are 15x8. 5 or 6 lug....and I agree, anything extra on a wheel, is no fun to clean!

CheemsK1500 said:

Totally agree. I’ve had a few as well driven the GMT900s and post 2013-2019 “K2” trucks. I still prefer the 800 to both of them.

The 800 is new enough to have an engine engineered specifically for TBI use and not just a retrofitted small block like the late production squares and GMT-400s had. It’s also generally extremely easy maintenance as well. Things like headlight bulb changes and headlight switch replacement are either tool free or require very minimal tools and have very little hardware to get lost.

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I agree with you on the headlights being easy to service on the 800s. Our Denali liked to burn out at least one 9005 bulb a year, more if we did a lot of night driving. One time was in Austin coming back to the motel after load out from the Roundup, in pouring rain. This was in the Before Times, so wally world was open and I could go get a bulb and replace it in the parking lot. So I was glad to just have to pull those two L bars, a simple job.
If you have the correct size nutdriver, the 400 composite headlight is easy to remove too. IIRC it's a 5mm(been a while since I swapped in the new bulbs on the crew cab). A long awl or narrow screwdriver is handy for lining up the holes, but you can run it with only one of the bolts. Did that for a while when I could not get the second one to line up the top and bottom holes....
And I'm old enough to have changed many of the sealed beams on our vehicles; difficulty and speed of repairs depends on how much trim is in the way and how many tools are required for the complete job. I remember the older squares with only a Phillips needed. Then the square eyes with a torx T15 and the Phillips.....

Redfish said:

sorry, been busy.

Those are the factory Rally Wheels for a 1/2 ton 4wd. Someone else may know better than me but I think they are 15x8.

The tires are 33x12.50.

I try to share what I did to my truck without telling other folks "You MUST do the same thing I did!" I wanted this truck to look like it would have if I had owned it back in 1987 and had the money to make it exactly like I wanted it then. I like the look of the wide mud grips even though we always ran the narrower Q-78 Buckshot Mudders. I probably would not have kept the Rally wheels back then, the mud does not play well with the stainless beauty rings.

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There is nothing better on the Shorty 4x4s than the Rally wheel. The long bed 4x4 looks best with Q78 Mudders. The Blazers and Jimmys look best with at least a 15x8 or 10 Rally or a set of slotted mags, which I am trying to decide for my Jimmy right now.

Nothing stock will look right to narrow it the 8 lug

In my opinion I like 10" wide wheels it going to be your choice of after market wheels you could do a steel wheel 10" wide and run beauty rings and dog dish hubcaps no center caps

calredneck said:

In my opinion I like 10" wide wheels it going to be your choice of after market wheels you could do a steel wheel 10" wide and run beauty rings and dog dish hubcaps no center caps

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The problem is it is stock height and I really want 10" but the truck is too nice to cut and trim.

Buicknut said:

The problem is it is stock height and I really want 10" but the truck is too nice to cut and trim.

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Skinny wheels can be made to look nice too. You should be able to get away with using 33 inch tires on stock or stock sized wheels without having to resort to shaving and lift kits.