This is the type of seal I'm referring to.
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Upgraded 14 bolt hub seals.
If you have constantly leaking hub seals or a pitted/damaged seal surface, these hub seals are your answer. This is a two part seal: the inner "ring" slides over the seal surface on the spindle and seals it, no moving...
When I get to that point, I'll see how the 2 piece seal fits on the spindle. They are supposed to lock on the spindle and the hub side is pressed in which stays put as well. The seals are designed to move inside each other. From what I've read, this is what the factory has gone to on the newer...
I may try the 2 piece seal first on one side and see how that goes. Maybe the Yukon seals were just low quality. Truck has 33,000 miles since it was all put in. Started weeping just before 30,000. It may be a case of low quality stuff but finding good quality is pretty hard with name buyouts and...
Did some searching and really didn't see an answer to this so I figured I'd ask as I'm sure some have gone through this. Both hub seals are leaking and it's a 1978 K30 14 bolt full floater with a 10 1/2" ring gear. spindle hub DOES have some grooving. When I regeared it 10 years ago I moved the...
With as much access as you have to the top rivets to put new ones in, no reason to fight trying to get that in with it together. I'd lay money the factory riveted them after too. Once I did it that way I wondered whether the weatherstrip manufacturer avoided saying to do that in hopes of people...
We special ordered a single wheel K30 cab and chassis in 1978 and it had the 2 piece driveshaft. Had a 350 with a TH400 automatic trans. with standard long bed wheelbase. We had nothing but problems with the 2 piece as the shaft would lock on the splines of the carrier bearing and force it to...
Life has a way of slowing you down but got the k30 back together and just took it for a test run. No leaks, shifted fine and everything works so that is a win to me. 38.5" Boggers with a homemade 2 inch body lift and reworked the front fenders for more clearance. The will be a work truck and...
The way their video shows is the hard way. Here is what works WAY easier. This method can be done quicker without the fighting. Drill out the 2 rivets at the top of the frame that holds it together. They are out in the open and super easy to replace. Once that is done, push in the top section...
I just did this on my project truck and I'll relay what I found. I used the local farm store (Tractor Supply Company) paint and it was around $30.00/gal. Using the mini roller I used it does leave it pretty rough. If you want to cut and buff( wet sand and buff out), you need to do at LEAST 2...
More the time involved as i did all the work. No powdercoat on it, it is all paint I sprayed. You guys may like the frame. Only one crossmember was stock, the rest were modified or strengthened. All unused holes were welded shut and smoothed. Inside of frame looks like the outside. Did it over a...
Hadn't thought of a Spring sag but odd it would be on just one side. Something to look for. The Driver side fender is just closer to tire(meaning down more). There is a reason for as little lift as possible. I did make a 2 inch body lift and it is on. The truck will be a wood hauler. I'm making...
Building a work truck and got the cab back on and threw the front end on just for grins. Wanted to see the tire clearance. Cab had basically everything replaced underneath. I'm going to run 38 1/2" Boggers and don't want any more lift. I'm cutting the fenders. My question is should the tire to...