Tire/wheel recommendations

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bucket

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Lol. I must be dreaming every time I see a wheel spec that has offset listed….
Anyone? I must be the only one.

Unless I'm reading this wrong (which is very possible), you completely missed my point.
 

Scruffy49

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You going for classic bias ply tires or a more modern style radial tire?
Bias ply only has 2 answers left, Gateway Bias Buckshots at 34ish inches tall, or sky is the limit Interco offerings. You could get 9.00-16LT Power Kings until a couple years ago, great tire, but, gone now.
Modern? I like either a 3 peak rated AT like the Goodyear Wrangler Authority (16-20” available) or a budget friendly mudder like Roverclaws.
Regardless of what I get, they burn up pretty quickly. Chip seal roads, rough pastures, heavy stock trailers…
 

bucket

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You going for classic bias ply tires or a more modern style radial tire?
Bias ply only has 2 answers left, Gateway Bias Buckshots at 34ish inches tall, or sky is the limit Interco offerings. You could get 9.00-16LT Power Kings until a couple years ago, great tire, but, gone now.
Modern? I like either a 3 peak rated AT like the Goodyear Wrangler Authority (16-20” available) or a budget friendly mudder like Roverclaws.
Regardless of what I get, they burn up pretty quickly. Chip seal roads, rough pastures, heavy stock trailers…

There are still more bias plies available than that, you just gotta look around a bit. STA is one of the common ones.

You are definitely correct about those 9.00 Power Kings though. There ain't NONE left anywhere.
 

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Unless I'm reading this wrong (which is very possible), you completely missed my point.
Or maybe I missed your point which is also possible. And not that backspacing isn’t the simple description of wheel position relative to the hub. But that many wheels are only listed with offset so at some point there’s a little math to be done. Regardless
And yes max allowable backspacing is a big consideration but only to the same extent as how much the wheel protrudes. The right backspacing isn’t the one determining factor. Could have the right bs and a wheel is too wide to clear stuff on the outside too.
Anyway good discussion @bucket.
 

WRW86

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The problem with having only the offset, is that you have to assume the extra 1/2" (or so) of flange width because an 8" wheel is measured from inside bead to bead on the wheel and the backspace is measured to the outside of the wheel. A 4" backspace on an 8" wheel is not zero offset.
 

bucket

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Or maybe I missed your point which is also possible. And not that backspacing isn’t the simple description of wheel position relative to the hub. But that many wheels are only listed with offset so at some point there’s a little math to be done. Regardless
And yes max allowable backspacing is a big consideration but only to the same extent as how much the wheel protrudes. The right backspacing isn’t the one determining factor. Could have the right bs and a wheel is too wide to clear stuff on the outside too.
Anyway good discussion @bucket.

Ok I think it's a combination of me not conveyed my thoughts good enough, as well as the fact that anywhere I've ever looked for wheels, the backspacing was listed as well. Often with no offset listing.

Here's how I look at it:

The allowable backspacing is known. Then I decide how wide I want the look of the wheel to be, which then determines how wide and tall of a tire I can run. OR, I know what tire size I would like to run and then choose a wheel width that will allow it to fit. I never run a wheel with less backspacing than there needs to be in order to meet my goals of tire fitment and looks. Wide wheels stick out, narrow ones should not, imho.

So let's say I'm looking at wheels that are 18x8, 18x9 and 18x10. There's no need to do offset math when comparing them, not only among those sizes, but among various brands where offset and backspacing may be different even within the same wheel width sizes. It's way more cut and dry to look at the backspacing spec. You can see the 5.5" (for example) backspacing spec and instantly determine that it ain't gonna work. Or you can look at the offset spec, then do math to figure out the same answer.
 

bucket

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The problem with having only the offset, is that you have to assume the extra 1/2" (or so) of flange width because an 8" wheel is measured from inside bead to bead on the wheel and the backspace is measured to the outside of the wheel. A 4" backspace on an 8" wheel is not zero offset.

That's another good point. It seems that some brands include the width of the wheel lip in their offset calculation, while others do not.
 

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Ok I think it's a combination of me not conveyed my thoughts good enough, as well as the fact that anywhere I've ever looked for wheels, the backspacing was listed as well. Often with no offset listing.

Here's how I look at it:

The allowable backspacing is known. Then I decide how wide I want the look of the wheel to be, which then determines how wide and tall of a tire I can run. OR, I know what tire size I would like to run and then choose a wheel width that will allow it to fit. I never run a wheel with less backspacing than there needs to be in order to meet my goals of tire fitment and looks. Wide wheels stick out, narrow ones should not, imho.

So let's say I'm looking at wheels that are 18x8, 18x9 and 18x10. There's no need to do offset math when comparing them, not only among those sizes, but among various brands where offset and backspacing may be different even within the same wheel width sizes. It's way more cut and dry to look at the backspacing spec. You can see the 5.5" (for example) backspacing spec and instantly determine that it ain't gonna work. Or you can look at the offset spec, then do math to figure out the same answer.
Sounds like you’re still hung up on that new fangled terminology and some notion that the math involved is somehow involved.
Or maybe haven’t shopped for aftermarket wheels or looked at the descriptor of OE wheels in decades. Backspacing is almost never used in the description. It is in “vintage” wheel type wheels though. Probably because more old people who are still grumpy about the metric system buy expensive wheels for old cars. But fun fact, it’s so easy. 0 offset is dead center and +\- in and out. Although need to convert mm to inches if that’s a hangup.
 

carnutjw

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I know this has been shared on the forum previously, but I really think it helps visualize what's going on with different sizes/offsets/gear ratios/etc.
May not be EXACTLY right but will give you something to start with.
 

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