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Just sticking a breaker in place of the fuse in this instance is not a fix,also a breaker in place of a fuse takes a little math due to the different rate of disconnect at least sometimes,maybe not always but say a 20 amp breaker may not disconnect quick enough to protect the wiring the same way a 20 amp fuse would.Addition to two previous posts- several companies make breakers that fit in ATC/ATO fuse holders.
These are the crimpers I would recommend: https://a.co/d/3jkjLDE
Totally. As with any wiring modification, one needs to look at the whole picture. Both ATC fuses and circuit breakers are well characterized and can be picked based on their data sheets. Even a Bussmann 20 amp ATC fuse needs to see almost 40 amps to pop in 1 second.Just sticking a breaker in place of the fuse in this instance is not a fix,also a breaker in place of a fuse takes a little math due to the different rate of disconnect at least sometimes,maybe not always but say a 20 amp breaker may not disconnect quick enough to protect the wiring the same way a 20 amp fuse would.
Thank you for this. What crimpers are ideal?FWIW, I was able to find all the factory fuse block housings and terminals. They are still available out there. Crimping the terminals is the hardest part and really sucks without the correct crimpers. They are old Delphi terminals. The wiring schematic in the back of a chiltons or haynes book will show wire color/guage.
I recently re-wired my entire engine harness with the factory stuff, and next will be tackling the under-hood front lighting section of the harness.
Also, this is cool, there are unused spots in the fuse block from the factory, and you can run any custom wiring through these open spots and back out another open spot. Keeps wiring all looking stock. Hit me up if you have any questions, it's all still pretty fresh in my head.
You could re-wire your entire truck for about half the cost of a kit, easily. Just buy the colors and guages you need in short lengths and build the harness yourself.