Draw-Tite 41938 Hitch

[Doppleganger]

I picked up one of these for my K20. All the hardware and any diagrams was missing (which I read is typical). Got the mounting instructions online. They show 4 holes each side to hang it on the frame. The pattern of 3 of the 4 holes resembled the holes on the frame - but apparently they dont match (width). They also claim this fits Chevy trucks from 1963-2011.

Was wondering if anyone here has this hitch and if you happen to have ANY pics of how you mounted it. I am going to ASSume you drilled holes in the frame? They did mention relocating the spare - which isn't happening. Before I go all out on reinventing the wheel with the mounting plates, I'd like to know how they think its supposed to mount to the frame. THX

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[Doppleganger]

I must be the first to ever own one.

Never mind.

 

[bucket]

Yeah, I mean most trucks with a hitch have had a hitch installed on them for decades.

I've removed hitches before with slotted holes in the frame, but I have no idea what brand they were.

 

[Originalthor]

I've put a couple on my 70s c10 and c20 and had to kinda slot the holes a little wider. Probably 1/4 inch or more. And had those big flat rectangular washers too. I think that's why there washers are so big.

I've bought 3 different hitches for my suburban and one has yet to fit or even come close. 2 supposed of came off suburbans. Drive me nuts. There all good width wise but the dip down on the frame kills me.

 

[Doppleganger]

The directions are vague "align with hole farthest back".....ok - the hole farthest back is more like a slot. The hole farthest forward didn't line up with anything (air). Was just hoping someone had a pic of it on theirs. There is an Amazon review with pics - very dark and bad angles.

Drawtite claims this particular hitch fits all chevy trucks from 1963 - 2011 (reviews say otherwise). LMAO I'm sure it will with enough fabbing.

Think I'm going to have to just hang the bumper and just see where it looks best. There will no doubt be modifications.

 

[skysurfer]

My truck came with a Draw-Tite already mounted. I just looked but couldn't find any numbers stamped on it, so I don't know if it's the same as yours. Might be different because this one is on a Suburban, but it does have three bolts on each side. As far as location, they just bolted it down as far back as it would go. The hitch frame is just a fraction of an inch from the bumper. I can post pics if you think it would help but we might be talking apples to oranges.

 

[85K304SPD]

People bring these hitches to our shop from time to time for us to "make them fit". I usually try to talk them out of it, unless its only a couple of holes to drill. I would say to modify the hitch, not the truck.

 

[TropicalSilverado]

I‘ve seen many squarebacks with these Draw-Tite hitches (including mine). Did some of them come factory or dealer installed?

 

[Craig 85]

Mines not a Draw-Tite, but a similar set up. Mine only has a total of 6 bolts. It was on the truck when I got it, but I can say they did not put it on square, It's just a hair off. On my K30 they used two holes at the rear of the frame, then probably drilled holes for the forward 4.

I bought a spare tire hanger, but could never get it to fit correctly with a 235/85R16 tire, so I abandoned the idea and sold it. The tire fits, but I coulding get the rear spare hanger to fit right. Part of the problem was how I wanted to route the tailpipes vs. how they were done. I believe this was due to it being a K30 vs a K20. I was able to route the exhaust out the sides on my '87 K20, but they were going to hang too low on the K30 (spring hanger location).

Here's a couple of pictures of the K30. The third is my old K20 with duals and a 235/85R16 spare under the bed.

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[Doppleganger]

Thanks for the pics. Mine is similar but different mounting points (I think).

Ridiculous that something as simple as a hitch now has to be a circus production also. As of now, here's my plan. The original instructions say the spare has to be relocated, which isn't happening. There are 4 bolts on each side that hang vertically on the frame. The first 3 have the same pattern (distance) as existing holes in the frame, but not the same width. No idea why 'model specific' hitches cant just bolt in.

My frame has a factory curve like area about where hole #4 is, so hole #4 lines up with nothing.....just air. There is nothing to mount it to if I wanted. In addition, the rearward 'arms' with those 4th holes, is what interferes with the spare. So what I am thinking is removing the #4 hole 'arms', which allows room for my Benz-esque spare rack to stay right where it is. If the hitch holes are close enough to the factory frame holes, I might slot them so they can be used. If not, then the possibility of removing the hitch mounting plates, making a new template that perfectly matches the frame's existing holes, and having new hitch plates welded on. Also - side plates welded on the hitch and then 2-4 bolts a side (horizontally) into the frame. This would wind up being (10-12) 5/8 bolts holding it directly to the frame. Cant see it going anywhere.

Gotta mock up my rear bumper to see where the bumper brackets go so not to interfere with the side plates. Also to see how/where the hitch sits in relation to the back of the bumper.

 

[Doppleganger]

When installing a hitch, does the rear tow hooks come off?

 

[Craig 85]

When installing a hitch, does the rear tow hooks come off?

None of my trucks have ever had tow hooks at the rear. The only issue I see with modifying the hitch by removing the arms and installing side plates is all the load ends up at the end of the frame. The longer arms distribute more weight to the front of the truck.

I took some picture of my truck today so you can see how it's mounted. When I tried to install my spare tire mount, the issue was near the rear bumper, not by the axle. I'm sure if I wanted to spend the time to have a custom bracket done, I could have made it work.

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[Doppleganger]

None of my trucks have ever had tow hooks at the rear. The only issue I see with modifying the hitch by removing the arms and installing side plates is all the load ends up at the end of the frame. The longer arms distribute more weight to the front of the truck.

I took some picture of my truck today so you can see how it's mounted. When I tried to install my spare tire mount, the issue was near the rear bumper, not by the axle. I'm sure if I wanted to spend the time to have a custom bracket done, I could have made it work.

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The pics are awesome - thanks very much!

Not sure how they rank hitches (class 3, 4, 5 , etc). There was a hitch I wanted but could never locate its PN. It had separate side mount plates that bolted on - but no long arms. I had seen it listed as both a Class 4 and Class 5 (same way with the one I have). Wanted that one as I could see myself making custom side mount plates. The full size 33" spare is whats in the way with the arms and such. Most I can ever see me hauling is around 8,000 lbs. If I were to remove the arms, maybe add a flat bar to connect the hitch to a point further forward on the frame? The steel would be the same 1/4 - 3/8 plate used on the hitch.

 

[dusterdude]

You wouod think with trucks that are 40 to 50 years old,someone could make a hitch that fits

 

[Craig 85]

I’ve seen hitches like the one you diagramed. Most of those are for F-450/550 or the old Chevy C3500HD (1991-02).

There’s probably no issues with having the shorter hitch, it was just a problem in my Suburban 2500 group. 2000-06 Suburbans can bend the frame right behind the spring hangers using the shirt factory hitch. Most people switch to the longer style as they reach back another 15” to resolve the problem.

The picture is where they bend. This guy was only backing up an admitted overloaded trailer. I’ve never seen this with truck frames.

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