rumblebox
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Burb is no-go - fuel pump or filter??
- Thread starter Daveo91Burb
- Start date
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Honky Kong jr
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Hey you all got me beat on this TBI stuff so I gotta puff myself up some how....LMMFAO. TBI usually will stay till it fuks with me then it's gone.lol although I didn't mind CPI once I got rid of the poppets and went MPI.
Big Brown
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Fuel filter. Mine did the same. No tak craziness but, pulled the filter, replaced and it was fine. I'm guessing I'll have to do it again in a few 1000 miles. I carry one on hand now
Cuba
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It does makes sense now... if the lack of fuel is having the engine revv all over, then of course the tach will be jumping all over.
Daveo91Burb
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Yeah I was thinking that too with the tach. Filter is first thing I'll try after checking for spark. I've had plenty of fuel filters go in other vehicles and this felt like those did
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Daveo91Burb
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Between my wife and I we have four vehicles and her sienna is the only one running without issues right now. I noticed Friday that my Vette had a loose rocker arm so I have valve covers off and am dealing with that (I have been having problems with the cheap poly locks so I'm replacing with Comp cams regular lock nuts). Also on Friday I noticed our Cruze was leaking coolant. Some internet research told me it's common for the water pump to leak and that GM extended the warranty for its replacement. Hopefully that will turn out ok. And then finally this morning the thing with the burb. When it rains it pours.
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I carry a spare fuel pump(inline), fuel filter, and ignition module just in case any of those go while on the road. Definately get pressure fixed first, then continue.
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Disconnect the TPS and crank it, does it start?
Daveo91Burb
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Nope. Still no start...
Daveo91Burb
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The plot thickens: no spark. tried multiple times to different grounds and nothing, no blue. So on to checking ignition.......
What's the failure mechanism with the wiring to the coil? I checked the bigger of the red wires on the black/gray connector duo (I think it was the gray one) - it has 12v when key is on RUN, which is what I was expecting. Anything else I should check at those connectors? I'm wondering if it's the coil itself? The fact that I could get it to run half-assed for a little bit before it died completely has me mystified. I've had the module go on my HEI (carb) Vette before and it was all at once. But maybe the coil could work a little before it dies completely?
I have a bunch of parts for my new motor that I'm building, including a complete rebuilt OEM TBI distributor, with module, and a new coil. I could put the new coil on first and see if that does anything?
What's the failure mechanism with the wiring to the coil? I checked the bigger of the red wires on the black/gray connector duo (I think it was the gray one) - it has 12v when key is on RUN, which is what I was expecting. Anything else I should check at those connectors? I'm wondering if it's the coil itself? The fact that I could get it to run half-assed for a little bit before it died completely has me mystified. I've had the module go on my HEI (carb) Vette before and it was all at once. But maybe the coil could work a little before it dies completely?
I have a bunch of parts for my new motor that I'm building, including a complete rebuilt OEM TBI distributor, with module, and a new coil. I could put the new coil on first and see if that does anything?
1987 GMC Jimmy
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^^^I second the ICM.
Cuba
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Well, it's a ground side switch to give spark (positive flow from little pink wire completes the circuit, if control ground is working)... so using an incandescent test light hooked to ground you should have pulse when cranking the engine at the BLACK connector (smaller wires) on the Ignition Coil, the WHITE wire is the control from ICM. When testing, leave the GRAY & BLACK connectors connected. You'll be backprobing or piercing through the wire to test.
If this pulses, you have a bad Ignition Coil
No pulse, bad ICM under dizzy.
You can also test for coil spark using the same Incandescent Test light connected to ground to verify spark out of the coil. NEEDS an AIR GAP, as in don't touch the tip of the test light to the coil output (goes to center of dizzy), just let it hover and you'll see the spark.
You may want to disconnect the injectors at the TBI so no fuel is emitted.
If this pulses, you have a bad Ignition Coil
No pulse, bad ICM under dizzy.
You can also test for coil spark using the same Incandescent Test light connected to ground to verify spark out of the coil. NEEDS an AIR GAP, as in don't touch the tip of the test light to the coil output (goes to center of dizzy), just let it hover and you'll see the spark.
You may want to disconnect the injectors at the TBI so no fuel is emitted.
Daveo91Burb
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Awesome, thanks for the great write up on test procedure. So just to be clear, back probe the small white wire or the small pink/red wire? Or does it matter?
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Cuba
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On the BLACK connector at coil, the small pink wire should be hot key on all the time.... the small white wire is the control from ICM, so this should pulse. It does matter.
The GRAY connector at the coil is different, its small WHITE wire is the Tach.
Like I said, unplug those injectors though, so you're not spraying fuel possibly flooding it.
The GRAY connector at the coil is different, its small WHITE wire is the Tach.
Like I said, unplug those injectors though, so you're not spraying fuel possibly flooding it.
