lay a heavy coat of citristrip on it. Then put saran wrap over it to keep it wet. Come back 24 hours later and see what you got. Can find it at walmart. Get one bottle and test if in doubt.
There is a post somewhere that shows how to upgrade the radiator using 88+'ish truck radiators. Some even included oil cooling. These were still copper/brass. @bucket @HotRodPC @89Suburban for a refresher hopefully.
I don't like plastic tanks personally, so I stuck with original on my swap...
if in doubt, run a positive and negative directly to the motor connection from a 12V battery. then reverse the wires just in case while ur there. Helps if you have an old plug to sacrifice to extend it out the door.
Try citristrip from walmart on a spot or 2. Brush the gel on a little thick, then put saran wrap over it so it doesn't dry out. Let it sit over night. Then try to brush/scrape it off.
[edit] if it's verticle, you may have to tape the saran wrap to the body so the gel won't flow off it if you...
@HotRodPC I know you put this up, but damn it's been years and probably hard to find. Thoughts? Might have been caster/camber though. Be a nice refresher lol.
Also, another way to test the wire thats getting hot is to ohm it out to the battery.
DISCONNECT THE BATTERY FIRST. Then put one meter lead on the positive connector that connects to the battery, then put the other lead on that wire thats getting hot. It should be close to zero with the key...
sounds like you have a wire/connection thats about to break. Imagine it like too small a wire for something that draws a lot of power. Follow it back and check for wire pinches, corrosion....anything that would cause it to not be a solid run.
Also, you might be running too much on that one...
if you have the range selector unplugged on the trans, there's 2 wires I believe that need to be connected together on the ECM. Check the LT1swap chart and it should say it. Something in the nature if "if no range sensor" do this.