Yet Another Starter Diagnostic Thread

[TX87R10]

My truck has been slow to start lately, as in taking an extra second or two after turning over the ignition until I start hearing it actually try to start. It starts up and runs great once the starter kicked in.

This afternoon I went to crank it and got nothing, no clicks from the starter or anything. I've been reading up on the forums here and this is what I did -

0. Verified good battery connection, wipers and lights working - Works good
1. Checked the NSS on the steering column - verified power in and out in park, tested in neutral as well no difference
2. Checked power to the solenoid - looks good

I took the starter and solenoid off and had them tested - both tested good at AutoZone. Since the starter is pretty old I went ahead and decided to get a new one, but I currently have both in my hand.

3. Got back home and I kept reading to test the fusible link. There is a purple wire going to the small stud in the solenoid so I pierced the wire as far back as I could and then checked for continuity at the tip - Tested good

I'm not sure what else to test. Any ideas before I put the starter back on?

 

[Ricko1966]

Check the cables themselves and 3 point ground. How did you check for power to the solenoid? Next time jump the solenoid before you remove the starter. If it starts when you jump it with a remote start switch,a quarter,a screwdriver everyone's got their method. Anyway if it starts then we can rule out battery,cables,battery connections,and positive connection then we know we are not getting signal to the solenoid.It just takes a bunch out of the equation.

 

[TX87R10]

Check the cables themselves and 3 point ground. How did you check for power to the solenoid?

I connected a long gator clip to a ground location in the engine bay and then probed where the wires come in. Verified incoming power when the ignition was engaged.

By check the cables and 3 pt guard there is no way to test each one with the starter off is it? I'm assuming it would be to re-install the starter, connect the ignition wire, and then test each cable individually while disconnected?

 

[Ricko1966]

So with the ignition switch in the crank position you have power to the small wire on the solenoid when you let go of the key the power goes away? From the way you wrote that I'm not sure checked for signal to the solenoid. I was editing when you quoted me,go back and reread.

 

[TX87R10]

So with the ignition switch in the crank position you have power to the small wire on the solenoid when you let go of the key the power goes away? From the way you wrote that I'm not sure checked for signal to the solenoid. I was editing when you quoted me,go back and reread.

Ok thanks, yeah just took the old starter to another "parts store" to verify it was operating properly as I didn't have a lot of confidence that replacing it was the answer (the one the first parts store suggested). I'll probably take the other back in the morning and put this one back on now and check the right post.


> Next time jump the solenoid before you remove the starter. If it starts when you jump it with a remote start switch,a quarter,a screwdriver everyone's got their method. Anyway if it starts then we can rule out battery,cables,battery connections,and positive connection then we know we are not getting signal to the solenoid.It just takes a bunch out of the equation.

Good call, let me try that. If I understand I was testing the power in from the battery directly and I need to be testing for 12v coming in from the ignition switch to the small post instead of checking inside the jacket of the power wire from battery. Let me get the starter reinstalled and hooked back up and re-check.

 

[TX87R10]

Well I got the old one back on and sure enough I don't think there is any thing coming out of the ignition switch because it has no change from run to crank :/ should ha e checked it right the first time

 

[Ricko1966]

Short big starter lug to solenoid crank terminal,I'll bet your starter turns over. If you are In a jamb you can run a piece of 2 conductor from inside the cab to the starter. On the starter end ,1 lead of the 2 conductor goes to starter positive lead,other lead goes to solenoid crank terminal, tape the existing solenoid crank lead somewhere safe with electrical tape. In the truck the 2 leads can go to a momentary contact switch or a toggle switch. Turn your key to run,push your push button or flip your toggle, when the truck starts let off the button or flip the toggle the other direction. Temporary to get you by until can diagnose and fix it correct. A toggle is not ideal but most people have one in a junk drawer somewhere and an old piece of lamp cord. This stuff doesn't need to be heavy duty the solenoid doesn't draw much.

 

[TX87R10]

Short big starter lug to solenoid crank terminal,I'll bet your starter turns over. If you are In a jamb you can run a piece of 2 conductor from inside the cab to the starter. On the starter end ,1 lead of the 2 conductor goes to starter positive lead,other lead goes to solenoid crank terminal, tape the existing solenoid crank lead somewhere safe with electrical tape. In the truck the 2 leads can go to a momentary contact switch or a toggle switch. Turn your key to run,push your push button or flip your toggle, when the truck starts let off the button or flip the toggle the other direction. Temporary to get you by until can diagnose and fix it correct. A toggle is not ideal but most people have one in a junk drawer somewhere and an old piece of lamp cord. This stuff doesn't need to be heavy duty the solenoid doesn't draw much.

Sounds good yeah when we bought our house the previous owner had an electrical supply company running out of the garage so I have plenty of both. I guess just running it through the firewall with the other wires is probably easiest.

I want to find and fix the issue though as soon as possible so I'm assuming with the recent difficultly in turning the key over it could be the ignition switch itself. I was actually going to take off work this afternoon to figure this out ASAP so unless I come up with another idea looks like I'll be needing to lower the steering column and check the ignition switch next?

Wish me luck lol this is my daily driver and I already broke a clip on the NSS testing it, have a new one coming in today.

 

[Ricko1966]

That's why I was telling you the temporary solution,so don't lose income,or have to bum rides,until you have time off to fix it right.

 

[TX87R10]

That's why I was telling you the temporary solution,so don't lose income,or have to bum rides,until you have time off to fix it right.

For sure I appreciate it. The toggle switches I have are a bit overkill but I'm running some wire here in a bit and grabbing a cheap toggle from Ace to get her going again.

 

[TX87R10]

Short big starter lug to solenoid crank terminal,I'll bet your starter turns over. If you are In a jamb you can run a piece of 2 conductor from inside the cab to the starter. On the starter end ,1 lead of the 2 conductor goes to starter positive lead,other lead goes to solenoid crank terminal, tape the existing solenoid crank lead somewhere safe with electrical tape. In the truck the 2 leads can go to a momentary contact switch or a toggle switch. Turn your key to run,push your push button or flip your toggle, when the truck starts let off the button or flip the toggle the other direction. Temporary to get you by until can diagnose and fix it correct. A toggle is not ideal but most people have one in a junk drawer somewhere and an old piece of lamp cord. This stuff doesn't need to be heavy duty the solenoid doesn't draw much.

Hey @Ricko1966 thanks for your help so far - one more hopefully quick question -

I went the route of a momentary contact switch but it was a small one I had laying around. The starter tried to crank for like half a second and then stopped, testing I was getting 12v in to the momentary switch but after pressing it it was only like 8v out so I assumed it was too small

Went to autozone and grabbed an automotive starter switch and wired that up but no change, still once I press the button it goes from 12v in to both 8v in and out.
I wired 16g wire from the solenoid post to one side of the button and 16g wire from the other side of the button to the power block and everything is snug.

Did I break something else here? I left the purple wire to the post detached with electric tape wrapped around it.

 

[Ricko1966]

Run both leads to the starter one on the big post 1 on the little post. Post back I'm thinking you probably need your battery charged or a new battery. Pulling down to 8 volts to me means,battery,bad connection or excessive starter draw

 

[TX87R10]

Well I am dumb I ran extra long wire so I didn't have to run it twice and I may have just ran both lines too long or something

I shortened them and got it to work fine from inside the cab using the button. Next is to figure out the real issue :crying:

 

[Ricko1966]

Real issue won't be a problem . Pist back the night before your going to work on it I'll walk you through it that night and the next day. Nbd.

 

[TX87R10]

@Ricko1966 welp the temp button for the starter is working great but something just broke presumably in the lock cylinder because the key is loose in the lock when turning back and forth and no power to anything besides the starter. I mean dome lights come on but the dash doesn't light up and now I can't get it out of gear with key in the on position.

Guess I'm towing this bad boy home and going to have to start taking apart the ignition. This just got even more fun!