what drop kit or combination of lowering parts are y'all using?

[74 Shortbed]

That's the size tire I have on mine, this is the best pic I have and I can't take any more since it's down to bare frame at this time, lol..

 

[RangRayy]

Looks good! That's what I am after except I have a long bed. I'll be to bare frame in a few weeks. Which is why I'm getting my thoughts in order on lowering parts now so I can install them as i put it all back together.

 

[74 Shortbed]

Thanks, I think instead of just a drop coil I'm gonna go with a 2.5 drop spindle and a 1" coil I think that will work better with the big block, and just change the leafs in the back.

 

[RangRayy]

I was going to ask and you answered. If you were going to change anything when you rebuild it. That's where I plan to start... Spindles and maybe a coil. There's a thread in here where someone got a 1" coil and it was still too high. Instead of the 2.5 spindles might go after DJMs 3" drop spindles

 

[74 Shortbed]

Well, the 3" coils are less than 3yrs old and it already had a slight sag on one side and that's with a small block, according to WC they use the same spring for big and small block, just don't sound right to me??. A 2.5 spindle and 1" coil is a 1/2" lower and the spring should settle some I figure it should be real close I would think??. Guess a 3" spindle would be good but I want to stick with a 15" rim, got a set of Rallys I want to use. BTW, I'm also going with tubular control arms too, I want to be able to get more Caster and not have a big ole stack of shims to set the Camber.

 

[RangRayy]

One would think with a beefier motor the suspension would be beefed up too. I've looked over the 3" spindles and a lot of people state they're actually closer to 2.5 than 3. I did not think to switch over to tubular. Figured those worked better with air bag systems.

 

[74 Shortbed]

You can get them for bags or springs, haven't found a lower yet that I care too much for though except for CPP, they look to be a good one, don't care for the uppers though with the ball joint underneath the arm and all the weight on the three bolts??, may go DJM on the uppers don't know yet..

 

[bluex]

No notch on mine but is a heavy half to. I have about 2 or 3 inches between the frame an axle to. Up front I have about an inch before the bump stop hits the crossmember. Bags are up next for mine.

 

[bluex]

Mine never bottoms out in the rear empty. I had about 900 lbs of scrap on it one time an it had about 1/2" between axle an frame. It bottomed or a few times on the way to the metal place but it wasn't too bad.

 

[RangRayy]

No notch on mine but is a heavy half to. I have about 2 or 3 inches between the frame an axle to. Up front I have about an inch before the bump stop hits the crossmember. Bags are up next for mine.

Mines not a heavy half at least I do not believe it is. I came stock with the HD or JD5 brakes. Gpa I believe added the 3/4t leafs in the rear after he got their 5th wheel camper. So it's clear a notch is not needed for a flip kit. Looks like I'll go with 2.5 spindles and 2" coils up front with nitro drop shocks and rear flip kit with nitro shocks and slimmer bump stops.

 

[bluex]

Ya you'll definitely have to cut the stock rear bump stop off. I replaced it with a small urethane one.

 

[74 Shortbed]

nitro drop shocks and rear flip kit with nitro shocks and slimmer bump stops.

Mine had the nitro drop shocks in the back and they're way too much on an angle, I'm gonna use shock extenders and use stock length shocks, way more efficient that way..

 

[twcoley]

I'm in the process of installing a CCP lowering kit and I have been very satisfied with the quality so far. And wasn't priced bad at all dropped spindles and springs flip kit with cnotch kit and 4 shocks was right at 600.00 and there was some frieght

 

[SkinnyG]

I wouldn't notch it.

I notched half the frame thickness out of mine, but I have the heavy 8-leaf pack and probably didn't need to.

Also, When my truck is heavily loaded, the bed floor sits on top of the differential housing, and the axle tubes STILL aren't where the frame rail used to be. I've had 1700lbs of sand in the bed. By accident.

I recommend:

Flip the axle, don't notch the frame, ~maybe~ add some ultra-low-profile bumpstops if contact occurs.

I will be adding some tall bumpstops inside my notches, because I believe the box resting (and on bumps hammering) the differential housing is hard on the axle-tube-to-diff-housing connection. It may even bend the tubes? At any rate, I don't think this was worth it.

 

[SkinnyG]

Another thing to consider, is a 3" spindle will have the control arm hanging below 15" rims up front. This is neither safe, nor legal. A 2.5" spindle would be better, though I suspect still hang too low.

When my 15" BFG's are done, I'm going 17".