what do I have here?

[Dutch Rutter]

Ok, so lifted suspensions is new to me so I've seen people post about cross over steering and different pitman arms for different lifts. I'm not sure what the previous owner has done to this truck so any help would be great.

Heres some photos.

The steering is a little loose the shocks are crap and I have not idea what size of lift. pitman arm or anything. hell I don't even know if these parts are bent.

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[DanMcG]

Looks like 2" blocks in the rear and the front spring seem flat where my stock front springs have a negative arc, so I'll guess a 2" lift

 

[Dutch Rutter]

Great! that sounds right since it was sitting on 33"s without looking overly tall for the tire size. Since I'm not over a 4" lift I don't need to look at other pitman arms unless I go taller correct?

Also I have no idea if a cross over steering set up is doable with this lift, or what the benefits would be of doing such a thing, or what is entailed in doing that.

My steering now is somewhat loose and sloppy, and I'd like to get this fixed. I have looked at all of the components while the wife turned the wheel and I didn't notice any worn parts but was hearing a metallic tick in the steering box when the wheels started turning. so I'm thinking a bit of tightening to that and I should be ok, but I'm not entirely sure.

 

[crazy4offroad]

Pitman arm looks stock, draglink looks stock, tierod looks normal. Couldn't see the steering arm on the driver's steering knuckle to tell what it is. I would check tierod ends, draglink ends, ball joints and wheel bearings. Definitely not a crossover steering setup, everything looks stock. Those lower ball joints look like they've been in there a while. One of the best things to do to these trucks is all new ball joints and wheel bearings. If it needs tierod or draglink ends it will be easy to tell if you can have a friend slightly turn the wheel left/right while you watch their attachment points. It could also be it just needs aligned.

 

[crazy4offroad]

Also while your friend is turning the wheel look at the steering box. If it seems to move independent from the frame a little, it is possible the frame is cracked behind the steering box, very common on these trucks. Crossover steering requires a 2WD steering box, an expensive crossover draglink and a special passenger side knuckle. You don't really need crossover steering until you're at 6" lift or more, to eliminate bump-steer.

 

[Dutch Rutter]

Thanks C4 that helps alot, I'm planning on taking it to my favorite alignment shop here next month they do great work. When the wife was turning the steering wheel I was holding the different parts trying to feel for play and to give it some resistance, everything felt solid.

I do agree this poor truck has probably been sitting in that guys garage for a long while without much attention being paid to it. I wouldn't be surprised if the ball joints are original and have never been replaced.

When I take the front clip off for the motor swap Ill hopefully have enough will power to paint some of those parts so they don't look all trashy and rusty.

 

[Dutch Rutter]

Another quick question, since my 86 C20 was a diesel (before I put in the 350 that will be going into this k20) It has the hydro boost brake system. When I do that motor swap should I also look into swapping that hydro booster in place of the k20's vacuum booster?

 

[Georgeb]

I would keep the hydro boost as long as it works well. I loved it on my 3500!

 

[Dutch Rutter]

I would keep the hydro boost as long as it works well. I loved it on my 3500!

I don't remember ever having a problem with the hydro system on the C20 even after I converted it to a gas engine. so Id be happy to move it over to the K20 if its not too hard of a job.

Would I need to bring over the steering box and power steering from the hydro boost 2wd truck as well? (i think it ties in there somehow) or keep the box that is currently in the 4wd?

EDIT: after a little research I found this link

http://bangshift.com/general-news/t...boost-on-your-classic-gm-muscle-car-or-truck/

which shows what needs to be done to convert from vacume boost brakes to a hydroboost set up. seem easy enough you just need to have a hydroboost PS pump tank. Ill end up swapping mine over since I have all of the components needed and it if the truck can move faster I'd like it to be able to stop faster.

Thanks for the help, You guys rock!