Trans Cooler lines

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81squared

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Hello , I would like to remove my old dented and patched trans lines, I would like to do 6AN braided, i see kits with 50 inch pre made lines.

I tried to measure but its difficult , has anyone used these or know if 50 inch will be long enough, they sell 70 inch but I dont want to much excess

thanks
 

PrairieDrifter

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I used the advanced adapters lines and they were a couple feet too long. I just routed them different.
 

Dave M

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Hello , I would like to remove my old dented and patched trans lines, I would like to do 6AN braided, i see kits with 50 inch pre made lines.

I tried to measure but its difficult , has anyone used these or know if 50 inch will be long enough, they sell 70 inch but I dont want to much excess

thanks

Don't know if you are a younger/older GMSB member, but I can appreciate the fact that you want to improve your truck, have it reliable as well as looking good, but how much would all this braided line and fittings cost? I find all that stuff can be expensive. Me personally, I like the old tube lines. If your handy enough, consider this. How much to buy a double flare kit, tube cutters and benders, and roll of tube for to make new lines up yourself? I did this years ago and the good part is I still have all my tubing tools. I can go out and replace fuel, transmission and brake lines whenever i need to. I've got them forever, only spent the money once. (Just don't lend them) I understand sometimes hosing is also more practical.
Anyway, totally your choice and good luck with your project, Cheers !
 

Bruce Wingate

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i half agree with @Dave M, but instead of learning how to bend an flare hard lines - make your own AN lines. Before you go forward look at what it would take to remove the old lines and then route the new lines, how long you think it would take you to make the new lines (then double it) The nice thing about making your own lines is that you can adjust the routing, if you make your own AN lines, you can choose the correct angles for the ends to give a nice tight routing.
 

WFO

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Don't know if you are a younger/older GMSB member, but I can appreciate the fact that you want to improve your truck, have it reliable as well as looking good, but how much would all this braided line and fittings cost? I find all that stuff can be expensive. Me personally, I like the old tube lines. If your handy enough, consider this. How much to buy a double flare kit, tube cutters and benders, and roll of tube for to make new lines up yourself? I did this years ago and the good part is I still have all my tubing tools. I can go out and replace fuel, transmission and brake lines whenever i need to. I've got them forever, only spent the money once. (Just don't lend them) I understand sometimes hosing is also more practical.
Anyway, totally your choice and good luck with your project, Cheers !
That's how I see it too. Plus, hard lines are ridged and straight, and don't need very many clips to hold them in place.
 

Raider L

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@81squared,

I have braided, solid, and rubber hoses on my truck. It's what will hold up best in what application, what will work best near heat,etc.. I use a braided hose coming off my fuel pump because if I have to move that steel line what bending will do to it after awhile. Making steel lines takes practice especially when double flare ends are called for. It's all about ease and speed of removing it and putting it back on. Since I was an aircraft mechanic for years we were always making up braided lines. Aircraft have all three types as well, rubber hoses, steel lines except it's not regular steel, they are all stainless steel, and braided hoses. It depends on whether you use a braided hose rather than a steel line where high pressure is present, a braided hose can take high pressure and flex due to vibrations of aircraft engines can cause a steel line to crack, and can take more heat than a rubber hose. Transmission lines is a good place to use a braided hose due to high pressure and heat. There is also high pressure rubber hoses that has high tensile material inside in layers and can take both pressure and heat, if you prefer but it's expensive. Making your own braided hoses is easy. All you need is a high speed cutting wheel that can cut through the braid fast and clean, a vice, and a open end wrench.
 

Raider L

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Maybe this will help see what a braided line would look like. I don't have a pic of where the trans lines go into the trans. They are special "straight" AN6 male fittings just for the trans out and in ports down there. Here's what those lines coming out to the cooler would look like.

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Those are 90 degree elbow fittings attached to the end of the hoses from the trans.

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This is just a stand off I made to get the braid up off the inner wheel well sheet metal, with Adel clamps on the hose doubled up.
 

Octane

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Maybe this will help see what a braided line would look like. I don't have a pic of where the trans lines go into the trans. They are special "straight" AN6 male fittings just for the trans out and in ports down there. Here's what those lines coming out to the cooler would look like.

You must be registered for see images attach
Those are 90 degree elbow fittings attached to the end of the hoses from the trans.

You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach
This is just a stand off I made to get the braid up off the inner wheel well sheet metal, with Adel clamps on the hose doubled up.
Nice job.Ive had old cars where the trans line had been cut three inches from the radiator and reattached with fuel hose and double clamped.It worked but it was a hack job.
 

Raider L

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@Octane,

Yeah, I know. I've seen some nasty looking rigging to. I was an aircraft mechanic by trade for years. I was taught by retired Airforce Chief Master Sargents who ran whole departments in the Airforce so I don't have any bad habits and didn't know how to do some of the things they taught me from some other job I had before the planes. I had years in the Army so I already had a military mind so their style training came second nature. And came from heavy oil field fabrication shops doing all kinds of welding. I had to go to college for a year before I could apply for the job. But since I had years of all kinds of welding experience and knew how to T.I.G. weld steels and Alum. they hired me.

I had to begin a FAA "apprenticeship" sorta, no unions but to be allowed to work on the planes I had to have begun a training program that led to taking the A & P (airframe and power plant) exam for aircraft mechanics with a year and a half for each thing, the A and the P. I loved working on planes so when I decided to rebuild my truck I already knew what I was going to do, and had already begun to collect certain kinds of things I planned on using on the truck if that time ever came.

Of course my poor old truck has been on the street for over 25 years and is pretty well beaten up. but you should have seen it when it was finished being rebuilt, it looked like a new airplane all shiny and clean. Ohh, I'll tell you, I wanted to go much further with the aircraft theme but the two guys who were expert, talked me out of it and said I wouldn't need top go that far...after all it's not an airplane, it's a truck. Well, that's okay I can dream. I wanted to go roller everything in the engine. They laughed and asked me, "What are you planning on doing, running at 12,000 rpm?" ha, ha. I did find out you can put roller bearings in place of flat bearings for the cam. So I was thinking, "Well heck, why not do the crank to?" But you can't roller the crank because the rods are in the way of anything you would put in place of flat bearings in the journals. See, you can do it for the cam because it's up there all by itself and you machine the cam journals for the roller bearings.
 

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