Tow a 5th wheel camper trailer with bed mount hitch ?

[mtnmankev]

I'm thinking about buying a 5th wheel camper, about 29 ft long and 6700 lbs.
My 83 C20 already has holes in the bed from a previous owner's hitch, but I have no idea how much weight I should pull without doing the holes in the frame with grade 8 or better bolts routine and deal with the work involved.
I know the frame mount method is ideal, but what do you kids think is a good safe limit to use the hitch bolted only to the bed?
I am already thinking super heavy duty booster shocks for the rear to help compensate for the very tired leaf springs.

 

[Frankenchevy]

I’ve never seen a goose neck hitch that wasn’t bolted to the frame. There are goose neck setups for the square though…

 

[mtnmankev]

The seller is including a 5th wheel hitch that uses the receiver hitch as a mount.
I know I am not going to trust that idea knowing the laws of physics involved and the weird **** that always happens around here.

 

[Frankenchevy]

https://www.bwtrailerhitches.com/kits/gnrk1400

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[mtnmankev]

To me, that appears to bolt to the top of the bed rails.

Thanks for posting that, something to consider.

Damn, I miss having access to welding and machine shop and being able to do it.

 

[mtnmankev]

Another concern I have is tongue weight.

This camper looks like they put the wheels as far back as they could, which translates to tongue weight increase and larger diameter turning radius.

 

[AuroraGirl]

if you have a camper with the axles far back, and you want to pull it, then to make best use of physics you would want to make sure you can absolutely maintain a proper ride height to keep the weight from trying to jump the truck in the front, pin down onto the truck, etc.

Coming to mind, the solution to me would be to get your hitch mounted, yes, then on flat level ground hook your trailer as you would intend to tow it(weight wise, anything in the trailer loaded to the rear axles or in the back, whatever it may be) and then see how it you sit. if your truck is being pressed downward as to make it slope down to the truck, You then have a few options
1) strengthen your trucks holding capacity with springs, bumpers, airbags, helpers , etc to make it level, maybe even different tires or lift to make it level
2) move your trailers axles to properly distribute its own weight or adjust tire size, if possible, while maintaining safe capacitys of course
3) different trailer or truck

as long as you arent seriously pinning the truck with the weight of the trailer(severe load distribution bias i would think) I wouldnt worry about a k20 or c20 whatevery ou said being able to handle the weight for pulling it/handling it, the concerns i would have would be the tires, are they the right size, inflation, and load range for your load
and do you have good Trailer brakes in addition to good TRuck brakes. If this load does push the enevelope, one may consider rear disc as to have better heat dissipation to reduce the possibility of fade. In addition, making sure the transmission is up to snuff(idk what trans) so you can appropriately use the trans to help stop and take work off the brakes. My 96 f150 is really nice because the OD switch also engages the coast clutch, but on an older truck that would mean shifting from D to 2, to 1 I believe(if auto) or just using your shifter to use lower gears downshifting

 

[PrairieDrifter]

Our local farm store sells those plates. It's literally just a huge piece of plate steel, with a ball welded in the center.

The one ton box I bought had one of those mounted at one time. They still sell em and people use em, so they must work. I'd rather have the frame mount B&W hitch.

 

[77 K20]

When my dad bought his 5th wheel in 1989 they just used a 5th wheel hitch that only bolted to his bed. Not the frame. His 5th wheel rails run front to back in the bed and his hitch slides into it. My 5th wheel hitch if frame mounted and the rails run side to side.

Anyway- the RV place said that his hitch was only good to around 4,500 lbs.

That being said I never liked that idea... but he still tows his 5th wheel and has towed mine (18' for his 23' for mine) for the last 30 years with no problems. But hasn't had any accidents either. Wouldn't want to hit anything.

 

[mtnmankev]

I have never noticed any holes in the frame below the holes in the bed, but maybe today I shall take a closer look.

I definitely would prefer frame mount, especially with a rig at 7,000 lbs or more.

 

[wanderinthru]

Have put many goose neck/ 5th wheel plates in the bed, bolted thru the flange of the frame, bolts spaced between bed and frame to get them damn tight. Hauled mucho weight, lots more than 7000 pounds, 2 and 3 times that with never an issue. BUT, these old trucks were a lot newer then and had not seen the stresses they have now.

Personally I like something welded or bolted to the web.

 

[Grit dog]

Unless this is just to transport the trailer once to some destination, Towing a trailer that size with your truck will not be a great experience all around I’m sure.

But whatever you do, don’t do either of the janky hitch options you mentioned.

 

[mtnmankev]

Thanks to everybody for your input and suggestions.

The trailer I am looking at is an older model (1996) but is in pristine condition.

Maybe I should look for a regular tow behind instead.

 

[Bextreme04]

You will be safer with a 5th wheel of that weight than you would be with a trailer that size. I have a Reese 18K 5th wheel hitch and rails that I got for about $40 from a guy selling them locally. I then bought a universal truck 10 bolt mounting kit and bolted them through the frame in multiple places. Mine is an 8600GVW K20, so I have the heavy 3800lb springs. It has absolutely no problem with 7,000lb 5th wheel running about 1,000-1500 hitch weight.

This is the same rail and bolt kit I used. You can get just the brackets and bolt kit for about $40 on etrailer.. the hitch and rails are the pricey bits.

https://www.amazon.com/Reese-Towpower-30035-Fifth-Wheel/dp/B0008G1NB6

 

[Frankenchevy]

When my dad bought his 5th wheel in 1989 they just used a 5th wheel hitch that only bolted to his bed. Not the frame. His 5th wheel rails run front to back in the bed and his hitch slides into it. My 5th wheel hitch if frame mounted and the rails run side to side.

Anyway- the RV place said that his hitch was only good to around 4,500 lbs.

That being said I never liked that idea... but he still tows his 5th wheel and has towed mine (18' for his 23' for mine) for the last 30 years with no problems. But hasn't had any accidents either. Wouldn't want to hit anything.

You’re absolutely right about the bed mounted 5th wheel hitch. I’m not sure why my mind instantly went to goose neck when I read @mtnmankev ’s post.

I agree with the comment about a 5th wheel being better to tow than an equal sized bumper pull.