Swapping the 350 for a Crate

[Fredo90]

I have and '85 Chevy C20 with a 350 5.7. I'm going to be swapping the engine and I've been looking at an ATK 350 crate on Jegs. I was considering just getting the long block and moving most of my sub components over, or just getting the whole thing. My question is does anyone have any experience with ATK? Their reliability? I've looked at blueprint and summit racing as well but availability and affordability is a major factor right now cause idk how long I got before my current engine just gives up. I am not in a position nor do I have time to rebuild. Appreciate anyone's experiences and advice in advance.

 

[shiftpro]

Well for starters what is the warrantee?

If you just go with a shortblock you will need to get your heads rebuilt. Just in case you missed that.

Guess where all your horsepower comes from?

 

[ali_c20]

How do you use your truck? Daily, weekend cruiser or work horse? Imo that's the most important factor for choosing the engine. I have a goodwrench crate in my k5, works as it's supposed to. Reliable, cheap and enough power for my needs. I would go with the long block and swap the accessory from the original motor and a new water pump, fuel pump and balancer. If all the accessory on your engine is shot the best/easiest option is to get a turn key engine. That's my 0.02$

 

[yevgenievich]

I heard negatives about ATK, but they sell a lot of engines. Bought their rebuild for a different vehicle about two years back without any trouble.

 

[75gmck25]

Also take a close look at specs of the low end crate engines. You definitely want to get 64cc Vortec or better heads that give you compression in the low to mid nines (not original spec smogger 72cc heads), and it’s really smart to move to a block with a one piece rear main seal and roller cam.

Look for cam specs that will work well with a heavy truck and your trans/rear- end combo, since some of the more aggressive grinds might be better matched to a 4 speed and low rear end gears.

Some engines will require a Vortec intake, may not have provision for a mechanical fuel pump, and the accessories provided might be designed to work with a reverse rotation water pump and serpentine belts. All this can add to the replacement cost.

 

[fast 99]

A shop locally has bought a couple ATK motors recently, they were fine. I have probably installed a hundred or more motors from several different manufacturers over the years. It's really just luck if good or not. The biggest issue is oil or water leaks. Although I have seen a few real odd problems that required a replacement. If you're not purchasing a long block the warranty will likely be reduced. Warranties for owner installed engines are usually limited as well. Read the fine print.

 

[Fredo90]

Well for starters what is the warrantee?

If you just go with a shortblock you will need to get your heads rebuilt. Just in case you missed that.

Guess where all your horsepower comes from?

I'm going with a long block or a completely built one. The warranty is 24 months and unlimited miles

 

[Fredo90]

How do you use your truck? Daily, weekend cruiser or work horse? Imo that's the most important factor for choosing the engine. I have a goodwrench crate in my k5, works as it's supposed to. Reliable, cheap and enough power for my needs. I would go with the long block and swap the accessory from the original motor and a new water pump, fuel pump and balancer. If all the accessory on your engine is shot the best/easiest option is to get a turn key engine. That's my 0.02$

It's my daily but the commute isn't too bad only about 24 miles round trip a day. It goes on the freeway but I never take it above 70. Most of my stuff is fairly new (water pump, fuel pump, alternator, etc. all less than 2000 miles on them) what do you mean as far as accessories tho? My main problem I'm finding with the turn key is most aren't set up for egr. I'm in California so I kinda need it

 

[Fredo90]

Also take a close look at specs of the low end crate engines. You definitely want to get 64cc Vortec or better heads that give you compression in the low to mid nines (not original spec smogger 72cc heads), and it’s really smart to move to a block with a one piece rear main seal and roller cam.

Look for cam specs that will work well with a heavy truck and your trans/rear- end combo, since some of the more aggressive grinds might be better matched to a 4 speed and low rear end gears.

Some engines will require a Vortec intake, may not have provision for a mechanical fuel pump, and the accessories provided might be designed to work with a reverse rotation water pump and serpentine belts. All this can add to the replacement cost.

Everything I looked at had the cast iron heads I believe. I did find a few that had the roller cam but what is the significance of the one piece rear main seal? I'm a bit of a novice in terms of what will work well with what. And I did make sure they take the mechanical fuel pump and I don't know if it will accept my stock intake.

 

[SirRobyn0]

I have and '85 Chevy C20 with a 350 5.7. I'm going to be swapping the engine and I've been looking at an ATK 350 crate on Jegs. I was considering just getting the long block and moving most of my sub components over, or just getting the whole thing. My question is does anyone have any experience with ATK? Their reliability? I've looked at blueprint and summit racing as well but availability and affordability is a major factor right now cause idk how long I got before my current engine just gives up. I am not in a position nor do I have time to rebuild. Appreciate anyone's experiences and advice in advance.

We do a fair bit of work on older trucks at the shop. I would describe the condition of most of them from being in the nice condition daily driver to work truck type. Very few that I'd call restored. Almost always at least one square in the shop. We use to us ATK a bunch, because they'd ship quick, their wholesale prices were great, and we had good luck with them up until about 10 or so years ago when they were bought by the Keystone / LKQ conglomerate. A couple of bombs later the worst of which being a 350 that we put 3 of their engines in. No I'm sorry never again for us. We moved to using Oregon engines, and S&J out of Spokane, Wa. Oregon engines is closed when the business owner retired. It's a give and take using a smaller engine remanufacturing company, ATK, has huge warehouses and can almost always ship the engine you order right away. The smaller guys build them as they are ordered. So for example my last S&J engine took 6 weeks to get. But if I'd of realized the customer service we'd get, and the better quality engines we'd get for similar cost, we would have stopped using ATK sooner.

 

[ali_c20]

It's my daily but the commute isn't too bad only about 24 miles round trip a day. It goes on the freeway but I never take it above 70. Most of my stuff is fairly new (water pump, fuel pump, alternator, etc. all less than 2000 miles on them) what do you mean as far as accessories tho? My main problem I'm finding with the turn key is most aren't set up for egr. I'm in California so I kinda need it

I meant water pump, fuel pump, alternator, power steering pump, etc. It's good that your stuff is nearly new, you can go for a long block and save money.
1 piece and 2 piece is the type of rear main seal. 1 piece rear main seal was introduced around 1986

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_small-block_engine_(first_and_second_generation)

Stick with the type of block you have (1piece main seal/2piece main seal) otherwise you have to buy a new flywheel too.

Choosing a new engine is not easy and there are thousands of opinions what to buy.
Maybe you should make a chart and put in all limiting factors like budget, emissions, reuse of parts, etc. This could help you to make a good decision and not get side tracked.

 

[75gmck25]

A little more explanation about my suggestions.
- two piece rear main seal was used on earlier engines, but GM later started using an improved one piece seal that is less prone to leaks. Not a big improvement overall, but significant. It does use a different flywheel, but when you pull your old engine you may find your old flywheel is already cracked anyway.

- original 70’s heads had 72 or 75 cc combustion chambers (big) that dropped compression to as low as 8.0. They are also an old head design and even with careful reworking they are 30-40 hp behind a stock iron Vortec head with 64cc chambers. Many modern budget heads are just a close copy of the Vortec design, either in iron or aluminum. Even the cheap ones usually flow much better than old 70’s heads.
I used Blueprint heads when I upgraded my crate, and they are drilled for both Vortec and old-style intake bolts. They also allow either perimeter or center bolt valve covers.

- if you read one of the many long discussions of which oil has enough zinc to protect an old flat tappet cam, it’s clear how a roller cam simplifies everything for the long term. If you buy a block that is drilled for the roller cam spider and is designed for a roller, the cam itself won’t be that much more expensive.

 

[Fredo90]

I meant water pump, fuel pump, alternator, power steering pump, etc. It's good that your stuff is nearly new, you can go for a long block and save money.
1 piece and 2 piece is the type of rear main seal. 1 piece rear main seal was introduced around 1986

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_small-block_engine_(first_and_second_generation)

Stick with the type of block you have (1piece main seal/2piece main seal) otherwise you have to buy a new flywheel too.

Choosing a new engine is not easy and there are thousands of opinions what to buy.
Maybe you should make a chart and put in all limiting factors like budget, emissions, reuse of parts, etc. This could help you to make a good decision and not get side tracked.

For sure I appreciate the info and advice thank you!

 

[Fredo90]

A little more explanation about my suggestions.
- two piece rear main seal was used on earlier engines, but GM later started using an improved one piece seal that is less prone to leaks. Not a big improvement overall, but significant. It does use a different flywheel, but when you pull your old engine you may find your old flywheel is already cracked anyway.

- original 70’s heads had 72 or 75 cc combustion chambers (big) that dropped compression to as low as 8.0. They are also an old head design and even with careful reworking they are 30-40 hp behind a stock iron Vortec head with 64cc chambers. Many modern budget heads are just a close copy of the Vortec design, either in iron or aluminum. Even the cheap ones usually flow much better than old 70’s heads.
I used Blueprint heads when I upgraded my crate, and they are drilled for both Vortec and old-style intake bolts. They also allow either perimeter or center bolt valve covers.

- if you read one of the many long discussions of which oil has enough zinc to protect an old flat tappet cam, it’s clear how a roller cam simplifies everything for the long term. If you buy a block that is drilled for the roller cam spider and is designed for a roller, the cam itself won’t be that much more expensive.

Okay I got you thank you for giving me more information about it I appreciate it. I will double check and see if any of the ones I was looking at had vortec heads but I think a lot of them said pre 1986. Is the roller cam a significant improvement over the flat tappet?

 

[fast 99]

85 2-piece rear main, 86 1 piece. There could be other differences as well. That was a changeover year. Remember some light duties went to TBI sooner, I think almost all were in 86.

Really, the least expensive way to go is a replacement like the one you have. I did the exact swap on an 85 K20. A GM new was available then and the motor in it wasn't a good core. That decision was easy.
Yes, the early motors don't have as much power, but they will run fine. Roller motors do have advantages. No need to use high zinc oils, less cam and lifter wear and more power. Not sure if the power increase would be that noticeable. Negative, more expensive.