Steering stabilizer. How the hell do I get the old one off?

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MisterB

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I bought a new rancho one. I'm trying to get the stock one off. I got the bolt off this side, and the bolt off the passenger side. The stabilizer shock lifts up easily away from the passenger side, but the driver side still is stuck on after removing the nut. How do I get the rest off? I've tried pounding that threaded end through, but it won't budge
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MisterB

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Dutch Rutter

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I second the BFH. I recently did mine. Added some heat and beat the hell out of it with a 4lb short handle sledge. Took a while and was suprised when it finally knocked out.

It might help if you can put a piece of wood behind the bar to keep it from flexing and absorbing the hit.
 

Vbb199

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Thanks! That link doesn't work though. Is it a tie rod separator set?

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It's from HF

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Vbb199

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I second the BFH. I recently did mine. Added some heat and beat the hell out of it with a 4lb short handle sledge. Took a while and was suprised when it finally knocked out.

It might help if you can put a piece of wood behind the bar to keep it from flexing and absorbing the hit.
Very similar to a 10 bolt steering arm.....
BFH

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Vbb199

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Thanks! That link doesn't work though. Is it a tie rod separator set?

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Works pretty good for HF tooling... I've abused it many times
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MisterB

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Works pretty good for HF tooling... I've abused it many times
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I went and bought every tool recommended, but the only thing that did the trick was this little beast. When it popped, it was so loud, I thought the tool had broken, but it was just the stabilizer finally breaking loose

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Vbb199

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I went and bought every tool recommended, but the only thing that did the trick was this little beast. When it popped, it was so loud, I thought the tool had broken, but it was just the stabilizer finally breaking loose

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For 15$ you'd think it would just snap, it's stout

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MrMarty51

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A pry bar between the pivot of the rod and the drag link, pry for all its worth then with a larger size hammer, three or four pounder, beat the piss out of the drag link where the stud goes through. Just be careful that when it pops free You dont hit Your arm or hand on some poor unsuspecting portion of the truck.
This method has always worked for anything with a taper component that I have had to disassemble. ie rods, ball joints, steering knuckles, You name it.
 

idahovette

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A pry bar between the pivot of the rod and the drag link, pry for all its worth then with a larger size hammer, three or four pounder, beat the piss out of the drag link where the stud goes through. Just be careful that when it pops free You dont hit Your arm or hand on some poor unsuspecting portion of the truck.
This method has always worked for anything with a taper component that I have had to disassemble. ie rods, ball joints, steering knuckles, You name it.
Easy, Marty !!!! Remember "the heart"!!!
 

Chevyguy

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I second the BFH. I recently did mine. Added some heat and beat the hell out of it with a 4lb short handle sledge. Took a while and was suprised when it finally knocked out.

It might help if you can put a piece of wood behind the bar to keep it from flexing and absorbing the hit.
PB Blaster helps too.

Clayton

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Vbb199

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PB Blaster helps too.

Clayton

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PB blaster and a BFH? [emoji1787]

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ali_c20

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BFH and some muscle.
 

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