Squishy brakes- help!

[88suburbanoverlan]

Hey guys I just picked up my 86 burb today! Main thing I need to address is the brakes since I have to stomp on it to get it to stop. Seems to have brake fluid because in moving the cap around some spilled down the side on the master cylinder.

Should I just do brakes all around or do I need to adjust something? I haven’t seen the brakes yet because I don’t have a jack or stands- have to wait to get it in the shop Wednesday but wanted to see if I could do something myself to fix this.

Also it’s been sitting a year but I flushed the fuel line and got it started right up! So far planning a complete fluid flush, brakes and interior then paint later. Let me know if I should address anything else- I’m taking it cross country next week!

 

[fast 99]

Do a complete brake inspection. Pack front bearings, check or change all fluids, check for leaks. Inspect from one end to the other. Look at u joints for signs of rust in the crosses, looseness, ect.

 

[Dano500]

Hey guys I just picked up my 86 burb today! Main thing I need to address is the brakes since I have to stomp on it to get it to stop. Seems to have brake fluid because in moving the cap around some spilled down the side on the master cylinder.

Should I just do brakes all around or do I need to adjust something? I haven’t seen the brakes yet because I don’t have a jack or stands- have to wait to get it in the shop Wednesday but wanted to see if I could do something myself to fix this.

Also it’s been sitting a year but I flushed the fuel line and got it started right up! So far planning a complete fluid flush, brakes and interior then paint later. Let me know if I should address anything else- I’m taking it cross country next week!

Mine are the same, so I replaced the master cylinder and it definitely helped, but not enough as I still have to press down pretty hard to stop. I read that after bleeding the MC & still having issue, you have to bleed each wheel in case there is air down the lines. That's my next step.

 

[78C10BigTen]

Mine are the same, so I replaced the master cylinder and it definitely helped, but not enough as I still have to press down pretty hard to stop. I read that after bleeding the MC & still having issue, you have to bleed each wheel in case there is air down the lines. That's my next step.

Start at the wheel farthest from the master... passengers rear

 

[Dano500]

@78C10BigTen Thank you!

 

[78C10BigTen]

Mine are the same, so I replaced the master cylinder and it definitely helped, but not enough as I still have to press down pretty hard to stop. I read that after bleeding the MC & still having issue, you have to bleed each wheel in case there is air down the lines. That's my next step.

Also may need to check the rubber lines for signs of dry rot and collapse. My 78 had a locked caliper so i changed both and the same one would grab and not release, the rubber line was blocked.

 

[88suburbanoverlan]

Thank you guys for the responses. This definitely helped! I found out the brake pads are new in the front, so I’m assuming they are new in the back even though I can’t see because of the drums.

I did a brake bleed, starting with the furthest from the master cylinder and worked my way up and it didn’t make a big difference so I think down the line I’m going to do a rear disc brake conversion.

I at least have peace of mind now for the upcoming trip, knowing there’s no air in the lines

 

[scrap--metal]

I’m assuming they are new in the back even though I can’t see because of the drums.

I did a brake bleed, starting with the furthest from the master cylinder and worked my way up and it didn’t make a big difference so I think down the line I’m going to do a rear disc brake conversion.

Check your rear brakes before buying a disc conversion. If the rear brake shoes are way out of adjustment, i.e. loose, you won't get them to bleed right. You won't get the proper pedal feel either.

 

[Camar068]

if you decide to change the master cylinder or the front calipers, go ahead and change the front hoses. They aren't expensive and you've got to bleed again anyway.

[edit] while ur at it, change the rear one so they are the same age....and peace of mind.

 

[Grit dog]

It’s not squishy because they’re drums. It is squishy because something is wrong. Don’t confuse the two things.

 

[Snoots]

I’m assuming they are new in the back even though I can’t see because of the drums.

NEVER EVER, EVER, ASSUME!

 

[Lowered87]

Fiush out all of the lines and put in fresh fluid. Willwood has in-line back pressure devices that keep some pressure on the line for quicker reaction.

 

[88suburbanoverlan]

Thanks everyone it was in fact, the air in the lines and I got it all fixed up. I had a 68 Camaro with the same brake set up and I just have to drive it carefully. When you go from a brand new vehicle to a late model, there are some adjustments to make when anticipating the stop. I think eventually I’ll look for a 14 bolt rear end with disc brakes and just do a swap. They should get me by for my cross country trip coming up thanks guys!

 

[Grit dog]

Thanks everyone it was in fact, the air in the lines and I got it all fixed up. I had a 68 Camaro with the same brake set up and I just have to drive it carefully. When you go from a brand new vehicle to a late model, there are some adjustments to make when anticipating the stop. I think eventually I’ll look for a 14 bolt rear end with disc brakes and just do a swap. They should get me by for my cross country trip coming up thanks guys!

Good to hear.
You’re also misusing the term “late model”. That means “newer” not older.
Regardless, idk what you’re trying to say. What adjustments are you referring to? Disc/drum or even drum/drum will stop just the same and just as quick as disk/disk when you push the pedal.
Heck, my ‘74 CJ5 may have the second best brakes in the fleet, behind my wife’s SRT8 (with 6 piston Brembos up front). That old Jeep with 4 wheel drums will almost do an endo or a stoppie!

 

[Bextreme04]

Good to hear.
You’re also misusing the term “late model”. That means “newer” not older.
Regardless, idk what you’re trying to say. What adjustments are you referring to? Disc/drum or even drum/drum will stop just the same and just as quick as disk/disk when you push the pedal.
Heck, my ‘74 CJ5 may have the second best brakes in the fleet, behind my wife’s SRT8 (with 6 piston Brembos up front). That old Jeep with 4 wheel drums will almost do an endo or a stoppie!

Agreed. My 1980 K25 with 14BFF and rear 13" drums will stop as well(or maybe better) than my 2011 K1500 Suburban. Solid pedal feel and stops on a dime. Rear disk brakes are not going to fix anything unless your rear brakes had an issue to begin with.