Spring Tuneup

[donmateo]

So I'm planning ahead to get some materials. I want to do a full workup since I'm not sure what the PO did or when. It's a 90 350 TBI in my K10.

I'm thinking:

Coolant change
Oil change (5W-30 or 10W-30?)
Fuel Filter
Plugs and Wires (Recommendations?)

Any other things I should do?

I'm also thinking of upgrading my alternator and maybe my starter, anyone have thoughts on this? I want an amp upgrade on the alt for sure with new battery cables. Doesn't need to be now, but the battery is out now anyways.

Also on a non-engine matter, my windows crawl up and down. I have to pound my drivers side door panel sometimes to get the motor working. How difficult is it to swap out the power motors?

 

[bucket]

Coolant, if it looks fine and tests fine, then it's fine.
10w30, with a good filter like AC Delco or Wix (NAPA).
About any fuel filter is ok.
For plugs, I'd go with AC Delco, NGK, Denso, or Accel. For wires, go with AC Delco, NAPA Blue, or a good brand like Accel/MSD/etc.

Window motors aren't hard to do if you are familiar with the process in these trucks. Many people consider them to be a pain.

 

[glockholiday]

Cap and rotor while you got the plugs and wires out.

 

[donmateo]

Cap and rotor while you got the plugs and wires out.

What's a good set to get?

 

[donmateo]

Coolant, if it looks fine and tests fine, then it's fine.
10w30, with a good filter like AC Delco or Wix (NAPA).
About any fuel filter is ok.
For plugs, I'd go with AC Delco, NGK, Denso, or Accel. For wires, go with AC Delco, NAPA Blue, or a good brand like Accel/MSD/etc.

Window motors aren't hard to do if you are familiar with the process in these trucks. Many people consider them to be a pain.

Awesome, thank you! I may tackle the window motors. Never done window motors, but you gotta learn sometime.

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

I'm a proponent of checking just about every single fluid because they're typically overlooked. You've got the engine oil and coolant down pat. I think you should look at your brake fluid. If it's black or brown, flush it. A brake bleed is tricky to do by yourself but a piece of cake with a buddy. Trans fluid is important. If it looks brown, it's probably a good idea to go ahead and drain, refill, and put a new filter. If you think you're power steering doesn't feel like it should, add some fluid. The one fluid that I have yet to do is differential oil. I would definitely drain and refill your rear one since it's always working, and it's healthier for your gears to have good oil. If you use your four wheel drive, the same for the front. If not, I'm sure it can wait. Make sure your serpentine belt is good. What you and the others have compiled so far is good stuff.

 

[smoothandlow84]

Don't forget the differential fluids as well...often overlooked and never changed (especially if its a four wheel drive and submerged in mud/water).

 

[donmateo]

Don't forget the differential fluids as well...often overlooked and never changed (especially if its a four wheel drive and submerged in mud/water).

Never done this before, but doesn't look too bad. Is there a gasket (should it be replaced?) or do I get RTV? Also what dif fluid should I get? Torque spec on the bolts? Sorry for all the Qs, but not something I want to screw up.

Good time to figure out the gear ratio, too. lol

 

[bucket]

I just use RTV and snug up the bolts. I'm not picky about the fluid, just whatever the store stocks in the 80/90 variety.

 

[donmateo]

Alright, here's the list. I'll get some Mobil 1 10W-30 synthetic and Valvoline 80W-90 for the dif since I can't seem to find Mobil in that weight anywhere. Going to wait on the starter and alternator since they're not needing immediate replacement.

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[smoothandlow84]

I always scrape off the old paper gasket , install a light film of high temp (red) rtv on the diff housing and also a light film on the diff cover. I always use a new gasket (im ocd and hate fluid leaks). Before re-filling the diff with new 80-90w diff fluid, I usually wait overight for the rtv to cure BEFORE filling. In the past I have rushed the dry time only to have a leak. There is a plug usually on the passengers side of the diff above the axle tube that is the fill hole. A 3/8" ratchet works best to loosen/tighten this plug. When the cover and bolts are back on the diff and the rtv cured, add the gear oil until it begins to drip out of the plug hole, this will indicate when its full. Tighten the plug and your set. Be aware that the 80/90w gear oil smells horribly and its thicker than conventional oil. I look for 80/90w gear oil that comes in the plastic jugs that have a pointed cap ( you can also buy 1 gallon bulk gear oil as well). If you cut about a 1/4" off of the top of the container and attach a clear tube on the end, it helps when filling the diff in cramped quarters. Attach the tubing on the tip, place the other end of the tubing into the diff fill hole and squeeze the bottle. The clear tubing will allow you to monitor the flow of oil out of the container. I keep a few empty containers of this type for filling other hard to reach places on equipment.

As far as what gear oil...I use Royal Purple 80-90w rear diff fluid and Felpro gaskets. You can use whatever brand. It comes down to personal preference.

 

[donmateo]

Really appreciate the walk-through! Seems pretty manageable. Will be doing this in a few weeks when it warms up a bit.

 

[87scotty]

Limited slip needs a certain type of fluid

 

[donmateo]

Limited slip needs a certain type of fluid

As far as I know mine's just a locker, not LSD.

 

[bucket]

Not many people share my opinion about the proper use of RTV. I have NEVER waited for it to set up at all, just put down a bead and install the part. Unless it's a pressurized system (like coolant) I never wait to put in fluids either. Never had any troubles at all. Never had any leaks from not using a diff cover gasket either.

But, everyone has their own way.