roof rust "paint?"

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

plugugly

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 6, 2023
Posts
105
Reaction score
50
Location
rocklin, ca
First Name
Damon
Truck Year
87
Truck Model
blazer
Engine Size
6.2 diesel
the sons roof is fairly rusty. he spent the day with a DA sander but the metal is still "brown" and not cleaning up and shiny like fresh metal. We are hoping to just paint it with something until he can afford a paint job, which would likely require filler up there to smooth it out. With winter coming, we are just trying to prevent it from getting worse.

Is there any product that should be applied to the sanded metal to stop any rusting at this point prior to spraying with a primer?
 

Ricko1966

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2017
Posts
5,102
Reaction score
7,983
Location
kansas
First Name
Rick
Truck Year
1975
Truck Model
c20
Engine Size
350
You could use rustoleum rusty metal primer, it is meant to be painted over rust and won't work well on clean metal,top coat with regular rustoleum. But your going to need to strip all the rustoleum products back off when you decide to do the job right.
 

75gmck25

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2016
Posts
2,188
Reaction score
2,072
Location
Northern Virginia
First Name
Bruce
Truck Year
1975
Truck Model
K25 Camper Special TH350 NP203
Engine Size
5.7
I’m not a body & paint guy, but could you use POR-15 and then paint over it later? It’s used a lot to prevent rust on the chassis or in the engine compartment, but I don't know if you can use it under a body paint job.
 

Grit dog

Full Access Member
Joined
May 18, 2020
Posts
6,623
Reaction score
11,428
Location
Auburn, Washington
First Name
Todd
Truck Year
1986, 1977
Truck Model
K20, C10
Engine Size
454, 350
Epoxy or DTM primer. Then decide whether to top coat it or leave as is. Epoxy should be weatherproof for a “winter” if appearance doesn’t matter. Other primers, especially polyester (typical filler primer) is more porous and not suited for long term moisture exposure.
If you’ve done all the basic prep, it makes sense to spend a few bucks more on something you won’t need to remove completely later when doing the actual bodywork.
 

legopnuematic

Licensed Junk Dealer
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2016
Posts
2,253
Reaction score
5,400
Location
MO
First Name
Spencer
Truck Year
1971, 1̶9̶7̶4, 1976, 1979,1̶9̶8̶5, 2002
Truck Model
Dart Swinger, Sierra 10, C10 Cheyenne, C10 Big Ten, Silverado 10, Ram 2500
Engine Size
225/6, 350 c.i., 350 c.i., 5.9l Cummins
Good points from Todd, epoxy would a fine choice.

It is not an epoxy, but Tamco’s 5311 is pretty resistant to the elements. I replaced my trailers fenders this time last year, primed them with 5311, it has sat outside for a year, snow, rain, wind, sun, they look the same as they did the day I sprayed them.
 

fast 99

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2021
Posts
1,886
Reaction score
2,681
Location
Spokane, Washington
First Name
Brian
Truck Year
81,85
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
350
Thought about Por 15 as well but I think removing it later on for finishing might be a problem. That stuff is like iron when dry.

How much of the vehicle is rusty? It might save you a lot of time to prepare it properly now rather than undoing a seal coat. Does anyone in your area do slurry blasting? I used that process on a bed last year. No metal warping and quick.
 

mxer147

83 K20, 350 vortec, 465, 208, 14/10, 4.10, 33s
Joined
Feb 8, 2023
Posts
564
Reaction score
1,987
Location
Colorado
First Name
Jack
Truck Year
1983
Truck Model
k20
Engine Size
350
Try an oxidized area with naval jelly, cover with plastic wrap for a day or so, preferably indoors. I’ve had good success with it to remove rust. After that, epoxy primer like most recommend. Wear proper safety protection when using.
 

cmichels83

Junior Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2023
Posts
22
Reaction score
39
Location
Fargo
First Name
Craig
Truck Year
1983
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
350
You could use rustoleum rusty metal primer, it is meant to be painted over rust and won't work well on clean metal,top coat with regular rustoleum. But your going to need to strip all the rustoleum products back off when you decide to do the job right.
I used Rustoleum rusty metal primer on a pickup box trailer a few years back and it holding up well. I only used the rusty metal primer on the bare metal that was rusty. The whole thing was rattle canned. It's a trailer, so didn't car about show car finish.

Just note, it REALLY sticks! I was trying to sand on some pipe slide rails for my jeep that I had used that primer on, and the primer really didn't want to come off.
 

Attachments

  • 20220712_192844.jpg
    20220712_192844.jpg
    161.8 KB · Views: 12
  • 20220716_172412.jpg
    20220716_172412.jpg
    86.7 KB · Views: 12

peats

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2016
Posts
300
Reaction score
254
Location
Pennsylvania
First Name
john
Truck Year
72k5, 81c10 short step, 83k10 short fleet, 03 SSR. 25 chevy doodlebug
Truck Model
k5 c10 k10 SSR doodlebug
Engine Size
406 360 6.2 5.3 171
POR 15 is not UV friendly. It will be very hard to remove later.
 

Fat 454

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2012
Posts
98
Reaction score
164
Location
Australia
First Name
Andy
Truck Year
1973
Truck Model
C20 Suburban
Engine Size
454
Like @fast99 says - you will want to get the roof wet "sand" / media blasted to clean out the rust to bare metal. whether you do this first, or come back to it later, I would invest in an airless spray gun and hit it first with a cold galvanising ( zinc ) primer. This should prevent further rust. A high build primer should be next, to fill and smooth the surface. Then seal everything with a straight enamel gloss top ( colour ) coat. The gloss coat will seal the primer coats to prevent moisture getting to the surface.
If you can clean the metal back first, you will just be able to wet sand back / re-spray to get a good finish later., if needed. If you primer and paint it without cleaning the metal, you will need to get everything blasted back to bare metal when you are ready, and then build up from there.
I wouldn't use POR or any of the rust treatment paints, as they will be a real pain to try and remove later for a proper finish.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
43,555
Posts
937,896
Members
35,451
Latest member
malditorama
Top