Roller break-in?

[Frankenchevy]

I’m heading to Napa in a bit to pick up some oil. New L31-R, aka Vortec 350 96-99. Oem long block, stock internals.

What is the break-in procedure? I know it’s not nearly as critical of a procedure as in a flat tappet cam.

This was my plan, tell me if any part of it sounds dumb:

1. Fill with break in oil<——this is the part that may be a bad idea...

2. Moly lube my priming tool. Prime engine for a total of 5 minutes, rotating the crank 90 degrees several times during the 5 minutes.

3. Install distributor, fire engine and adjust timing. I didn’t plan of running it 2k-2500 rpm for 20 minutes or any similar flat tappet type procedure. What I was going to do instead is allow the sniper efi to idle and spend 15 or so minutes letting it burp the coolant bubbles from the block, make sure oil pressure looks good, listen for funny noises, etc.

3. Change oil and filter. Replace with Dino 5w30 and run it for 1000 miles then change again.

Anything you guys would do differently?

 

[yevgenievich]

The only thought behind using break in oil on a full roller motor is mainly due to regular oils trying to be too efficient with not as much of antiwear protection.

 

[Snoots]

If you don't have a magnetic oil drain plug, I'd find a HUGE magnet and attach it to the base of the oil filter before start-up.

I should've saved stuff that came out of my filter after I cut the bottom off for show-and-tell.
And I had pressure cleaned the block after all of the machine work.

 

[shiftpro]

If you don't have a magnetic oil drain plug, I'd find a HUGE magnet and attach it to the base of the oil filter before start-up.

To pick up the broken rollers?

 

[shiftpro]

The only thought behind using break in oil on a full roller motor is mainly due to regular oils trying to be too efficient with not as much of antiwear protection.

Compensate by adding a table spoon of lapping compound.

 

[bucket]

The engine should have been screwed together with assembly lube on all critical moving parts. It wouldn't hurt to prime it briefly, but I don't see the need. When the trucks went down the assembly line, they were simply started when it was time to run them.

I'd just fill it with oil and start it. Drive normally for the first couple hundred miles, then change the oil and use the truck as hard as needed.

 

[Frankenchevy]

The engine should have been screwed together with assembly lube on all critical moving parts. It wouldn't hurt to prime it briefly, but I don't see the need. When the trucks went down the assembly line, they were simply started when it was time to run them.

I'd just fill it with oil and start it. Drive normally for the first couple hundred miles, then change the oil and use the truck as hard as needed.

No matter if it sat dry for a year?

Sounds cheaper and easier, if so...

 

[shiftpro]

I'd just fill it with oil and start it. Drive normally for the first couple hundred miles, then change the oil and use the truck as hard as needed.

If you really want to oil prime, just leave the spark plugs out and spin it over with the starter for a minute... done, it's primed.

 

[Snoots]

Can't help it.
I'd prime it by removing the dizzy and use an oil pump drive tool.

 

[Frankenchevy]

Can't help it.
I'd prime it by removing the dizzy and use an oil pump drive tool.

I already cut up the old vortec dizzy into the tool anyhow.

 

[SquareRoot]

**** can the Sniper and run a carb or tuned efi. An untuned Sniper is a can of worms unto itself. Ask me how I know.

 

[Frankenchevy]

**** can the Sniper and run a carb or tuned efi. An untuned Sniper is a can of worms unto itself. Ask me how I know.

I’ll take my chances. The sniper is fully tunable if need be.

 

[Backfoot100]

I’ll take my chances. The sniper is fully tunable if need be.

Funny....same can be said about any carb and nobody takes the time or effort to do it. If they did they wouldn't be needing the Sniper.

Sorry, I'm a die hard carb guy....

 

[Frankenchevy]

When you drive from sea level to 14000’, a carb will need to be rejetted to run well. I go to both elevations regularly enough to not want to deal with it.

If I lived in Florida where the highest elevation is 345’ , I’d run a carb too.

 

[rpcraft]

Roller cams do not need to be broken in - if you care to read further here is a link to the Pace web page - https://paceperformance.com/p-3978-engine-start-up-procedure.html

You still want to make sure and seat the piston rings. There are a lot of opinions on the right process. I personally am a fan of the hard break in procedure.