OK, several things.
With the Hooker headers, they routed the pipe to get a better tune from them, without going full-boat. This makes the #5 and #6 wire routing a little weird. The trick is to use wire holders, and to exit the #5 and #6 wires *first* and loop them forward, then exit the #7 and #8 wires from where you think the #5 and #6 would go, and loop them back. So in this picture, from the outside in, the wires are #6, #8, #4, #2.
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The H-pipe on a K truck is hard to do ahead of the transfer case. The picture shows mine. The issue is that the firing order on a V-8 is not L-R-L-R-L-R-L-R; it's L-R-R-L-R-L-L-R. Those two pulses, one after the other on the same side, mean that #4 and #7 cylinders exhaust into a higher pressure than the others. The H-pipe relieves that pressure to the other pipe, which is currently low pressure. There's no actual flow: the air in the H-pipe just moves back and forth. This results in somewhat greater low-end torque. The H-pipe in these pics bends down around the drive shaft, just behind the parking brake cable, under the transfer case tail cone
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Your carb tuning changes are here:
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=32168.msg272122#msg272122
Primaries: jets .092 (#1425), rods .062 x .052 (#1441); secondaries: stock; step-up springs: 8# (comes with #1464). You will also need to replace the airhorn gasket (qty 5 is #1499) when you change the primary jets. Adjust the float bowls while you are in there, as they will be wrong.
As for the engine bay, Aw, shucks. Only change from this pic right now is a straight radiator house that gets rid of the dog-leg original. I can do that because I got rid of the shroud and the propeller on the front of the engine. I went to an electric fan, and love it. Quicker spool-up on the engine, and better heat in the cab.
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I also block the grill in the winter with a fender protector. Otherwise it runs cold all the time and mileage sucks.
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