Putting 3/4 ton suspension on 1/2 ton 2wd Suburban

[Slick_james187]

Hello all! I'm new to the forum, and I have a few questions for the well educated.

I'm getting a sweet clean 77 c10 suburban, 454/TH400 for $400, the prior owner is even smogging it for me (I'm in California)

My issue with the truck is that the suspension & front end are worn out, rides like a boat. It sits a little low for my liking as well.

I've read in places that swapping in 3/4-1 ton coils could potentially give me 2 inches of lift.

I'm wanting to ditch the 12 bolt for a 14 bolt and heavier leafs, and swap out the front 5 lug setup for 8 lug.

How hard is this swap?

Any help would be greatly appreciated

 

[bucket]

Rear is easy, just swap the springs (probably will need to move the rear hangers back to the second set of holes) and bolt the rear axle in. Driveshaft will need a conversion joint at the rear. Front is more involved, everything needs replaced. Control arms and all.

 

[Slick_james187]

Good to know.
If I had the full front end setup off a c20 it should all bolt on correct?

I just figure since the front end is getting ripped apart anyways (eats front tires like crazy), I may as well beef it up a bit.

Thanks for the tip!

 

[bucket]

The only thing I'm not sure of is whether or not you need the front crossmember too.

 

[Slick_james187]

Alright, cool.
I'll just plan to pick up a crossmember as well when I'm at the salvage yard.
Thanks for the help man! Had a hard time finding all the info in one spot.

 

[Bossmanivy]

Getting the whole front xmember and arms and spindles is the way to go. Should just bolt right in. Your big expense will be wheels and tires. Good luck!

 

[Slick_james187]

That is the plan, unfortunately the salvage yard I went to only had 2 square bodies and both were 4x4.

Another question, what would you call the very front cross member under the radiator where the break proportioner and brake lines are bolted to?
I'll take a pic tomorrow.
This one looks like someone got stuck was trying to pull the truck out hooked to this cross member. Peeled it almost all the way off the rivets, kinked the brake lines and such... gonna need a new one.

Should I drill the rivets and bolt up the new one, or weld it in?

 

[bucket]

It's exactly that, a front frame crossmember. They are commonly bent from wrecker drivers that shouldn't be driving a wrecker. If you find a replacement, just bolting it in with grade 8 hardware will work well.

 

[Slick_james187]

Yeah, that was my first thought when I saw it. Explains why the brake pedal was hard when I drove it the few miles home.

Here are a few pics of my unpolished turd. As I keep finding problems, I may start a build thread.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Slick_james187]

So I started a build thread in Under Construction
http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10502

Stay tuned to see how this truck comes together!

 

[Chuck]

Y not just go 4x4 seems easier


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Slick_james187]

Y not just go 4x4 seems easier


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don't have the need for 4x4 in this rig, it's a weekend cruiser and camping rig. I want the 3/4 ton stuff for peace of mind, and because I feel the suspension is a little too soft. The rear end tends to bounce with weight in it, and the front springs, although heavy half for the 454, are really squishy. 3/4 springs (maybe even 1 ton coils up front) and a 14 bolt just make more sense with a 454 and a load of camping gear that stays in the truck.

With that said, I have just brought home a parts rig :-D

 

[jetman]

I am in process of upgrading my k10 pickup (was a 10 bolt, 3.08 ratio) to k20 3/4 ton. Got a front/rear from a 3/4 ton suburban; rear is 14 bolt, 9.5 ring gear, geared 3.42, semi-floater. I installed a G80 gov-lock in it, cost was $100 for that.

The rear axle installation was drop dead simple, no issues at all, did it in one day by myself. Kept the axle light during the install by waiting to re-install the axle shafts and drums till after I got er moved into position and bolted up. This install did not require a conversion U-joint; was able to use the same U-joint and driveshaft without any mods at all.

New rear axle is running sweet, though the Eaton G-80 is not real popular with the hard-core rock crawling crowd, my G-80 is working perfecting at present. I will not be dogging this truck, expect the G-80 will provide several years of service for me. (I kept my "open differential" and have it ready if needed.)

Am in process of replacing the ball joints on the front axle so that I can get it installed and have the gear ratios matching so 4x4 can be used once again.

 

[Slick_james187]

Good **** man. Would be cool if I dont need the conversion joint for the 14 bolt. Anyone know where to score a set of 8 lug 15" wheels?