preformed brake lines

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wick

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I am a newbie, have a 80 step side, power disk/drum. I have been attempting to replace all of the brake lines. I ordered a set from Classic industries that were "preformed" thinking it was an easy bolt on project. The steel lines weren't formed correctly and I had to hand bed them, not a good idea. I ordered another set and the lines coming from the master cylinder were off 180 degrees, talked to their tech and he is sending a different set for 81-87 to see if they fit better.
After all that, my question is... what is the difference between the 2 groups of years for brake lines and master cylinder? Thanks in advance.
 

bucket

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In the 80's, the master cylinder was often an aluminum design with a plastic tank. But it also varies between 3/4 ton and 1/2 ton.

No matter the year, the lines are run roughly the same. If some bends were off 180 degrees, it was probably a manufacturing hiccup.
 

wick

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Thanks bucket, Just out of curiosity I checked AutoZone and punched in 1980 then 1982 chevy c-10 for their master cylinder. there were cast MC for both years with different part #'s. I did see the plastic ones you talked about. just wondering why the 2 choices 73-80, then 81-87. and the 2 choices for the brake lines.
 

bucket

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I just think their line kits are not exact fit, just "generally fits".

There are so many variations over the years, there's no way it can be covered with just a couple generalized year splits.
 

wick

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I ordered a new front brake line kit from Classic industries for 81-87 trucks, got credit for returning my second order of 73-81. The tech took a picture of the line in question, and it looks more similar. Also ordered a 73-80 kit from inline tube. both will arrive next week, eager to see the difference.
 

bucket

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Please let us know how it goes!
 

donnieray

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With booster or without booster is the difference. I have a 86 C10 stripper with disks on front but no booster.
 

wick

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thanks, but why the change in brake lines and master cylinder starting in 81?
 

Shorty81

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Some 1979 components carried over on 80's. Depends whether it is a early 80 or late 80. I ran into a mess with my last 80. GM was ramping up for the " all new 1981 truck" and they used up what they had to build out old stock.
 

wick

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that makes sense. There are some parts catalogs that don't even state the year 1980, they will go 73-79 and 81-87
 

CiscoKid

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Another option is to buy the nickel/copper tubing off Amazon or your favorite store and make your own. It bends easy and shouldn't rust. Cheaper and way easier to work with compared to stainless lines. I bought a flaring tool and it worked great. This was my first time doing this and would definitely go this route if I ever did it again.
 

wick

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Good option.
Just received my replacement lines (81-87) from Classic Industries. Just eyeballing it for now, it looks a lot more like it should be. Still strange because my truck is a 1980. I am waiting for a delivery tomorrow from in-line tubing for 73-80 truck and will compare and give a posting on what I have found. thanks for the idea CiscoKid.
As Shorty81 pointed out, 80 might be a conglomeration of 'old"style and 'new' style parts
 

wick

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Received the lines from in-line tubing today for 73-80 c-10. I laid them down next to the lines from Classic industries 81-87. They are very similar. The only real difference I could see was the larger (1/4 inch) line had a different bend after the loops coming out of the master cylinder. Either package looks like they will 'work'. Guess I'll find out when I go to install them. Sorry for the shadows. The lines with the red covers are from Classic (81-87).
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wick

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All done. when comparing the two brands, Classic Industries and Inline Tubing, They are close, but I would go with inline tubing, the bends are more like factory originals.
This is a side note.... I also replaced the proportional valve. I purchased a plastic "bleeding tool" to go in where the brake switch is located, Supposedly to keep the switch from activating while bleeding. I kept having a small leak but couldn't tell exactly where it was coming from, I assumed a bad valve. As it turns out, the brake switch has an o-ring, the plastic tool didn't. I put an o-ring on the tool and no leaks.
 

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