Pitman Arm Installation

[Doppleganger]

Ready to start assembling my steering. Have the Pitman arm ready with new cone washers and nuts. Arm itself is minty.....even the studs are in excellent shape.

Just wondering if there are any special steps, such as setting those cones (pounding them down tight) before tightening the nuts. Also....anyone know the torque specs? Actually, torque specs for the drag links and tie rod ends also (or just a link where to find them).

Been looking everywhere and any vids are so general they're pointless or they are doing one on a different vehicle altogether.

Thanks fellas.

 

[Doppleganger]

So I take it I am simply to put these in and torque them to 186ft lbs? That will draw the cone washers down in ok? Will that turn the knuckle so -maybe- I have to connect the rest of the steering rods first?

 

[bucket]

A dozen ugga-duggas has always worked for me. The nuts seat the cone washers.

As for the tie rod and drag link ends, just a couple light-throttle ugga-duggas, then follow with with a brisk ugga or dugga as needed, until the castle nuts line up with the cotter hole.

 

[Doppleganger]

Now, thats just one ugga-dugga or an ugga-ugga-dugga, then an ugga-dugga? Dont want to dugga when I should be ugga-ing.








It late. I need to go to bed.

 

[75gmck25]

I think you are talking about the steering arm that is bolted on the left front hub, since that arm is what has the three cone-shaped nuts. The pitman arm is clamped on the hub coming out of the steering box. I can't find the recommended torque figure for those three nuts, but I think it was 80-90 ft lbs. I also used thread locker on them.

There are repair manuals for each years on this site, so take a look at the pictures of how to install the drag link. I think the pictures are kind of confusing, but finally figured out the orientation of the clamps after a few tries. Also make sure the two connectors on the ends are oriented almost exactly opposite to each other, not canted at an odd angle. Make sure the steering goes fully lock to lock and nothing on the drag link hits anything to stop the movement.

 

[Doppleganger]

I think you are talking about the steering arm that is bolted on the left front hub, since that arm is what has the three cone-shaped nuts. The pitman arm is clamped on the hub coming out of the steering box. I can't find the recommended torque figure for those three nuts, but I think it was 80-90 ft lbs. I also used thread locker on them.

There are repair manuals for each years on this site, so take a look at the pictures of how to install the drag link. I think the pictures are kind of confusing, but finally figured out the orientation of the clamps after a few tries. Also make sure the two connectors on the ends are oriented almost exactly opposite to each other, not canted at an odd angle. Make sure the steering goes fully lock to lock and nothing on the drag link hits anything to stop the movement.

I think these are something ludicrous like 180ft lb range. Crazy.

I put the cone washers and used a long punch to seat them. Then the nut and an impact. Worked very well.

 

[shiftpro]

Now, thats just one ugga-dugga or an ugga-ugga-dugga, then an ugga-dugga? Dont want to dugga when I should be ugga-ing.








It late. I need to go to bed.

Uggaoff bro!

 

[Doppleganger]

A dozen ugga-duggas has always worked for me. The nuts seat the cone washers.

As for the tie rod and drag link ends, just a couple light-throttle ugga-duggas, then follow with with a brisk ugga or dugga as needed, until the castle nuts line up with the cotter hole.

Do the conical washers need to be flush into the pitman arm? The book says to get a free spinning 5/8 nut to "seat them". I used a body hammer and punch to seat them as far as they'd go. They still stick up about 1/16" or so. I would be afraid of stripping those studs to get a large impact on it and go nuts (nuts - get it? I made a funny).

 

[bucket]

They don't need to be flush. Unless you are going at it with a 1" impact, I wouldn't worry about stripping the threads.

 

[Raider L]

@bucket.
A 1" impact??!! Dang, Man I thought you've been talking about putting them in by hand!!? I need a new drag link. I guess my suspension shop will be putting it on for me. After my new suspension was put in my shop guy said I'd be needing a new drag link pretty soon just not right now.