Paint.

[Boondock]

Boondock here again with a question for my fellow square enthusiast.
I plan on painting my truck by the end of next year, if not the beginning of it. I've looked into some places and at first Maaco was a choice, but their reviews are absolutely terrible. It varies from shop to shop, though.. So I don't know.

There's another shop in my town though called "Color Me Wild". I'm a bit on a limited budget being a teen and all, but I would really like to have my truck painted. I was wondering how does this sound to you guys?

Deluxe Exterior/One Color Only

WASH - Removes any surface material
HAND DRY SAND - For paint adhesion
PAINT - Using Acrylic Enamel with hardener
HEAT DRY - For color retention/durability

NO WARRANTY $695.00+$150/truck

or

Premier Exterior/One Color Only

WASH - Removes any surface material
DRY SAND WITH SANDER - For paint adhesion
PAINT - Using polyurethane
SEAL - Use polysealer for protection
HEAT DRY - For color retention/durability

SIX MONTH WARRANTY $995.00+$150/truck

 

[Old77]

Do NOT go with Maaco!!

 

[Boondock]

That's what I figured. Haha. I've seen Color Me Wild's work. A buddy of mine's Yota got painted there. It cost him $2,800, but he also got new panels and all kinds of mess so I don't really know what kind of paint he got..

I mean, I'm not looking for show car quality, just something I can be proud of and say, "That's MY K10." Not cower in shame by such a bad paint job.

 

[Old77]

What worked out really well for me was I did all my own body work and prep and get it how I wanted it then found a shop to spray the color on for me. It worked out very well. Of course, he did some additional sanding prior to paint just to get it smoother but it was by far the most cost effective for me. The paint I got was DuPont and I got it from O'Reilly. They have a paint book where you can choose which paint code you like and order your paint. I chose an early 90's GM paint code.

Anyway, just some food for thought.

 

[Boondock]

I had thought about it, but I have absolutely no experience in priming and I would absolutely hate to have it run all over.. :/

 

[Old77]

I had thought about it, but I have absolutely no experience in priming and I would absolutely hate to have it run all over.. :/

Just takes practice, man, and once you learn it it's a great skill to have. Just some food for thought

 

[Boondock]

That's true, but at the same time there's all the trim on it. I don't mind taking off the trim on the sides, because I suppose that'd be quite simple.. But I have no idea how I'd take off the "Silverado 10" emblem on the fenders without removing the fenders or messing them up. Nor do I have the slightest clue how to take off the brushed aluminum band under the back windshield.. AND the band on the tailgate.. All a bit confusing to me.. Don't want to break any of those things since they're expensive as hell to replace.

 

[Old77]

That's true, but at the same time there's all the trim on it. I don't mind taking off the trim on the sides, because I suppose that'd be quite simple.. But I have no idea how I'd take off the "Silverado 10" emblem on the fenders without removing the fenders or messing them up. Nor do I have the slightest clue how to take off the brushed aluminum band under the back windshield.. AND the band on the tailgate.. All a bit confusing to me.. Don't want to break any of those things since they're expensive as hell to replace.

The fender emblem are easy. You can access the back of them by going through the inside of the fender. Just open the hood, reach back there and there they are the cab band is a bit more tricky. There are probably a dozen or a little more metal studs along the back of the cab that hold on retaining clips. Those retaining clips hold on that band. A similar system is used for the corner pieces as well. The tailgate band I'm not sure of but it could be similar.

 

[Boondock]

The fender emblem are easy. You can access the back of them by going through the inside of the fender. Just open the hood, reach back there and there they are the cab band is a bit more tricky. There are probably a dozen or a little more metal studs along the back of the cab that hold on retaining clips. Those retaining clips hold on that band. A similar system is used for the corner pieces as well. The tailgate band I'm not sure of but it could be similar.

I've tried to reach into the fender a few times and my hand just wont fit through those little holes. It's like it's waaaay back there. Would end up breaking my hand. Maybe I can fit a wrench in there and get it. I'll probably have to tackle getting off all those on the weekend so I can spend hours on it with fail and success tactics, whereas coming home from school, I literally only have two hours before it turns dark. I guess after I would get all that off, I guess it'd be ready for sanding.

 

[bucket]

Whatever trim you are able to remove will be 100% more than a cheap paint shop will remove.

Going cheap on a paint job for a truck you plan to keep is always a bad idea. It will just end up peeling, chipping, fading, etc and will end up looking like crap after a couple years. If you ever want to have a real paint job after that, it will be even more expensive because the cheap paint will all need sanded off. Most people don't realize how long it actually takes to sand off a layer or two of cheap paint, but it can be a bitch. Time costs money.

 

[89Suburban]

I had one paint job done in my life and it was at Macco on my first vechilce and it came out pretty damn good actually, but I know the reputation. But if you are broke and polishing a turd, go for it.

Whatever you can do ahead of time to save labor costs is a benefit. trim, wheel mouldings, light bezels, grille, etc. Even masking some stuff ahead of time.

This is the truck I had the cab painted by Macco, fire engine red, had that truck a few years and never had a problem with the paint:

You must be registered for see images

 

[SlickGTP]

The trim under the rear window is easy... it's the corner pieces that hold it in place side to side that's the issue. you have to get a wrench up inside the b pillars to get the sheet metal nuts that hold them on and then you can slide the long piece off.

Drove me nuts... wish I had had my ratcheting wrenches for those.

 

[woodsrider250]

Most of the cost in painting today is the extremely high cost of base/clear coat paints. If you can find a good body guy to do a job with GOOD enamel, it'll come out great. Sounds like you may have found a good place....try to find some more testimonials. Your 78 should have enamel on it from the factory IIRC.

 

[Boondock]

Sweet, thanks for all the information, guys. I'll probaby hop on getting the trim and emblems off this weekend, if the weather is right. I'm not much worried about the bezels, being as I plan on getting new ones in the near future anyways, but I'm still between keepin my OEM grille or replacing it with a billet. Decisions, decisions. Haha. But again, thanks for all the helpful information, guys. If any of you have any more suggestions, please do share, because I'm still young and learning.

Cheers, fellow squares! Haha.

 

[89Suburban]

Sweet, thanks for all the information, guys. I'll probaby hop on getting the trim and emblems off this weekend, if the weather is right. I'm not much worried about the bezels, being as I plan on getting new ones in the near future anyways, but I'm still between keepin my OEM grille or replacing it with a billet. Decisions, decisions. Haha. But again, thanks for all the helpful information, guys. If any of you have any more suggestions, please do share, because I'm still young and learning.

Cheers, fellow squares! Haha.

I would prefer to remove the bezels only to get the paint to wrap around the body panel and not have a "lip" around the bezel.