Oil Filter Conversion

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Ronno6

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The engine I am rebuilding was out of a '93 1500 with oil cooler and right angle filter mounting.
I am going to install it into me '84 C10.
What part (s) do I need to change to the older spin on filter?

If I am reading the parts list correctly it would need a #3952301 adapter and a couple of bolts.
Is that it??
 
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Rusty Nail

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Yes, that's likely but there is a oil filter adapter GASKET to block I have replaced one of those before. Not on my truck and it was probably a 2 piece block though?
Be aware of that possibility.

Take pix and good luck!
 

Rusty Nail

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Unknown but it seems likely.

I'm thinkin the deal I did it to had a factory oil cooler. That must be what i'm thinkin of, the oil cooler fitting / housing deal with the hose ends / barbs / wtfe.

Maybe it was an RV...

Carry on.

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PrairieDrifter

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You don’t need any gasket when running without an oil cooler. The oil filter adapter sits center then the oil filter seals around it, I’m not sure if a gasket even exists for it.
 

Ronno6

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Most adapters have a bypass valve; a few do not.
Pros/cons of each???
 

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Most adapters have a bypass valve; a few do not.
Pros/cons of each???

pro - with it allows oil to flow when filter is clogged or pressure is high.
con - when it bypasses the filter any metal in the oil is now in your bearings.

so the question becomes is this going to be a daily you fire up and take off immediately or a toy you can let warm up before taking off after oil pressure lowers.
 

Ronno6

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pro - with it allows oil to flow when filter is clogged or pressure is high.
con - when it bypasses the filter any metal in the oil is now in your bearings.

so the question becomes is this going to be a daily you fire up and take off immediately or a toy you can let warm up before taking off after oil pressure lowers.

That is something to ponder...
It does get cold here in the Deep South occasionally.
As my intake does not have a heat passage under the carb, I will most
probably need some warm up time, especially in the winter.
I am curious tho, about the function of the bypass when used in conjunction
with high pressure/flow oil pimps...
 

Rusty Nail

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Yeah ....but you are now wondering if it is better to pump FILTERED or UNFILTERED oil.

Granted the oil in the crankcase has ALREADY been filtered though...but...how long ago?

Use the AC DELCO filter #1218 what has an anti-drainback valve in it and forgetaboutit!
 

4WDKC

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Yeah ....but you are now wondering if it is better to pump FILTERED or UNFILTERED oil.

Granted the oil in the crankcase has ALREADY been filtered though...but...how long ago?

Use the AC DELCO filter #1218 what has an anti-drainback valve in it and forgetaboutit!

after seeing the bearings that were in my engine it was clear it was pumping unfiltered oil.
 

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Better to pump any oil than none....

The oil in the crankcase has been through the filter the last time you ran the engine. I'd guess it takes maybe a five minutes at idle to run the contents of the pan through the oil pump and filter and less at 2500RPM.

If you have metal filings or sand or dirt in the crankcase you have larger problems than what filter you are running on the engine.
 

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There actually is a gasket that goes between the adapter and the block, but I'm not sure it would make a difference if it was left out. Probably fine, but the gasket is super cheap. Or just cut one out of gasket paper.
 

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There actually is a gasket that goes between the adapter and the block, but I'm not sure it would make a difference if it was left out. Probably fine, but the gasket is super cheap. Or just cut one out of gasket paper.
I have never seen a gasket between the adapter and the block on any of the Chevy engines that I have taken apart and at least half of them were virgins. Never seen a gasket in an overhaul kit for that either! New one on me
 

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