Newbie: Idles rough, stalls when put into gear!

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CTread08

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When I inspect the distributor cap/rotor should I automatically replace both or look for cracks, looseness, corrosion, etc?
 

87scotty

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If its caroded replace if clean its probably fine! But I'm guessing there will be some buildup
 

Jrgunn5150

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Yup, ignore the ridiculous underhood sticker. If you happen to get pinging with 12 degrees, back it off a couple or just run a higher octane fuel.


FWIW, the guy's over at GMT400 (my DD is a 95 GMC TBI), swear up and down that anything more than the factory 0 degrees causes knocking.

Kinda blew my mind, I've never seen a motor that didn't enjoy some timing.

TO the OP, I'm going to say that your truck is probably just due for a tune up. It could also be running very rich, have you had a plug out to look at it?

Yes, check the cap. And make sure it has brass terminals, those brass part's store thing's are junk.
 

Georgeb

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The esc plug is right here between the steering column and the bulkhead connector through the firewall.
 

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Georgeb

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FWIW, the guy's over at GMT400 (my DD is a 95 GMC TBI), swear up and down that anything more than the factory 0 degrees causes knocking.

Kinda blew my mind, I've never seen a motor that didn't enjoy some timing.

TO the OP, I'm going to say that your truck is probably just due for a tune up. It could also be running very rich, have you had a plug out to look at it?

Yes, check the cap. And make sure it has brass terminals, those brass part's store thing's are junk.

Mine ran freaking great at 12 deg
 

CTread08

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Ok I'll check the cap. And do the tune up. If the cap or rotor probes to be bad, where should I buy a replacement since you said the parts store replacements are junk
 

CTread08

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And no I haven't had a plug out yet, but that is the plan for the weekend to replace plugs. If it's running rich they'll be black right? And I was told to use ACDelco plugs as that's what came from the factory?
 

Georgeb

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Ok I'll check the cap. And do the tune up. If the cap or rotor probes to be bad, where should I buy a replacement since you said the parts store replacements are junk

I have had good luck with the standard brand caps that have brass terminals. IMHO I believe they work better and stand up to the ozone corrosion that occurs inside the cap. But If your in doubt go with AC Delco parts.
 

Georgeb

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I would still spend some time checking for vacuume leakes and also checking on the egr valve. Your symptoms sound more like they pertain to that. I have seen some really bad ignition parts still run fairly well.
 

Jrgunn5150

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Ok I'll check the cap. And do the tune up. If the cap or rotor probes to be bad, where should I buy a replacement since you said the parts store replacements are junk

Sorry, I didn't mean not to get one from the store, just make sure it has the brass terminals, not the aluminum ones, they are the ones that suck.

And no I haven't had a plug out yet, but that is the plan for the weekend to replace plugs. If it's running rich they'll be black right? And I was told to use ACDelco plugs as that's what came from the factory?

Correct, black is rich, you may also notice some black smoke out the tail pipe. ACdelco's work fine for me, I use R45's in my small blocks, gap them yourself.
 

CTread08

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Ok I'll do some looking over that too. Is there a place on this forum to see the vacuum lines and their proper destinations/routes/etc. thinking about it now, there is a canister on the driver side, in front of the wheel well and behind the radiator that has two black tubes on the top, one of which is simply laying on top of the wheel well. If I can be pointed in the direction of a list or pictures or something showing the vacuum lines then I can go over all of them and rule that out.
 

Georgeb

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Here is some EGR info.
http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/gm/4.3L-5.0L-5.7L/stuck-open-egr-valve-tests-1
 

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