New Leaf Springs vs. Re-Arched with Add a leaf

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Brown Sugar

Junior Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2014
Posts
4
Reaction score
0
Location
Fort Worth
First Name
Judd
Truck Year
1983
Truck Model
K10 Suburban
Engine Size
350
My rear is sagging pretty bad on my 83 K10 Suburban and I want to get things leveled out. I am considering replacing the springs or having them rearched. I want to also give it support when pulling my old airstream. Does anyone have any experience or advice with this?
 

hirschdalechevy

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2011
Posts
726
Reaction score
517
Location
norcal
First Name
rich
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
k-30
Engine Size
454
I have done two of my k-20's with the add a leaf and re arch thing and it worked out great for me. However I did not go with a thick aftermarket add a leaf , just stock thickness. Our local spring shop is really good , so I guess it depends on the shop. I told them I needed two inches of lift and still wanted close to stock ride or I would bring them back , turned out pefect and they are holding up great. The reason I went this way instead of new springs was the cost factor and the stock spring I had were not broken or bent , just sat a little lower than before and I was after a little more lift , less block in the rear. So I am very happy with this set up , but I would not go with a thick ass , after market add a leaf , but thats just me.

So I would find a good spring shop that knows what they are doing if you go that route.

Also , I dont know the tongue wieght of the trailer you are pulling but you can run a nice riding soft spring and put air bags on it , I have this set up and it works great for heavy loads.

When I had the add/re arch done , it was 4 year's ago and it set me back 85.00 a side and that's taking them out yourself.

That included new rubber bushings as well.

:happy160:
 

chevyk10

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2014
Posts
358
Reaction score
6
Location
WV
First Name
Daniel
Truck Year
1984 chevy
Truck Model
k-10
Engine Size
358 Dart block with aluminum heads 430hp/450ft-lb torque
Speaking from years of experience as a suspension specialist. Arching an old spring does not last without adding a leaf. Actually the arch is not the benefit but the addition of the extra spring rate from the added leaf. The ride doesn't change much when you add a leaf because the old spring is weak and you are getting closer to the original strength. If you are going to pull a trailer there is no replacement for new springs. Insist on Dayton or Flagg springs ONLY!!!

I recommend a sway bar if you're going to hall much weight or tow a camper. Overloads are okay if there ones with the brackets that are on the frame and adjusted properly.

I love air bags and there adjustability but I still recommend a sway bar.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Joseph

Junior Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2014
Posts
5
Reaction score
0
Location
NY
First Name
Joseph
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
K30 / M1031
Engine Size
6.2L
Speaking from years of experience as a suspension specialist. Arching an old spring does not last without adding a leaf. Actually the arch is not the benefit but the addition of the extra spring rate from the added leaf. The ride doesn't change much when you add a leaf because the old spring is weak and you are getting closer to the original strength. If you are going to pull a trailer there is no replacement for new springs. Insist on Dayton or Flagg springs ONLY!!!

I recommend a sway bar if you're going to hall much weight or tow a camper. Overloads are okay if there ones with the brackets that are on the frame and adjusted properly.

I love air bags and there adjustability but I still recommend a sway bar.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I new here, recently purchase [September 2014] an older 1986 K30, M1031 CUCV, first pickup truck I have owned.

Read/reviewed this posting, as I have a leaf spring issue.

One of the leafs on the rear springs, the driver side is cracked {leaf number 3].

Think I will be replacing both sets of leaf spring with new one. The current spring are the original standard that where installed on these trucks, 9 leaf pack and one auxiliary /helper spring.

My intention is to use this truck as a daily work / service truck, as they where originally designed {truck has the original PTO generator, air compressor and welding machine]


If you where to "upgrade" the rear springs, replacing them with a new set what would you add?

Searching before I located this forum I was looking at new replacement spring manufactured by Eaton. Will be looking at and comparing spring's by "Dayton" or "Flagg"* as recommended by poster/user "chevyk10".

*FWIW, Flagg are sold under the trade name Triangle Spring

Your Comment, Suggestion and or Opinions.

Thank You

Joseph
 
Last edited:

MadOgre

Full Access Member
Joined
May 4, 2014
Posts
4,090
Reaction score
51
Location
NA
First Name
NA
Truck Year
NA
Truck Model
NA
Engine Size
NA
If you are replacing both rear springs with new stock style springs I would just install helper springs to help with the towing issues. I would also invest in a set of 6 greasable bolt pins for the bushings. Well worth the cost!

Just a note the after market lifted add a leafs are the exact same thickness as the stock leaf spring. Not to be confused with a spacer leaf. A spacer leaf goes at the bottom of the spring pack with a negative arch so in essence it is just a added lift in the same sense as a lift block but instead it is attached with the leaf spring center pin and is thus a part of the spring pack.

Add a leafs do how ever wear the main spring where the add a leaf contacts the main spring at each end of the add a leaf. Takes a good 10 years to become a problem in any way maybe longer if not used as a daily driver.
 
Last edited:

chevyk10

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2014
Posts
358
Reaction score
6
Location
WV
First Name
Daniel
Truck Year
1984 chevy
Truck Model
k-10
Engine Size
358 Dart block with aluminum heads 430hp/450ft-lb torque
If you are replacing both rear springs with new stock style springs I would just install helper springs to help with the towing issues. I would also invest in a set of 6 greasable bolt pins for the bushings. Well worth the cost!

Just a note the after market lifted add a leafs are the exact same thickness as the stock leaf spring. Not to be confused with a spacer leaf. A spacer leaf goes at the bottom of the spring pack with a negative arch so in essence it is just a added lift in the same sense as a lift block but instead it is attached with the leaf spring center pin and is thus a part of the spring pack.

Add a leafs do how ever wear the main spring where the add a leaf contacts the main spring at each end of the add a leaf. Takes a good 10 years to become a problem in any way maybe longer if not used as a daily driver.


Add a leaf means rougher ride. Will raise the truck. I would recommend a couple of things. One go down to your local spring shop, if you have one, and have them add a leaf too the original spring. They can arch it to match and put pads on the end. My preference has been to add an air bag kit. Nothing fancy just the 2500 lb version is fine. Run each line individually. I always use the valve stem to replace the license plate bolts. Handy to level your truck and carry a load. 20+ years of suspension experience.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
44,076
Posts
948,914
Members
36,148
Latest member
yeti_87
Top