New floor and question.

[Kevin Foust]

Going to replace most everything underneath with new metal. This is going to be a work truck so the floors will get wet from shoes and such. What is the best thing to protect or seal that has worked well for you on the INSIDE? Again, Not a show truck or numbers matching, just a working truck. Thanks for any input.

 

[RecklessWOT]

A lot of guys put truck bed liner in there (the kind that paints on). It seals and protects against rust, is very hard like epoxy so it won't scratch off like normal paint, and is textured so your boots won't slip around like bare metal. Rubberized undercoating would probably achieve the same results but I'd imagine that being a little less grippy and probably costs a little more too.


You could always buy a rubber/vinyl floor cover like came stock in a lot of trucks, pretty sure you can get them from LMC and other places for around $200 iirc (been a while since I had a pickup, only currently have the SUV catalog. Or you could always just throw a cheap carpet kit in there. Even though it's not a show truck, there's nothing wrong with carpet even in a work truck (it will still look nice especially if you won't mind when it gets dirty, anything is better than bare metal). It will also help insulate against noise and whatnot. Costs more than just spraying something in there, but realistically isn't that expensive.

 

[Kevin Foust]

A lot of guys put truck bed liner in there (the kind that paints on). It seals and protects against rust, is very hard like epoxy so it won't scratch off like normal paint, and is textured so your boots won't slip around like bare metal. Rubberized undercoating would probably achieve the same results but I'd imagine that being a little less grippy and probably costs a little more too.


You could always buy a rubber/vinyl floor cover like came stock in a lot of trucks, pretty sure you can get them from LMC and other places for around $200 iirc (been a while since I had a pickup, only currently have the SUV catalog. Or you could always just throw a cheap carpet kit in there. Even though it's not a show truck, there's nothing wrong with carpet even in a work truck (it will still look nice especially if you won't mind when it gets dirty, anything is better than bare metal). It will also help insulate against noise and whatnot. Costs more than just spraying something in there, but realistically isn't that expensive.

I've used the Herculiner stuff in a utility body but I think it would be a little too rough for a floor. The reason would be when you try to clean it out. I wouldn't be against the original style rubber floor but wanted to know if there was a really good coating that would protect it all under that mat. Just don't want to have to replace the floor again in 10 or 15 years.

 

[80BrownK10]

I've used the Herculiner stuff in a utility body but I think it would be a little too rough for a floor. The reason would be when you try to clean it out. I wouldn't be against the original style rubber floor but wanted to know if there was a really good coating that would protect it all under that mat. Just don't want to have to replace the floor again in 10 or 15 years.

You have to replace it cause it rusted out from something leaking would be my guess, not wet shoes and dirt wearing the floor. Have you checked your cowl seals?

 

[Kevin Foust]

You have to replace it cause it rusted out from something leaking would be my guess, not wet shoes and dirt wearing the floor. Have you checked your cowl seals?

It is being redone as well as where the cowl met the firewall had holes. We have salt, brine, humidity and beet juice spread in the Winter which is extremely hard on metal and gets dragged into the cab as well. Location has a lot to do with how bad it gets and we are in the rust belt. It's like driving on the beach for a 1/3 of the year.

 

[Frankenchevy]

I'm in the same boat as you, as I use my truck regularly and it's not a show truck. While I may paint it someday, I don't want to go down that rabbit hole yet. I looked at all the options that were cost effective, but wouldn't cause other issues.

only issue with rubber floors is that it can trap humidity and condensation between it and the floor. if you go with some sort of bedliner, off-gassing can be a problem. I'm sure some are better than others. lizard skin is a good coating and sound deadener in one. I made my own with aircraft microbeads which are hollow ''bubbles'' that are mixed into paint (often latex based) that act to deaden sound. I purchased the beads from an aircraft supply and the best foot traffic deck latex I could find. The latex can be made whatever color you want.

https://www.gmsquarebody.com/threads/rebuilding-my-truck.20949/page-54

 

[MisterB]

I'd paint the floor with Rustoleum bedliner, then carpet the cab and then use some good rubber floormats on top of that.

Sent from my SM-T720 using Tapatalk

 

[80BrownK10]

I think I would use some Rust-Oleum and maybe even add some texture additive to it so your not sliding around on it like it's ice if you have wet muddy feet. I agree with the rubber floor trapping moisture. But if you leaks are for sure sealed very little water should be getting behind it. Even wet boots moisture should stay on top.

I might be tempted to put many coats on the floor of paint and then maybe get some Heavy duty Velcro and then stick it to floor and get some Heavy duty water trapping floor mats and stick them in the truck so that it contains most of your water and much your shoes pull into the truck.

 

[Kevin Foust]

Thanks guys. It's such a catch 22. Leaving just paint you tend to scratch it off and then you'll get to bare metal. With Rubber it is fine till you get a hole you may not see then the water can't get air to evaporate and starts the rust process. I do have some time till I get ready to seal as I'm just about ready to start replacing the metal. I'll do the cowl area first and work my way down. Taking everything off/out of the cab except the steering column. Basically starting from scratch on this one.

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If all goes well I should have it ready to go tomorrow.

At this point, I'm leaning towards throw in rubber mats to catch the bulk and no carpet or held down rubber. Easy to clean that way. I can keep an eye on the actual floor that way too.

 

[Snoots]

A lot of guys put truck bed liner in there (the kind that paints on). It seals and protects against rust, is very hard like epoxy so it won't scratch off like normal paint, and is textured so your boots won't slip around like bare metal.

X2

 

[SDJunkMan]

I like that rotessiree, how does it attach? Can we see some pics from the side? I have to do some work on my cab floor too and that looks like a nice setup.

 

[Kevin Foust]

I like that rotessiree, how does it attach? Can we see some pics from the side? I have to do some work on my cab floor too and that looks like a nice setup.

I made it all up when I did my Dodge Military Truck. Shares the same cab as the Old style Power Wagons and will do the 2 other trucks I have here in the future. That is why I made a dedictaed set up to do the easily. I made some quick bolt on adaptors to use the same door mount. Uses the door hinges and rear mount hole. I also added a hand winch for spinning and holding it position so you can get a sweet spot to work. Too old/lazy to be on my back for that long. LOL

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Put the winch on the outside so you can simply reverse the direction of the cable to pull/hold opposite way.

 

[SDJunkMan]

Thanks for the pics, looks like I might have another welding project to do in the near future.

Does the cab balance pretty good where you have your pivot located?

 

[Kevin Foust]

Make it so you can adjust it like mine. Look close and you can see the whole center section is adjustable. Yes, it is balance there when in the normal position but they always over center at some point. That is why the hand winch is needed. Here is a link to building it originally. It's worth the time to do, especially if doing more vehicles.

http://imageevent.com/kevininohio/cabrotisserieandmover

 

[SDJunkMan]

Thanks for the link, I noticed the horizontal adjustments, do you think it would help to have vertical adjustment also?

Is the pivot point about 4' from the floor?