New axles from 1500 to 3500?

[Woody Burban]

I have an 1989 V1500 suburban running 35” tires, I just upgraded the leafs, I wanted to swap the stock semi float rear axle from a 10 bolt Chevy 3:08 axle to a 2500 or 3500 rear end in 4:56? I would like to swap the front axle too.

Any ideas if there is any easy leaf, shock mount matching axle I can swamp or what I should look for a G80 or 3/4 ton full float? Dana?

Buy a full matching set of 3500 axles?
Don’t want to buy em and then have a ton on welding to make em fit a V1500.

My axle seal is leaking now.

Thanks for any guidance!
Woody

 

[Vbb199]

Front axle if it's a 1 ton axle will be Chevrolet Dana 60. Those are used from like 78ish-91
will still be 31.5 centerpin spacing. Should be pretty direct to your 1/2 ton truck.
If its a earlier 73-77ish 1 ton, it'll be a Dana 44.

If its a 3/4 ton front axle... I'm not 100% sure, but it's around again, the 77-78 area it'll be a 8 lug 10 bolt like you have now. (Yours is currently 6 lug)

The axle shafts and such are the same, it just gets bigger brakes and rotors I think. Same axle from knuckles in.


The dana 60 would be dope, but
Good luck finding one though. Lol

If you're looking for 4.56 gears, a pair of military axles from a CUCV are right up your alley in terms of direct bolt in.




In terms of replacing the 10 bolt in the back, your easiest, most direct swap is a 14 bolt semi floater. (3/4 ton trucks after like, 1977 or so)

Earlier 73-76 (or some year range close to that) 3/4 ton trucks are a 14 bolt full float.


If you want a 14 bolt full floater, there will be spring perch differences. I cannot remember the numbers, but Cab & Chassis 14 bolts have a different spacing than standard Truck/pickup 14 bolt full floaters.


I'm not 100% exact on my years, but I know I'm pretty close

Maybe someone will chime in with spacing differences on c&c vs truck and the year ranges.


But that's a pretty good start.

 

[Craig 85]

I've done two 1/2 ton to 3/4 axle swaps. I've done a 14 bolt FF in one and a SF in the other. I agree the CUCV will give you 4.56's with a Dana 60 front with a 14 bolt FF in the rear with a Detroit locker, but the rear will need the spring perches and shock mounts modified. Also one of the spring plates on the front axle is different on a D60 vs the Dana 44 and GM 10 Bolt.

The direct bolt in for the rear is from a 3/4 ton, but most are 3.73 or 4.10's. The 14 bolt SF rear end has a longer snout and will require you to shorten your driveshaft. You probably won't need to modify the drive shaft if you use the 14B FF. The combo rear u-joint is Spicer 1310-1350 Part# 5-460X or O’Reilly’s – Precision U-joint Part# 348
(3.219 / 1.062 to 3.625 / 1.188). You will need larger U-bolts for the larger diameter axle tubes and new spring retainer plates.

The 3/4 ton front axle is a Dana 44 (probably has bolt on hubs) or the GM 10 bolt. It's the same axle you already have except it has 8 lugs. If you have part time hubs currently, they will fit the 3/4 ton 10 bolt. The lifted steering arms are the same 1/2 to 3/4 ton, but not on the 1-ton D60.

You will want to use the master cylinder from the same year 3/4 ton as your truck. The reservoirs are reversed. You just have to swap the lines.

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[Grit dog]

^Well that sums it up pretty thoroughly!
Nice work Craig.

 

[John-Ryan]

I was gonna chime in since I have a swapped Burb but these boys took care of you 100%! Great job fellas
@Vbb199
@Craig 85

 

[Woody Burban]

Thanks boys, I’m gonna have to print those notes and put em next to my recliner and a copy in the barn.
Woody

 

[Woody Burban]

Trucks in the shop, getting a little TLC from a good TBI emissions guy.
Then I’m thinking about these to purchase for the summer sand blasting and painting. Not sure if m1008 or M1028 would be an easier bolt in for a suburban.
Mounting the 12K winch in the bumper this weekend and put a 6K on the bumper last week.

 

[Craig 85]

Not sure if m1008 or M1028 would be an easier bolt in for a suburban.

The chassis cab axle is narrower and I don't think it will even fit between your springs. Here's a shot of the rear end on my SRW K30. You can see the shocks are opposite of yours and on the inside of the frame, but if you didn't know, C/K 30 trucks have the springs inboard of 1/2 and 3/4 tons (narrower spring hangers). One benefit of going with 1-ton axles is you get 13" x 3.5" rear drums. 3/4 tons are 13" x 3".

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[Strick]

One thing to consider is that the U-Bolt/Sway Bar Mounting pad is different on the Dana 60 passenger side as well. These can be difficult to find but sourced in the aftermarket. If you score a 60 see if the mounting pad comes with it. The CUCV shock and spring pads on the rear 14FF will also be in a different spot than the 1/2 ton trucks. This was mentioned a couple times in the earlier replies.
If you find some 20 series (10 bolt front/14FF rear) then these axles should be a roughly cut and dry swap into the 1/2 ton Sub. I did one of these a few years ago on my son's '91 without any issues. Good luck with your conversion and happy hunting.

Strickland