Need HELP

[rusted nuts]

The big reason My square body got put on the back burner is be cause both front and rear differentials have gotten a lot of condensation in them. I have a pinion seal leaking in the rear and axle seal leaking in the front. I pulled the covers off both ft and rear and both have milky brown lube in them also a lot of rust and grit, Only way I know to clean them is to remove and wash every gear, bearing, bolt and all new seals also I would have to clean the housing somehow. A lot of work for a old fart... Anyone know of a better, way?? I hate Pa. weather

 

[Girth]

The "fix" would be as you said, complete tear down and overhaul. Or... depending on how you use it, maybe just hope for the best? Get it inside, drained, wipe out what you can, let it dry out, refill with fresh oil and just run it. After running it a short while, drain it/refill again. You don't want all the crud just running in suspension. Your bearings might not be long for this world..... but I'd bet it'll keep going for some time. Just think.... some people never bother looking at their differentials. lol

This was the AMC20 in a new to me CJ. It's an "around town" toy. Do I think it'll live forever? No.... but still going. Reminds me.... need to flush it again before this Summer.

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[rusted nuts]

Well that pic looks just like mine, Bet since I'm 69 years myself spraying and wiping it out Might be the way to go... Thanks.

 

[SirRobyn0]

@rusted nuts Well I guess it depends on how bad it is, but if it's not terrible with the rust, I'd hose down everything I could with brake clean to get it as clean as possible, dry it out, put the cover on, fill it, drive it and see what happens. If it's mostly just surface rust my bet is it would be fine. Just like @Girth said. Run it.

 

[Girth]

Well that pic looks just like mine, Bet since I'm 69 years myself spraying and wiping it out Might be the way to go... Thanks.

I wiped out what I could, after cleaning up the mating surface for the gasket/cover, making sure I got all the loose crud out. Put some light oil in a squirt bottle to flush all the areas I couldn't reach, and let it drip overnight in the garage. Looked a LOT better in the morning, besides the rust on the ring gear and other parts, where it wasn't submerged in oil. A little run time and another oil change to get out anything that shook loose..... good enough for my uses. The Heep is not a highway or high miles rig though, so I'm not too worried. If the worst happens.... well, new axle time and I'll deal with it then. In reality, it's probably easier and cheaper to do an axle swap with a used axle, unless you have the tools, knowhow, and motivation to rebuild it. I just turned 40 this week.... but believe me, I get it.

I think in your worst case... a little accelrated wear on the gear surfaces, or WORST case.... a bearing eats itself down the road. More frequent oil changes might be a good idea, and a regular drive to warm it up and cook any moisture out. Make sure your vents are intact and not plugged.


I'm sure you can image the sinking feeling (and choice words) I had when I started loosening the cover. Hahaha That's life though, and unless she's a high dollar rig or something very special, "good enough" is often good enough, at least in my book.

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[rusted nuts]

Yeah I bout chit myself when I pulled the cover. I;m gona do what You did, I;m afraid any used parts around here would be the same.

 

[SirRobyn0]

@rusted nuts & @Girth I was going to say this earlier, but got called away to tend to something on the farm.

We live not far from the Snoqualmie River, while we are at a high enough elevation that we do not need to worry about getting flooded at the farm we do have to worry about getting cut off from the rest of the world from time to time. I've dealt with vehicles at the shop that have had their axles swamped, and I've had it happen in my Dakota once, but not at all recently. Generally what happens is the vehicle is driven though water deep enough and when all that cold water hits the diff, it cools the fluid it contracts and draws in whatever is at the other end of the breather. So you can bet all my breathers are routed way up high to reduce this risk. I'm not saying that is or isn't what happened to either of your vehicles just relaying my experience. Anyhow if drained, rinsed out with cleaner or oil and filled back up they are fine as long as it's done reasonably soon after it happens.