My 1984 K5 Plow Teeruk 6.2 Rear Diffy Is Bad...

[DoubleDingo]

I never opened mine in the 10 or so years I've owned it

Did that with a Dana 60 I bought in 91. Ran it in my daily from 1991 to 2005. No issues. Never checked fluid levels, changed fluid. Nothing but drum and shoe change in 93. Got lucky

 

[PrairieDrifter]

I never opened mine in the 10 or so years I've owned it

I guess that's what I get for changing the fluid

 

[CORVAIRWILD]

In my experience, most American differentials were somewhat overbuilt, obviously the GM 8.5 less than others in lite truck applications. but I've only seen them break, not wear out

 

[CORVAIRWILD]

So with about a foot of snow coming today, I lay under my truck at 9 last night, and started putting in my Lunchbox Locker, and it was really simple and straightforward, until I realized that I hadn't installed the c-locks to retain the axles. And 2 hours later, I walked away with no Spartan Locker installed, there's no way that I can see how the C Locks can be installed, and directions in the box don't address it whatsoever. They don't discuss the axles at all in fact!

I know C Lock eliminator kits exist, and their advantage.

My fone had 2% battery, so it wouldn't record... I'll watch a ytube video, I must be missing something...

In the meantime, I'm watching the little hairy woodpecker at my suet feeder... and a red cardinal just visited...

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[HotRodPC]

You probably didn't need to pull it out since the C clips are just about the last step before putting in your center pin.

 

[CORVAIRWILD]

HotRodPC, I didn't pull the carrier, but I did install 1C lock, but there's no recess. In fact the sleeve has a raised ring, and if you flip the sleeve over, then there's no space for the pin to run through between the axles. I was there for two hours looking at it, trying different ways of orienting things. And the instruction show the way it's supposed to be installed, there's just absolutely no way in hell to put in the C lock, And if you do put one C lock in, and there's no room to put the other one in because the pieces are touching.

I don't get it!

 

[HotRodPC]

Is it possible you've pulled the spring loaded alignment pins to early? You don't pull those holding the locker system together, put your C Clips in FIRST, prying the locker unit to one side, then the other, THEN pull the alignment pins and allow the locker to spread apart.

Hopefully this helps.

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[CORVAIRWILD]

Nope, I didn't pull the springs too soon. It's just the best job to do on a bench, or standing up, with the vehicle on a hoist, leaning on your elbow and getting an edema, or bumping your head on the skid plate of my fuel tank. Freezing on the ground is not the best way to do this.

It's important to put grease on the two discs to hold them from falling off the axle, and the whole procedure is very tedious. The only real problem I had once I figured it out, was it I had to hammer the separating pin in, and I mean Hammer Hammer Hammer!!!

I checked my alignment as best I could for the retaining bolt, and using a drift, I chipped a small piece off the hole of the cross pin. Then the retaining bolt wouldn't go in all the way, and I was afraid I would break it and therefore never be able to service the differential. So I ground off some of the material on the bolt that goes through the pin, and I was able to set it fully, once I put some Loctite on the threads.

And I filled it up with diff oil, positraction lubricant is not required as there are no clutch plates, and it took it for a drive, and the difference is like night and day!!!

It's like driving the vehicle in 4-wheel drive, but only in positraction rwd. I plowed for an hour, and it's an unbelievable difference, and I drove 5 miles, and there's no noticeable ratcheting or clicking around corners. I am more than impressed!!!

And when I did run over a snowbank, and got stuck, (my driveway is slightly uphill when I backup), I put it in 4-wheel drive to better distribute the load away from the front axles, which are definitely the weak point in these trucks.

The tires on this truck are over 10 years old, and they were never that great in the first place, but they were basically free.

And I always thought that I could really use some studded ice radials, but now with this new Locker, it's like driving a different truck.

I always always always had to put it in 4-wheel drive even to get up my driveway on ice, without even plowing, it just had no traction at all, and I have about a thousand pounds of salt in the back compartment.

A couple videos are up on YouTube, Here's the link...

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[CORVAIRWILD]

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And I watched the ring and pinion video. The guys doing it on the bench where you've got every advantage in the world. Doing this thing lying on your back, especially when the heat in my shop of course rises to my high ceiling, is very difficult.

Its tedious, and you'll need two little telescoping magnets to jiggle things around, and a variety of screwdrivers, and hammers, and a way to hold up your trouble light because there's no place to clip it. I used a magnetic one that went dead in 2 hours etc etc etc...

 

[78C10BigTen]

Got me thinkin i may do one of these next time

 

[Poppy 87]

Good to see you got it on the road again. What's the $$ difference between the Spartan unit and a limited-slip carrier? I'm going to change gears in my truck

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

 

[HotRodPC]

Good to see you got it on the road again. What's the $$ difference between the Spartan unit and a limited-slip carrier? I'm going to change gears in my truck

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The difference is about $200-$300 different to buy the LSD carrier unit. Also obviously requires resetting up the ring and pinion and may as well do all the seals at the same time and new carrier bearings so add anothere $150 or so for that kit.

 

[HotRodPC]

Nope, I didn't pull the springs too soon. It's just the best job to do on a bench, or standing up, with the vehicle on a hoist, leaning on your elbow and getting an edema, or bumping your head on the skid plate of my fuel tank. Freezing on the ground is not the best way to do this.

It's important to put grease on the two discs to hold them from falling off the axle, and the whole procedure is very tedious. The only real problem I had once I figured it out, was it I had to hammer the separating pin in, and I mean Hammer Hammer Hammer!!!

I checked my alignment as best I could for the retaining bolt, and using a drift, I chipped a small piece off the hole of the cross pin. Then the retaining bolt wouldn't go in all the way, and I was afraid I would break it and therefore never be able to service the differential. So I ground off some of the material on the bolt that goes through the pin, and I was able to set it fully, once I put some Loctite on the threads.

And I filled it up with diff oil, positraction lubricant is not required as there are no clutch plates, and it took it for a drive, and the difference is like night and day!!!

It's like driving the vehicle in 4-wheel drive, but only in positraction rwd. I plowed for an hour, and it's an unbelievable difference, and I drove 5 miles, and there's no noticeable ratcheting or clicking around corners. I am more than impressed!!!

And when I did run over a snowbank, and got stuck, (my driveway is slightly uphill when I backup), I put it in 4-wheel drive to better distribute the load away from the front axles, which are definitely the weak point in these trucks.

The tires on this truck are over 10 years old, and they were never that great in the first place, but they were basically free.

And I always thought that I could really use some studded ice radials, but now with this new Locker, it's like driving a different truck.

I always always always had to put it in 4-wheel drive even to get up my driveway on ice, without even plowing, it just had no traction at all, and I have about a thousand pounds of salt in the back compartment.

A couple videos are up on YouTube, Here's the link...

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

I kinda TOADJA that's what you'd get as far as the difference with the locker in the rear. You're not likely to hear any ratcheting driving on slick surface. Even water on a warmer day, the tires will just make up the difference and slide a little bit. You only hear the ratcheting when the locker needs to let go of one of the axles. You'll notice it on warm dry pavement. Glad you went the extra mile and did what was best for your application and the use of that rig. Great Choice for sure. Being cheaper than a whole carrier unit, not having to reset the R&P and back in business. I love the lunchbox for just this purpose. Then when time comes when you do set it back up with all new seals and bearings, you still have the unit to put back in it.

Orrrrr, since you have a 10 bolt in the front too, you could always put locker or LSD in the rear end and them put that locker in your front axle. Now do keep in mind, Limited slip is best in the front for torque steer and tire scrub reasons. That is only a problem if both front wheels are getting traction. I'd say for driving on snow and ice doing plowing, go for it. The weight of the plow on the front is going to help with that issue. In a dry condition you could always just lock in 1 front wheel and have a true 3 wheel drive and not have the torque steer problem. If you get into a situation, pushing heavy snow on wet pavement for example, them locke'm both in and have a true 4 wheel drive. All 4 wheels will getting power that way.

 

[CORVAIRWILD]

I plowed again for a couple of hours today, and I'm just in love with this Locker. I still haven't noticed any side effects, and the roads are getting dry. I'm definitely going to put one in my '

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95 Suburban 2500 6.5 diesel. Plus that thing won't engage 4 wheel drive, it keeps blowing the fuse, and I spent several hours poking around, and I haven't got a clue what's wrong