Mutha trucking Vintage Air

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

MikeB

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 4, 2014
Posts
1,775
Reaction score
1,004
Location
North Texas
First Name
Mike
Truck Year
1969
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
355
Start video at 10:45 to see control panel installation.

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media
 

eskimomann209

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2019
Posts
1,849
Reaction score
2,005
Location
Modesto
First Name
Marcus
Truck Year
1973
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
5.3
Start video at 10:45 to see control panel installation.

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media
LOL they said. This one fits like ****
Let’s use this style instead and tell the guys it’s custom!
 

Donald

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 24, 2018
Posts
75
Reaction score
168
Location
Loris SC.
First Name
Don
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
GMC 1500
Engine Size
350 / 290
Marcus how long did it take to order and receive your a/c unit . I ordered one about 12 days ago , they said it would take 6-7 weeks to get mine .
 

eskimomann209

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2019
Posts
1,849
Reaction score
2,005
Location
Modesto
First Name
Marcus
Truck Year
1973
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
5.3
Marcus how long did it take to order and receive your a/c unit . I ordered one about 12 days ago , they said it would take 6-7 weeks to get mine .
Hey brother. It took about a month. they beat the estimated arrival date but took a month from order date to door.
 

eskimomann209

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2019
Posts
1,849
Reaction score
2,005
Location
Modesto
First Name
Marcus
Truck Year
1973
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
5.3
Kinda late on the thought .. was adding coolant to the truck and realized... There’s no way to service the heater core!?
Awww **** me.

You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach
 

eskimomann209

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2019
Posts
1,849
Reaction score
2,005
Location
Modesto
First Name
Marcus
Truck Year
1973
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
5.3
Had another question for the AC people’s out there.
High mount VS low mount compressors.
All the trucks have the low mount compressors but I’m being told it’s a terrible idea to mount em low.
Is it really that bad? Does the compressor die faster?
I’d like to mount it low if I can... but will I lose efficiency?
 

hoagster

Full Access Member
Joined
May 16, 2017
Posts
1,392
Reaction score
3,436
Location
California
First Name
Mike
Truck Year
1973, 2000
Truck Model
K10, 1500
Engine Size
5.3l
If it will fit down low you can find brackets everywhere cheap. I have a K-10 and I couldn't drop my engine in without removing the compressor.
 

bluex

Full Access Member
Joined
May 9, 2013
Posts
1,971
Reaction score
2,576
Location
Spartanburg SC
First Name
Paul
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
C15
Engine Size
350
Had another question for the AC people’s out there.
High mount VS low mount compressors.
All the trucks have the low mount compressors but I’m being told it’s a terrible idea to mount em low.
Is it really that bad? Does the compressor die faster?
I’d like to mount it low if I can... but will I lose efficiency?

Low mount is bad because liquid refrigerant can run back down the hoses into the compressor. Then the next time you turn it on it breaks the reeds in the compressor an kills it. It's a common issue in gmt800 suburbans an tahoe with rear air. Mainly if you run the front without also running the rear. They make a special timed relay to pulse the compressor anytime it turns on to help purge any liquid out an not damage the compressors...
 

eskimomann209

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2019
Posts
1,849
Reaction score
2,005
Location
Modesto
First Name
Marcus
Truck Year
1973
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
5.3
If it will fit down low you can find brackets everywhere cheap. I have a K-10 and I couldn't drop my engine in without removing the compressor.
You mounted yours low then?


Low mount is bad because liquid refrigerant can run back down the hoses into the compressor. Then the next time you turn it on it breaks the reeds in the compressor an kills it. It's a common issue in gmt800 suburbans an tahoe with rear air. Mainly if you run the front without also running the rear. They make a special timed relay to pulse the compressor anytime it turns on to help purge any liquid out an not damage the compressors...
anything special about this relay?
Can I just wire it like I would any relay?

I guess I could look for one, but if you have a trusted one I’d be interested in running it. Mines just a little single cab but I’m willing to make sure my compressor doesn’t die and trash my system.

I’m also kicking around the big sanden or the mini one. 507 vs sd7? I think
Either way, the two common ones. Does anyone know if the mini will be enough to keep the cab chili?
It’s all insulated but I like to be freezing in there.
 

idahovette

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2016
Posts
7,269
Reaction score
15,872
Location
Weiser Idaho
First Name
Perry
Truck Year
1975-1979
Truck Model
K20-K10
Engine Size
350
I replaced the old A6 in my 66 Nova SS clone with a Sanden 508? The tech at Vintage told me the old evap system wasn't "hi tech" enough and I should go with the 7 cylinder or whatever compressor. I asked him if the Sanden was better than the A6, he said at least twice as good, so I told him that it should overcome my "old" evaporator's inefficiencies, plus it's not a big cabin to cool anyway.
 

bluex

Full Access Member
Joined
May 9, 2013
Posts
1,971
Reaction score
2,576
Location
Spartanburg SC
First Name
Paul
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
C15
Engine Size
350
The relay I've used on our suburbans is four seasons 36141. It's designed for them so it just plugs in line to the compressor clutch. You don't have to do any wiring. Basically when you or the a/c system request the compressor to engage, it will pulse it for a few seconds then cut it off for a few. It does that 3-4 times an then it'll run constantly like normal.

I believe the SD7 is the one we use on most LS swaps trucks. We usually do the relocation to top mount with it but it does a good job of cooling a single cab truck off.
 

hoagster

Full Access Member
Joined
May 16, 2017
Posts
1,392
Reaction score
3,436
Location
California
First Name
Mike
Truck Year
1973, 2000
Truck Model
K10, 1500
Engine Size
5.3l
You mounted yours low then?



anything special about this relay?
Can I just wire it like I would any relay?

I guess I could look for one, but if you have a trusted one I’d be interested in running it. Mines just a little single cab but I’m willing to make sure my compressor doesn’t die and trash my system.

I’m also kicking around the big sanden or the mini one. 507 vs sd7? I think
Either way, the two common ones. Does anyone know if the mini will be enough to keep the cab chili?
It’s all insulated but I like to be freezing in there.

It wouldn't fit between the frame rails low. But my truck is a 4wd yours is 2wd. Here's a pic to show you were mine will go, thats a holley upper mount.

You must be registered for see images attach
 

SquareRoot

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2017
Posts
4,192
Reaction score
8,030
Location
Arizona
First Name
Mike
Truck Year
85
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
350
I put the VA Surefit in my 85 a year ago. A few notes I recall as I read thru this thread.

Defrost grill- The factory uses plastic ones that pop in from the top as you probably know. I unknowingly dropped an electrical connector down my driver side during install and it rattled like crazy whenever the defrost was on. Then one day, the planets all aligned and it shot out the vent and laid on top of my dash cover! Fixed that issue lol.

When you get the condenser kit for under the hood it wont be exactly plug and play either. Hoses will need tweeked and mounting the condensor is a little tricky. Plan on removing the radiator during install to make your life easier. The heater hose will have a solenoid to completely shut off coolant flow when the AC is on. No big deal unless your using the heater core as your bypass if you have vortec heads.

I ended up drilling out the rivets to open up the AC control panel and laying in a piece of blue window tint so the backlighting would match the rest of my interior lighting.

With the sanden compressor, I am quite happy with the overall performance. And that's from someone who drives it in 120 degree summer temps. Just as important is quality window tint. This will make a huge difference in how your AC performs.

Good luck.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
44,162
Posts
950,645
Members
36,276
Latest member
2manysquares2care
Top