Might be a long shot, but...

[87ChevyR10]

I'm replacing tie-rods tomorrow. I tightened up steering box last weekend and the front tires hunt around now (it's more noticeable than before). So, I am wondering if someone with an aligned front-end could provide measurements. Basically from the edge of adjustment sleeve to the ends of the tie-rod.

If not, I'll just set the new ones up like the old ones and go get it aligned. Or, I may try to do it myself via youtube videos.

Thanks in advance!

 

[74 Shortbed]

May have toe out?, jack up each wheel and rotate the tire and mark a line down the center of each tire, measure from line to line front and back should be about a 1/16" less in the front, you may need more Caster too, Caster forces the vehicle to go straight, if you have negative Caster it will want to wander.

 

[87ChevyR10]

Ok, I know tie tod replacement is not that big of a deal. Called 2 shops just to see what it cost and WOW! Over $400 for one and $100 less at the other.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

It could

Ok, I know tie tod replacement is not that big of a deal. Called 2 shops just to see what it cost and WOW! Over $400 for one and $100 less at the other.

holy hell are they replacing the drag link and idler arm too? That's regoddamndiculous!!

 

[74 Shortbed]

I'm in the wrong business, lol.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

I'm in the wrong business, lol.

You and me both brother!!

 

[Honky Kong jr]

How tight did you make that steering box that will do some weird **** if it over tight like get real notchy and will seem like it's wondering and it's accually you fighting it.

 

[87ChevyR10]

Glad I raised the front end first. There is zero play in the tires. Passenger side has a little bearing play. But no tierod play. Gonna go get it aligned.

 

[87ChevyR10]

Just got back and shop wont work in it. They say the lower control arm on driver side has been poorly welded and it falls about half an inch when lifted. So, guess I get to locate lower control arns, yeah.....

 

[87ChevyR10]

Found parts on LMC. How difficult is it to replace all the a-arms? I might as well do all since they come with ball joints preinstalled, too.

Oh, the guy at this shop also told me he wouldn't replace anything that involved removing the spring. Says it's too dangerous.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

Found parts on LMC. How difficult is it to replace all the a-arms? I might as well do all since they come with ball joints preinstalled, too.

Oh, the guy at this shop also told me he wouldn't replace anything that involved removing the spring. Says it's too dangerous.

What a ****....(the guy)....they aren't hard just gotta be mindful of the spring. You can put an internal spring compressor on the spring or use the jack method either work with the compressor method "safer".

 

[87ChevyR10]

What a ****....(the guy)....they aren't hard just gotta be mindful of the spring. You can put an internal spring compressor on the spring or use the jack method either work with the compressor method "safer".

What about replacing the actual control arm? Is this something I could do in a weekend or would I need to take a week off from work? I have some tools, but nothing specific for suspension work.

Also, I've been driving the truck like this for 4 years and the shop guy made it sound like I shouldn't drive it all until it's fixed. Going out of town with it tomorrow.

EDIT: I'm looking LMC parts diagrams and it looks like the new control arms come with their shafts pre-installed, too. Is this correct? Looking at the shaft itself, I can't see how it's come off anyways.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

What about replacing the actual control arm? Is this something I could do in a weekend or would I need to take a week off from work? I have some tools, but nothing specific for suspension work.

Also, I've been driving the truck like this for 4 years and the shop guy made it sound like I shouldn't drive it all until it's fixed. Going out of town with it tomorrow.

EDIT: I'm looking LMC parts diaphragms and it looks like the new control arms come with their shafts pre-installed, too. Is this correct? Looking at the shaft itself, I can't see how it's come off anyways.

Coming with the shafts is a big plus. Do one side (the worst) one weekend and the other the next. The shaft and pressing the bushings over it is the worst part but the engine done that for you pretty much remove and replace.

 

[87ChevyR10]

Coming with the shafts is a big plus. Do one side (the worst) one weekend and the other the next. The shaft and pressing the bushings over it is the worst part but the engine done that for you pretty much remove and replace.

Will I need anything besides basic tools and the spring compressor?

Also, I just called LMC and they confirmed that the a-arms come with everything installed. So, that'll make things easier.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

Will I need anything besides basic tools and the spring compressor?

Also, I just called LMC and they confirmed that the a-arms come with everything installed. So, that'll make things easier.

A pickle fork to pop the ball joints. You can probably rent the compressor and a fork. Be mindful of the location and amount of shims at the cross shaft.